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Log Splitter Leaks

Tim

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Hello, I recently bought this log splitter and it starts fine and splits well but leaks hydraulic fluid when I use it. It appears to leak at the seal and also at the cap that the seal is in. The cap almost looks like a giant hex nut but I tried tightening it and it just turns without tightening. It's my first log splitter and I've never worked on one before. Does anyone recognize this type of cylinder and are there seal kits to fix it or can it be replaced easy enough? I see lots of cylinders online but nothing identical. The push block is welded on the rod so I would probably have to get it off somehow to put on a new cylinder. I believe the cylinder is 4" bore by 24" reach. It measures 4-1/2" outside diameter. Any help would be appreciated. I want to fix the leak by spending as little as necessary but I'll replace the cylinder if I have to. I can take more pictures if it would help.

Thanks, Tim


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Coupe

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Looking at it you will have to take ram completely off get the big nut on the end of ram off them pull the speer completely
out. You should be able to get a kit for it but if not go to any engineering shop or someone who stocks them and get seals and what ever is needed. If it was me I would replace all the seals in it as if one has failed thee other ones are probably getting a bit due to be done too.
Depending what the make up is at the other end but you will not know till you have pulled the spear out that's where you will start.
Lay everything out on your bench and put it back togeather the way you took it apart.
Hope this helps.
 

Stem

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looks like the wiper seal & gland seals are toast. NAPA might have a seal kit if you can find part numbers. otherwise look online or take it to a hydraulic shop.
 
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Lnk

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I would also assume the pistons is removable once it is pulled out of the cylinder. Should not have to cut the push plate off.
 

Moparmyway

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Hello, I recently bought this log splitter and it starts fine and splits well but leaks hydraulic fluid when I use it. It appears to leak at the seal and also at the cap that the seal is in. The cap almost looks like a giant hex nut but I tried tightening it and it just turns without tightening. It's my first log splitter and I've never worked on one before. Does anyone recognize this type of cylinder and are there seal kits to fix it or can it be replaced easy enough? I see lots of cylinders online but nothing identical. The push block is welded on the rod so I would probably have to get it off somehow to put on a new cylinder. I believe the cylinder is 4" bore by 24" reach. It measures 4-1/2" outside diameter. Any help would be appreciated. I want to fix the leak by spending as little as necessary but I'll replace the cylinder if I have to. I can take more pictures if it would help.

Thanks, Tim


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I’ve got a welder, so I’d clean up the welded end, cut off the bent foot and re-pack that cylinder as suggested. Then weld (or not) whatever you want to the end and make it work for you. I’d probably weld up a sled that the shaft fits snugly into, (keep it lightly greased) and then this sled can float or ride down the length of the ram.

Either way, to rebuild or repack that cylinder, that welded end will probably have to be cut off
 
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Shane¹

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Maybe you will get lucky and the inner packing will be held on with a nut
 
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Al Smith

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It's most likely the rod end seal but it's on the return stroke that really sees the less pressure .Try to not to two block it on the return stroke .In other words to not bottom out the cylinder and thus raise the pressure . If that valve is a detent return lower the kick off pressure .
That thing looks like a home made fix with a welded push plate .Most likely the cylinder was one threaded for a bolt .However the only way to be certain is to cut the push plate loose .
 
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FTG-05

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I had this same problem with 22 ton Huskee/Speeco splitter a couple years ago. There is a local guy who does hydraulic cylinder repair on the side. $130 later I was GTG.
 
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Wonkydonkey

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My internet is slow & intermittent.

That said… I’ve got a smaller mtd log splitter . Your plate n the end of the ram looks like mine (bent) however mine works fine but I will add later about mine…the dinner is cooking and I can’t be burning it 🤦‍♂️

Anyhow I think I could scrape up the link for the manuals which would help you out a bit (but it’s not that helpful, as in parts sizes , just mtd part numbers )
 
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RCBS

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Man, I never tought I'd see another 'Stinger' splitter. That's what I named my Dad's after repainting it. Good chance that unit was originally sold through JC Penny. They came with lovely updraft and constantly surging Techumseh's originally.
 

Wonkydonkey

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This is where I found my manual/ipl, although it took some trawling throu it for me.

Hopefully you can find a model number or something, ( maybe hp of engine or size of ram ?)

Or someone else (@RCBS ) could help

 

Al Smith

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MTD which is "Modern Tool and Die " made a lot of garden type tools sold under many brand names .It is or was head quartered some place in Ohio .Another is Ohio Mower but it was actually in Ky.
Most likely those old splitters became popular before companies like "Dirty Hand " came into being .What they all have in common is they grossly over rate the tonnage ratings .The problem with those wedge/knife on the end of the beam using a push plate on the cylinder is they can't be tipped up to run upright for big rounds .Just try attempting a 36" round of oak on that thing but then again it's a better option than an axe .
 

RCBS

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This is where I found my manual/ipl, although it took some trawling throu it for me.

Hopefully you can find a model number or something, ( maybe hp of engine or size of ram ?)

Or someone else (@RCBS ) could help


Unfortunately besides repainting it and replacing some hoses, I never did much work on it. Handed it off at the time to a small engine shop to try to rid it of the surging. They failed. It was sold off about 20 years ago.
 

Al Smith

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More times than not surging has two causes .An air leak around the carb or the carb sucked up some dust partly blocking the jets .Fact I've got a 23 HP Kawasaki on a zero turn mower doing that .What that is is grass that got into the gas tank and when the 6 gallon tank gets low enough it sucks up a piece of it that will go right through the fuel filter .I just keep the gas topped off because it would be a real job to remove that tank to flush it out .----lazy you know .
On a splitter it sees more idle time than it does running .As such rust ,.general crud gets into the gas tank and gets into the carb to drive you bonkers trying to figure it out .
 
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Wonkydonkey

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More times than not surging has two causes .An air leak around the carb or the carb sucked up some dust partly blocking the jets .Fact I've got a 23 HP Kawasaki on a zero turn mower doing that .What that is is grass that got into the gas tank and when the 6 gallon tank gets low enough it sucks up a piece of it that will go right through the fuel filter .I just keep the gas topped off because it would be a real job to remove that tank to flush it out .----lazy you know .
On a splitter it sees more idle time than it does running .As such rust ,.general crud gets into the gas tank and gets into the carb to drive you bonkers trying to figure it out .
I agree with your answer.. and will add to the list
an almost crapped up air filter. .that is it runs fine albeit a bit rich. Then when the engine hits a load and needs more fuel and air , then you get the surge.
The way i figure if it is the air filter or something else ? Is to just delete it & run it for a short time. But having said this. a check on the spark plug colour first also tells you it’s rich and not lean :thumbsup: So that would also help I decided which avenues to explore :tejeqteje:
 

Al Smith

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A clogged air filter could be one of the most over looked mistakes of all times .I've lost track of how many came to me for repairs that was the only thing wrong with them .
 
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