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Looking for ideas on broken stud removal

av8or3

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What you are looking at is an exhaust stud broken off below the surface in an otherwise serviceable 66mm 090 cylinder. How would you remove it?
 

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Jim, My suggestion is drill out to maximum size without disturbing threads. Very small lengthwise ball burr straight line of remaining piece lodged. Bring out with gouge or pick. Remainder of thread should stay intact if you lucky sir.
 

heimannm

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I have had some success using a small end mill to create a flat surface, then drilling the broken bolt/stud enough to get and easy out started. Heat and penetrating oil are useful as well.

If they are really hard, a carbide burr may be required.

Mark
 

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View attachment 486628
What you are looking at is an exhaust stud broken off below the surface in an otherwise serviceable 66mm 090 cylinder. How would you remove it?
I’ve had good luck with making a good center point with a good center punch and/or a small burr. Then, carefully drill out the center with a small, 1/16” or 3/32” carbide bit. Then, step up a couple sizes, enough for a small easy-out.

That said, I would first soak that thing in PB-Blaster overnight. Looks like a fair amount of corrosion there.
 

SimonHS

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Reverse drill bits and easy outs…

This.

Deep centre punch mark on the stud. Don't try a handheld drill. Clamp the head on a drill press. Run the drill in reverse with a left-hand drill bit. Sometimes the drill bit will grab enough to rotate the stud out. If not an easy-out will do the job.
 

EFSM

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Nothing to add to the removal suggestions. I'm subbing to the thread. Don't stress too much about wrecking the threads, a Time-Sert will save the day (quite easily, I might add).
And they will make the threads significantly stronger.
 

dave b

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spent many years working in water treatmeant plants as a industrial mechanic/machinist/welder.3 waste water plants and 1 potable water plant that had a small hydroelectric facility that made power to run that plant.waste water plants have issues with nuts and bolts rusting together or bolts rusted solid in their threaded blind holes.steel bolt in a aluminum head? if so electrolysis.you might try this technique that we used all the time when faced with this issue. put a small tip on a ox-acetelyne torch and get a cup of water handy.heat the top of the stud untill its red hot then dump the cup of water on top of it. let it cool down then do it again. warm the head up around 150 degrees and spray pb blaster or liquid kroil ( we kept a lot of it in stock at the plant) into hole and let it sit for awhile.what you are doing with this process is heat shrinking.once heated up to red hot then hit with cold water the stud contracts and breaks the rust bond as well as reduces diameter a small amount which relieves the torque applied to the threads as well.lots of times the fasteners were now easily removable sometimes by hand. a tig welder is useful in a situation like this also.one of the guys in our maintenance dept shared this trick with us.he learned it from a navy machinist who dealt with stuff like this on ships that spent all their time in salt water.once you break the corrosion bond in that blind hole it should come out easily with a easy out.you want the smallest torch tip you have and place the tip of the heat cone on center of stud only. if you get carried away with heat you could damage your cylinder head.used this technique many times in 40 years as well as shared it with other people.it works very well. if you can't get it to break free a vertical milling machine or a quality drill press would be my personal plan b if that was my cylinder head.have lurked on this website for awhile and have learned a lot from every one. my time to give back and help out.i live in pine grove calif.if i lived closer to you i would help you remove this.i do own a large complete hobby machine shop on my property.all my neighbors have now figured out how handy it is to have access to my shop. the only thing i charge is a cup of coffee.largest lathe i own swings 26" in diameter.as well as a horizontal boring mill. hope this helps you out !!!! and thanks again to all the members of OPE who have shared their knowledge on this website and taught me a lot of stuff about chainsaws, chain sharpening, chainsaw milling.
 

pbillyi69

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spent many years working in water treatmeant plants as a industrial mechanic/machinist/welder.3 waste water plants and 1 potable water plant that had a small hydroelectric facility that made power to run that plant.waste water plants have issues with nuts and bolts rusting together or bolts rusted solid in their threaded blind holes.steel bolt in a aluminum head? if so electrolysis.you might try this technique that we used all the time when faced with this issue. put a small tip on a ox-acetelyne torch and get a cup of water handy.heat the top of the stud untill its red hot then dump the cup of water on top of it. let it cool down then do it again. warm the head up around 150 degrees and spray pb blaster or liquid kroil ( we kept a lot of it in stock at the plant) into hole and let it sit for awhile.what you are doing with this process is heat shrinking.once heated up to red hot then hit with cold water the stud contracts and breaks the rust bond as well as reduces diameter a small amount which relieves the torque applied to the threads as well.lots of times the fasteners were now easily removable sometimes by hand. a tig welder is useful in a situation like this also.one of the guys in our maintenance dept shared this trick with us.he learned it from a navy machinist who dealt with stuff like this on ships that spent all their time in salt water.once you break the corrosion bond in that blind hole it should come out easily with a easy out.you want the smallest torch tip you have and place the tip of the heat cone on center of stud only. if you get carried away with heat you could damage your cylinder head.used this technique many times in 40 years as well as shared it with other people.it works very well. if you can't get it to break free a vertical milling machine or a quality drill press would be my personal plan b if that was my cylinder head.have lurked on this website for awhile and have learned a lot from every one. my time to give back and help out.i live in pine grove calif.if i lived closer to you i would help you remove this.i do own a large complete hobby machine shop on my property.all my neighbors have now figured out how handy it is to have access to my shop. the only thing i charge is a cup of coffee.largest lathe i own swings 26" in diameter.as well as a horizontal boring mill. hope this helps you out !!!! and thanks again to all the members of OPE who have shared their knowledge on this website and taught me a lot of stuff about chainsaws, chain sharpening, chainsaw milling.
welcome.
 

dangerousatom

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Another variation on the Heat-N-Drill technique.

Find your smallest drill bit 1/16th or under and start the drill on the edge of the threads. The bit will naturally want to go into the aluminum but will clip the stud threads and get into the corrosion. Heat it up like others have mentioned, but cool it down with a can of dusting/compressed air held upside down. After a few rounds of heat cycling fill the hole with a good penetrating oil or a mix of acetone & ATF and give it a few hours and maybe apply oil again. Then either try welding another slightly smaller bolt to the stud to turn and extract or center drill it and ez-out it.

good luck n keep us posted!
.
.
 

Al Smith

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Took me a while to find it, if my IPL is correct those are M6 x 1.0 studs .Using a drillpress and trying to get in the center of the broken stud starting with a small drill bit followed by slightly increasing the size of hole you might be able to follow it up with an end mill .Then using a heat gun to warm the flange to increase the hole size because aluminum will expand faster than the steel of the broken stud .You might be able to snatch it out with an easyout .If not pickle it in a bucket of kerosene for a week and try it again .When you get it out chase the threads with a spiral point tap ,two flute .
 

Al Smith

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To follow up on this what you have is galvanic reaction between dissimular metals .In other words it gets stuck.On reassembley you might think of using some type of anti sieze product such as Kopper Coat or Never Seeze .A few years ago after drilling the heads off of 5/8 inch grade 8 cap screws for the second time which held the knives on a chipper which drove me nuts .I gave my bud who owns a tree serviceI I gave him a can of Never Seeze .Try drilling the heads off a grade 8 cap screw some time,it takes carbide.If you know better you do better .
 
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