Looking for ideas on broken stud removal

[Paul Fithian]

Check https://opeforum.com/threads/how-to...-flush-with-the-crankcase.29486/#post-1501377

 

[av8or3]

I really appreciate everybody’s input. Before asking for advice I thought about locking it in our end mill and using a small (1/4”) new 4-flute carbide, level the area. Then using the same machine, find center and drill it out. The thing is hard as diamonds though, so I did not do it. I have a talented welder at work, who when asked can do anything. We both liked Shane’s idea with the washer and nut and after discussing it some cause he has some ideas of his own, it is sitting on his bench waiting until he can devote some serious time to it. I expect to prevail, I just have to wait for Brad to finish a project he’s on at work. I will let you all know how it goes.

 

[Wilhelm]

I have removed broken taps:
- at work, smaller OD Solid-Carbide drill bit than what the threads specs ask for, active fluid cooling, high rpms & snail slow feeds
- at home, freehand, small OD diamond laced bur in a straight shaft grinder (Dremel) and ground it out. It is slow and tedious.

In both cases once the taps core is removed the flutes just fall out or need a little persuasion with a pick.

I also do broken bolts at work like this and the threading usually comes out in two pieces looking like coiled wire.

DISCLAIMER:
In my case I am talking steel stuck in steel.

With a valuable saw cylinder I would most likely go the diamond laced bur route.

Good luck!

 

[1Chance]

If you know someone with an induction heater, this would be the perfect application. The steel bolt will heat and the non magnetic aluminum will not. Dont' go crazy as you may crack the aluminum. Do a couple heat cycles while applying your favorite penetrant and rapidly cool the bolt (keyboard cleaner works great). You should be able to use an easy out once the corrosion bond is broken.