Just got that used 330t, thing is pumping-oil while running (even w/o clutch movement) WTF?

[Cerberus]

Thing doesn't have a primer/purge-bulb either perhaps it's a silly "oils-while-on" feature? Doubting that, about to start trouble-shooting but eager for help as I only have a 24hr window (less, now!) for my cash-back return 'warranty' (pawn shop, $150, can get $$ back in 24hrs if it's faulty)

It's not leaking oil when off, and it's not losing it *that* bad IE the "bar-oil dispersal rate" is what I'd expect if & when the throttle is pegged, it's just that if I turn it on & let it idle (chain not moving one inch the entire time), it's still dripping oil :/

Have fallen in-love w/ this saw, for same-displacement it SMOKES my "tanaka" (alttthough the Tanaka has a longer bar, will be swapping those shortly ;D )

Thanks a TON for any advice on this, and anything else it may be worth looking at (330-specific stuff, am pretty sure I know all the normal/routine pre-purchase checks!)


[PS- before I go nuts, going back&forth, if someone could explain the following carb-adjustment scenario to me it'd be appreciated: When I got it, it was kinda hard to start, I turned-in Idle to increase baseline RPM and backed-out L maybe 1/3rd turn (by-ear, after changing idle) While this achieved my goal - quick throttle-response and unlimited idling-without-stalling - I encountered something I've never seen before (hell I'm almost worrying, now, that it could be a flaw with the clutch...but it takes FOREVER for the engine to "wind-down" from full-throttle, like if you were attempting to cut 10 branches as quickly as you could, this would slow you down as your saw's taking like 2X as long as usual to go go back down to Idle, have never seen this and uncertain WTH to do about it..]
[[Again thanks a TON, this was an early-purchase, had intended to get the 355t once my 32cc died but, when I saw this guy, I had to have him!! Every part I touch I am impressed with particularly the air filter arrangement!]]

 

[huskyboy]

Some saws have a full time oiler and some have a clutch driven oiler that is “off” when the chain is at a stop.

 

[cus_deluxe]

heres a pic from the IPL, appears to be a crank driven oiler, not off the clutch drum, so it would oil all the time.

 

[Cerberus]

Heh...wow I had no idea!! It also has no primer-bulb which I'd never seen (it's got 2013 on one of the emissions stickers so not that old, thought primers / chain brakes / clutch-oilers were ubiquitous long-before that!)

SOooo....I about had a heart attack when, on session #2 of going outside to tinker with the carb & try some more cuts, I couldn't get it started!!! I F'd up by going for spark before fuel --- I changed to a new spark-plug*, wrapped my tachometer on it (so I could see whether I was getting any spark, had been pulling w/o ANY reaction/start-up for like 2 minutes on a luke-warm engine), then I opened L jet ~1/3rd turn CCW then I tried to start it again....it started a champ (oh I'd also turned-in the Idle about 1/8th turn clockwise/faster, chain not moving still but close), but now I don't know whether it was the spark-plug or the carb'ss adjusttments!!!
SO dumb I cannot believe I did 2 repairs/attempts before trying either.... I can get that a ~1/3rd turn too-tight of the L jet, something set while-hot&running, turned-out to be too-low for a lukewarm/coolish startup, still surprised though....

(*Re spark-plug, thankfully I had a new one on-hand, I'd honestly decided-against buying one today because I've ruined *two* spark-plug-cable "boots" (part with coiled metal inside a 90deg rubber boot/shell, you slide it onto the end of the spark plug), I don't know what it is I try so hard and still manage to mangle them I hate the design... anyway when I pulled the plug I got witth this saw from the pawn shop & inspected it I was blown away---

That HAD to be there when I got it today, had to be that way when running earlier, right? WTH could cause that? Never seen anything like it!!

Am also a bit worried because I'd seen the different-colored-plastic of the side's handbrake-plate("clutch cover shell") that was visibly much-newer than the rest, thought "sprocket looks great air-filter assembly(soft rubber) looks great, IF it's not a replacement 14" Echo bar (and it does not seem new) then it all pointed to a saw someone owned for a while but didn't use too-much....It's easy to break a hand-brake by accident especially for ppl who aren't using them daily, but then I found a couple things that have me worrying a bit (thankfully I can still return it tomorrow if I want to -- REALLY want this guy to work-out though!!), specifically:

#1 - the "chain-catcher", that lil nub that's meant to catch a broken-chain from swinging back at you...it is heavily used, someone broke a LOT of chains on this saw (there's also a slight rattle from the clutch/clutch-drum sometimes at idle although it could be the clutch-cover just banging the clutch and I'm overranalyzing the sound ) Unsure about you guys but I never break chains, couldn't tell you last time I did & can't begin to rationalize how they had BOTH "a great sprocket like 90%+ new-looking" as well as "a chain-brake that's obviously caught a ton of broken chains"!

#2 - The body itself... Initially I thought it was just odd, poor forming of the plastic panels but now can clearly see this unit was opened and, upon reassembly, tthey didn't "seat" the top plastic shell line-up properly:



[Multiple angles^ so you can see what I mean, honestly didn't even notice it til an embarrassingly-long time of having bought this thing!]


~~~~~~~~~~~~~~



Never heard of this all-the-time oiling but had already thought "if this oils 100% of the time, I can still work with that it's a good enough saw", have to imagine the 355 is clutch-driven so Someday ;D

Fun thing is that this guy is notably more powerful than my hitachi/tanaka saw which is same displacement but very well tuned/modded and the 330 is bone-stock but still has noticeably more power in-cut, so if I understtand it correctly I'm in a good spot there as Echo's seem to gain more from mods than otther brands (on-average -- just an observational-anecdote, correction welcome

 

[countryhog]

...but it takes FOREVER for the engine to "wind-down" from full-throttle, like if you were attempting to cut 10 branches as quickly as you could, this would slow you down as your saw's taking like 2X as long as usual to go go back down to Idle, have never seen this and uncertain WTH to do about it..]...

Try turning the L screw little bit more rich (CCW). Seems counter intuitive but that can really lessen the chain stop time

 

[CR888]

An oiler that's not driven off the clutch would be a real PITA on a climbing saw, not only would you be dripping oil everywhere but you may run out of oil while climbing. Is it too late to get the 355t? Also chain catchers get messed up when chains get derailed without breaking. A pressure vac test may be a good idea if you can't tune out that transition to idle. The plug looks on the leaner side albeit its difficult to tell.