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Just say no to AM wrist pin bearings

jmssaws

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I've never used one.
I used a few when I was using a 288 piston in a 066,2 of them failed and I'm not the only one that happened to,that is the only time I've ever used one and the last time.
On a side note the 2 I had fail are the exact kind and type I'm holding in my hand above.
 

Lone Wolf

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I ran the snot out of that 066 for a short period of time.
I almost never even caught it before I put the cylinder back on.
Needless to say, I found a donor crank.
It had to leave some marks.
 

beaglebriar

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The Meteor I got from HLS came with one and the one I got from Dave didn't. But I will clarify that when I ordered the one from HLS it showed up as a line item like I ordered it just with no price next to it. And I have no idea what brand it is ether.
The meteor is just got from them included a cross wp bearing. I already had an oem bearing so it didn't get used.
 

jmssaws

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I took a 660 out of the box new that I could not get to run right and finally found the flywheel side seal had no spring from the factory.
Only leaked at high rpm.

Weird things happen sometimes
 

Dub11

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Oh for sure when I get out side and take a pic side by side Iam keeping the oem or I'll drive 20 miles to get a new one
 

Rob Stafari

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It sounds like everybody's anti aftermarket wrist pin bearings, what about the pins themselves?
 

junkman

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I use a metric chit ton of AM seals.

Never a single issue.
That would be more than an sae ton
met·ric ton
ˈmetrik ˈtən/
noun
  1. a unit of weight equal to 1,000 kilograms (2,205 lb).
  2. Reg ton is 2000 lbs
Only the Junkman would know stupid stuff like this .dot dot dot .
 

stihl saws

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It sounds like everybody's anti aftermarket wrist pin bearings, what about the pins themselves?
Every aftermarket pin I've seen seems thicker/heavier than oem, on Stihls anyways. I just can't see how adding weight to the end of a rod that's moving at 13,000rpm is a good thing.
I've never seen an a/m pin bearing I would trust.
 

BuckthornBonnie

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The meteor is just got from them included a cross wp bearing. I already had an oem bearing so it didn't get used.
Hlsupply and Weedeaterman include the needle bearing for some pistons. They're decent AM. I've used a few but am going to go back to OEM for future builds.
 

jmssaws

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Every aftermarket pin I've seen seems thicker/heavier than oem, on Stihls anyways. I just can't see how adding weight to the end of a rod that's moving at 13,000rpm is a good thing.
I've never seen an a/m pin bearing I would trust.
I use a oem stihl pin in everything I can.
There much lighter
 

Backtroller

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Is there a reason the meteor pin is shorter than the Stihl? I've noticed this on my 026, 024 and if I recall correctly, my 346. Being a little shorter does leave some side to side "slop." Does that matter?

I have used the OEM ones per the Docs recommendation on all the above saws.
 

jmssaws

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I doubt under a load the pin would wonder.
 

jacob j.

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Is there a reason the meteor pin is shorter than the Stihl? I've noticed this on my 026, 024 and if I recall correctly, my 346. Being a little shorter does leave some side to side "slop." Does that matter?

I have used the OEM ones per the Docs recommendation on all the above saws.

It's best not to leave the wrist pin any room to slide back and forth. I use OEM pins on the Meteor pistons, even if I have to use a Husqvarna pin in a piston meant for a Stihl application or vice versa.
 
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