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Magic_Man

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I worked in the auto salvage industry for many years. We had a checklist of requiments that had to be fullfiled for their warranty to be valid on engines and transmissions to prevent failures similar to what are trying to prevent here. Many times engines failed for other reasons than the engine itself.

For example on engines our list looked like this and was on a printed card stock tag wired to the engine:

Requirements for Valid Warranty
1)Oil change with New Filter
2)New Water Pump
3)New Timing Belt or Chain
4)New Air Filter
5)New Fuel Filter
6)Radiator Flush with New Coolant

If there is engine failure bring this tag back along with receipts showing proof of purchase of these items. If engine is found to be defective not at fault of purchaser or installer engine will be exchanged along with a refund for consumable items (oil, oil filter, and coolant). If engine is found to be defective due to installer error or failure to follow these requirements no refunds of any kind will be given.
 

Gentleman

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Might want to change wording to "Before starting engine with your new piston/ cylinder.."; NOT sure you can do a pressure/ vacuum test on many failed engines?; additionally, testing w/ old parts does not mean that newly reassembled does not have same/ new problem, unless you test after installing? My $0.02
Good call. I did not think of that.
 

tpope

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I do not have much to add but I applaud your efforts. This is a nice step in the correct direction.
 

Motorhead

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Can I get some opinions on this cylinder/piston kit warranty sheet I'm working on. I want to include it with every cylinder kit that we sell. Will it cut down on the complaints from guys who put new cylinders on without fixing the problem that caused the failure. My fried Lee Smith from Lil Red Barn told me that it is working of him.

Any thing I should add or change? I'm sure I will get some good comments.


Cylinder/Piston Kit Warranty Information

To ensure that your machine starts and stays running for a long time you must perform the following tests before installing your new part.

In any 2-cycle engine you have two compression tests to perform, primary and secondary. Most people only do the secondary compression test. The secondary compression test is done by screwing a compression tester into the spark plug hole and pulling the starter rope. This test will only tell you the condition of the upper cylinder.

The primary compression tests are in the lower end of the crankcase. This test consists of vacuum and pressure tests. All 2-cycle engines must be air tight to perform correctly in operation. There cannot be any air leaks of vacuum leaks. Failure to perform the vacuum and pressure tests will void your warranty.

This testing information is true for all 2-cycle engines. Before any new parts are installed, whether OEM or aftermarket, these checks must be performed or there is a good possibility the engine will fail again. Do not just replace a cylinder or piston kit because it failed. It failed for a reason. If you don’t solve the problem it will happen again.

Possibilities the engine could have failed:
· Carburetor was improperly adjusted
· Improper fuel mixture
· Mechanical failure
· Loose cylinder bolts
· Leaking gaskets
· Impulse line
· Leaking intake manifold
· Carburetor inlet screen has debris causing fuel starvation
· Dirt ingestion
· Leaking oil seals
· Ethanol-based gas sat too long

In addition to the compression tests, you should also check your crankcase pulse. Primary compression is one part of crankcase pulse; the other part is cylinder, piston and ring condition. Crankcase pulse is necessary for the fuel pump, which is built into the carburetor, to pump fuel from the tank for the engine to run. To check the crankcase pulse, remove the carburetor and spark plug, apply some oil inside the impulse line and pull the starter handle. Oil should pulsate inside the hole. If you don’t have good crankcase pulse the carburetor will not perform correctly to keep the engine running at peak performance.

We recommend having a qualified technician perform these tests and install your parts.

Our cylinder kits are covered by 30-day warranty.
Failure to perform these checks will void your warranty
Educating the do it your selfers is good insurance,lil red barn has been doing it awhile.
 

Genius

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That is pretty impressive that you give a 30 day warranty on your kits.

What are you doing, going by their word that they performed all the tests?

I had one guy talk to me about working on his saw after he put in 3 top ends in it. After his second one he ruined he called me asking for advice. I told him to pressure check it and told him how to do it. He said everything tested fine. I told him to replace the fuel line while he was putting top end #3 in his saw and I asked if he wanted me to look at it. He said nope, he had it under control.

A few days later top end #3 went out. He brought the saw to me. He used a piece of fuel hose on his 034 for a impulse and it melted off.
He kept putting a new top end on, and connecting the tygon hose to the cylinder, after the saw would heat up the hose must have fell off.
 

Cat Face-Timber

How do you like my Chicken"s Eye?
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My opinion.
If I buy a cylinder and piston, and it fails it is my fault.
If I do not make sure my saw is ready, again my fault.
As long as the fit n finish are good, if not I would not install it.
 

foragefarmer

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Yeah, i just got a Jonsered 930 piston from Lil Red Barn and the 30 day warranty is nice. The 3-4 page instructions on what needs to be done to meet warranty requirements is a bit long but likely needed.
 

Nitehawk55

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Fuel tank vent plugged . Can be Vac tested to test if it's working and this does get overlooked .

Vac/pressure tester would be a great item , mines getting tired .
 
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