JONSERED Jonsereds

[WKEND LUMBERJAK]

Thought I should add my latest project to the proper forum. It was saved from a scrapper's load, and needed a carb and bar.
Paint and decals are all original.
.View attachment 107863
View attachment 107864

Those are the best ones.

 

[MarcS]

Helped a buddy cut some Chinese Elm yesterday with the 111s. 42” hard nose bar, skip tooth .404

First time with my 111s and 2095 side by side in big wood and the 111s is way more saw for torque-no brainer I know but didn’t think it would walk all over the 2095 so easily. Fun day.

 

[usmcbuckwild]

Hello all,

Kinda new to the saw forums (here and AS) but been around saws my entire life. Grew up running Stihls and got my first Red saw last year, a 2065 Turbo. Did a complete teardown and overhaul with OEM seals bearings, a Nikasil 372 big bore c/p with a mild DIY woods port and mm. Tried the HD12 carb, then went on to an RWJ4 from the 372 xtorq. Not sure the RWJ4 was an upgrade... Pulled a 28” skip tooth ok through green 24” white oak, but I think the RWJ4 might be too much carb. Tried to adjust the carb down but worry about it going too lean.

Suggestions?

 

[EvilRoySlade]

Did you leave the divider in the RWJ? I really think it delivers fuel best while in place but could still be too much carb for you.

 

[usmcbuckwild]

Did you leave the divider in the RWJ? I really think it delivers fuel best while in place but could still be too much carb for you.

No, I removed the divider in the carb as well as in the filter elbow.

 

[Wolverine]

Hello all, Kinda new to the saw forums (here and AS) but been around saws my entire life.

Welcome buckwild. My son has a ported Husky 365 special that has the xtorq carb on it. It's a real pain in the azz to tune on the low side (H is fine). It was explained that the L circuit barely provides enough fuel. It's like tuning on a knife edge, took a good while to get it happy. Performs awesome @ wot so it'll stay on there.

 

[usmcbuckwild]

Welcome buckwild. My son has a ported Husky 365 special that has the xtorq carb on it. It's a real pain in the azz to tune on the low side (H is fine). It was explained that the L circuit barely provides enough fuel. It's like tuning on a knife edge, took a good while to get it happy. Performs awesome @ wot so it'll stay on there.

Good to know. Any idea what the screw turns are? It runs, idles, cuts pretty good but seems to be very rich. Immediately dies if you stall it or pinch the chain. (I can’t cut with it, recent surgeries and orthopedic issues; my neighbor assists me with the cutting/tuning). With the HD12 it screamed like a banshee and I was worried it was not enough carb.

 

[Wolverine]

Sorry, no. It's at a happy spot and I dare not touch it!

 

[usmcbuckwild]

So did some more adjusting on the RWJ-4 on my 2065/372 BB hybrid franken-saw. Runs a bit better, still on the knife edge of lean: will still 4 stroke periodically in the cut but even 1/8th turn in of h will cause it to break up in the cut.

Going to touch up the chain and try again tomorrow when its not raining. I have some 21” Poplar/Tulip logs to test in as long as my neighbor isn’t busy.

 

[WKEND LUMBERJAK]

So can any one tell me the difference between a 630 and a 630 super ?

 

[taplinhill]

It all depends on when the Super was made. A late 630 and an early 630 Super are essentially the same. Late Supers had many changes the most notable being the newer chainbrake/clutch cover assembly. The Super II was very different from the "plain" Super. The 630 series was under constant change from beginning to end and those changes don't always line up with the changes in name. I'm sorry there isn't a simple answer to your question.

 

[Dub11]

It all depends on when the Super was made. A late 630 and an early 630 Super are essentially the same. Late Supers had many changes the most notable being the newer chainbrake/clutch cover assembly. The Super II was very different from the "plain" Super. The 630 series was under constant change from beginning to end and those changes don't always line up with the changes in name. I'm sorry there isn't a simple answer to your question.

So it is more or less external changes that coincide with the name changes and not a
cylinder with more aggressive timing number?

 

[Dub11]

Can anyone tell me when Jonsereds changed to Jonsered?

Never noticed it until I unboxed this 49sp and put this bar on it.

 

[ray benson]

Can anyone tell me when Jonsereds changed to Jonsered?
View attachment 113231
Never noticed it until I unboxed this 49sp and put this bar on it.

Around 1985 for marketing reasons.

 

[Dub11]

Around 1985 for marketing reasons.

Thanks and I find that kind of strange too since I was born in 85.

 

[dahmer]

Been looking online and can’t seem to get an answer that seems right. I have a 2166, been transfer port and muffler mod. What is the max rpm so I can play with the carb using the tach? Coil is stock. Thanks.

 

[NCFarmboy]

Spike60 says 13,000 IIRC.
Shep

 

[NCFarmboy]

It all depends on when the Super was made. A late 630 and an early 630 Super are essentially the same. Late Supers had many changes the most notable being the newer chainbrake/clutch cover assembly. The Super II was very different from the "plain" Super. The 630 series was under constant change from beginning to end and those changes don't always line up with the changes in name. I'm sorry there isn't a simple answer to your question.

Super II has single coil and bigger carb. Don't know on Super but I thought it also had 1 part ign. reg 630 use 2 part ign.
Shep

 

[lehman live edge slab]

Just got a johnsred 625 for free it runs but guy who gave me it said if you shut it off when hot it won’t restart till it cools off. I’m assuming it needs top end redone since it will run till Gas is gone unless sugar off. Otherwise if it dies when warm if lean towards no spark after hot, I’m wondering if this is a saw worth fixing or not real popular/good model and just use for parts?

 

[Dub11]

Just got a johnsred 625 for free it runs but guy who gave me it said if you shut it off when hot it won’t restart till it cools off. I’m assuming it needs top end redone since it will run till Gas is gone unless sugar off. Otherwise if it dies when warm if lean towards no spark after hot, I’m wondering if this is a saw worth fixing or not real popular/good model and just use for parts?

Id say it' worth it. Or if you don' want to mess with it let me know.