I killed my Tree Monkey 066 in 6 cuts

[huskytime]

well there you have it. used a hiway brand bearing because the oem bearing was back ordered and the saw needed done, a guy sure can save a lot of money using am parts.
new oem bearing, new piston, cylinder cleaned up well. ran 2 tanks all seems good.

That bearing really made a mess in there! Thank you Mr Tree Monkey Scott! I'm sorry this happened but thankful it didn't cause more damage. I am anxious to get it back and run it. Your reputation precedes you sir, having never met you or having any other connection other than this wonderful community, to stand behind your saw as you do is truly amazing. Any compliment that I could possibly give you would be an understatement.

We all got some schooling as well.

Thank you to everyone who chimed in with your experience and opinions. I learned a lot from and about this forum.

A ported saw is running beyond its factory limits and very small changes like temperature, altitude, fuel, tiny air leaks etc make a much bigger difference than in a stock saw that has the "oops" buffer factored into its design.

My experience tuning a saw comes from my dad and his old 026 (and 031). That trusty saw was very forgiving, and very stock. If you recommend a muffler mod to the man he would scowl at you as if you were suggesting you had intentions towards his daughter.

4 stroking at WOT out of the wood but not in the wood was his lesson on tuning the high. Feeling out throttle response was the low. It might work for the old 026 but this has scared me to respect a fine ported saw more than that. I was told this one likes 13.3k and I think i'll tune it exactly there and leave it.

Hes a real good guy. Had nothing but positives when dealing with him. Very polite too.

Thank you sir, ditto!

I'm working 7 days a week daylight till dark but could find 30 minutes to put a piston in so he could get his saw going.

Thank you sir for backing up your fellow builder and furthermore this fine community that I am very lucky to be a part of.

I'm glad he's taking care of you. But it doesn't surprise me. He's a good man!

Yes, yes he is, thank you again sir!

 

[drf256]

That bearing really made a mess in there! Thank you Mr Tree Monkey Scott! I'm sorry this happened but thankful it didn't cause more damage. I am anxious to get it back and run it. Your reputation precedes you sir, having never met you or having any other connection other than this wonderful community, to stand behind your saw as you do is truly amazing. Any compliment that I could possibly give you would be an understatement.



Thank you to everyone who chimed in with your experience and opinions. I learned a lot from and about this forum.



My experience tuning a saw comes from my dad and his old 026 (and 031). That trusty saw was very forgiving, and very stock. If you recommend a muffler mod to the man he would scowl at you as if you were suggesting you had intentions towards his daughter.

4 stroking at WOT out of the wood but not in the wood was his lesson on tuning the high. Feeling out throttle response was the low. It might work for the old 026 but this has scared me to respect a fine ported saw more than that. I was told this one likes 13.3k and I think i'll tune it exactly there and leave it.



Thank you sir, ditto!



Thank you sir for backing up your fellow builder and furthermore this fine community that I am very lucky to be a part of.



Yes, yes he is, thank you again sir!

Kudos to you for your approach to this entire situation. You exercised uncommon restraint and it worked out well in the end. This site turned out well, to say the least.

As for the 13,300 rpm tune, I'd say to go with your dad's rule to be safe. It's a ported saw, so the sweet spot won't be as forgiving as stock. The tune will also change based on the weather and certainly based on which bar you will run. 13.3k may be fine with a 36" bar, but the saw may be slobbering on itself with a 20" bar. Keep it tuned where it just stops 4 stroking with normal bar pressure and you'll be golden.

 

[Wolverine]

Kudos to you for your approach to this entire situation. You exercised uncommon restraint and it worked out well in the end.

+1
Agreed!

 

[trooney]

I'm glad everything worked out in the end. And I would like to agree with the above posts. Your demeanor has been incredible the whole time. Lessons for everybody. Scott told me 13.3 and I tried to keep it as close as possible but I did what Al said, when it stops 4 stroking in wood with light pressure is where I'd put it. Remember you've got a new saw, so the old rules may/may not apply. These ported saws are touchy I'm learning too. Good luck to you!

 

[t4driller]

I"ve had trouble with the pin brgs in saws using the 288 piston also, both aftermarket and oem. It seems that custom machining spacers to keep both the rod and bearing centered in the piston has eliminated the issue. All of the saws I have sent out with the spacers have been trouble free, and the brgs were aftermarket.

Do you have a pic of the spacers? I'm running a 288 piston in a 066 I built and was concerned about this problem. I used a oem bearing. I'm going to be taking it back apart to adjust some things.

 

[A.E.E.llc]

Do you have a pic of the spacers? I'm running a 288 piston in a 066 I built and was concerned about this problem. I used a oem bearing. I'm going to be taking it back apart to adjust some things.

Not this particular p&c, but for another. Sorry for the beer can prop. It was a joke. Lol

 

[Adirondackstihl]

Hello Shawn

 

[A.E.E.llc]

Iirc those bushing were for 12mm pin and .042 thick. Giving .003 side clearance for lubrication.

 

[Wilhelm]

View attachment 38734

View attachment 38735

View attachment 38736

View attachment 38737

View attachment 38738

well there you have it. used a hiway brand bearing because the oem bearing was back ordered and the saw needed done, a guy sure can save a lot of money using am parts.
new oem bearing, new piston, cylinder cleaned up well. ran 2 tanks all seems good.

That could have ended much nastier, OP got lucky in his misfortune.

Good people here, makes this forum pleasant.

 

[awol]

Do you have a pic of the spacers? I'm running a 288 piston in a 066 I built and was concerned about this problem. I used a oem bearing. I'm going to be taking it back apart to adjust some things.

I don't have any pics on my phone, will have to take some new ones when I get home. The spacers are similar to the ones shown above by AEEllc, but are double thickness; one to hold the brg in the center of the rod, another to hold the rod in the center of the piston.

 

[t4driller]

I don't have any pics on my phone, will have to take some new ones when I get home. The spacers are similar to the ones shown above by AEEllc, but are double thickness; one to hold the brg in the center of the rod, another to hold the rod in the center of the piston.

Thank you sir

 

[A.E.E.llc]

I don't have any pics on my phone, will have to take some new ones when I get home. The spacers are similar to the ones shown above by AEEllc, but are double thickness; one to hold the brg in the center of the rod, another to hold the rod in the center of the piston.

Attention to detail. Simple and don't take much effort. Swapping pistons not intended for the rod needs some thought. Not much tho. Lol

 

[huskihl]

Attention to detail. Simple and don't take much effort. Swapping pistons not intended for the rod needs some thought. Not much tho. Lol

I have a meteor piston for a 10mm 044. The pin bosses are quite a bit wider than the rod. Would you recommend similar spacers for this application?

 

[Adirondackstihl]

I have a meteor piston for a 10mm 044. The pin bosses are quite a bit wider than the rod. Would you recommend similar spacers for this application?

If you plan on running it, yes.
I did a thread on this over on AS a few years ago. All the measurements are there

 

[A.E.E.llc]

If you plan on running it, yes.
I did a thread on this over on AS a few years ago. All the measurements are there

Now why would he run it? Lol. Good thing you did showing they didn't pay attention to detail.

 

[huskihl]

If you plan on running it, yes.
I did a thread on this over on AS a few years ago. All the measurements are there

I remember the thread pointing it out. Thanks. I'm thinking I'll use an oem and eBay the meteor

 

[Mark71gtx]

Glad to see this got handled as well as it did. This could have been a very costly repair if the cylinder did not clean up. All parties involved deserve much respect fr the professional an friendly way they handled this situation.

 

[huskytime]

I got the saw back last week but I was having a heck of a time getting it started. The pressure release valve would pop back up on me every pull. I bruised my fingers and racked my brain. I practiced my drop starts with the compression gauge and got 190 psi. Without a spark turned on I could get a good drop start pull but it would still slam to a stop decomp or not when i'd try to start it.

I thought if I had a decompression valve that had a higher threshold then maybe that would help. JMSSAWS recommended I try a husky valve instead. I noticed the little hole on the side was a lot bigger than on the existing one and sure enough it fired right up!

 

[RI Chevy]

Well.....Lets get the video going.

 

[awol]

Here they are. No bearing problems in over a year of steady use, Meteor piston and Farmertech bearing. That is in a 660 I did for a crew here local.