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MustangMike

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Started engine, waited for temps to start warming up then went from idle to 8K plus RPMs

Just like I said, a couple of heat cycles then put it in the wood! Let the ring (or rings) start to match the cylinder, and the crank line itself a bit, then put it in the wood. It takes a engine with fluids a lot longer to warm up than an air cooled 2 cycle.

Also gives you opportunity to properly tune the saw.
 
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Bilge Rat

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A couple of heat cycles will help with stress relief of the parts and sometimes the builder.
The stresses built up by the cases need to be normalized and bolts checked.
How long it takes to achieve this is the question.

An old Winston Cup engine builder told me this

Fire it up for proof of life and listen for bad noises etc, Run it about 15 to 2000 RPM for about 2 minutes
Let it cool about an hour while checking everything.
Run it a second time , get it warm and run it at all RPMs changing it constantly. Run it about 10 min. after it gets warm.
Let it cool for an hour, check and adjust.
Fire it up, get it warm and see if it will run, If it stays together put it in the car and go fast.

The 1st run was with no load.
2nd run with about 10% load on the dyno.
3rd run put a load on it with the dyno.

If you want to do some power runs to get real numbers he liked to let it sit overnight then run it.

In the real world when you need a motor for the race tomorrow you build it in the motel bathtub and go race it.
He said they were banned from a few motel chains back in the 1970s for some reason.

My method for saws.
Fire it up, let it rattle everything around a few min.
Let cool.
Fire it tune it and run in wood about 1/2 tank , tune it then let cool.
Go and use it.
Check it often during the first 10 tanks then run it like a normal old chainsaw.
 

hseII

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I vac test every saw I port if it’s all used, cause it’s a cat in the bag and it’s well worth the time investment.

Guys tend to send saws and overlook any problems. Some honestly think that the redo of the cylinder will fix the running issues-this is rarely the case.

I’ve yet to have an all new build leak. I only go oem on the case parts and bearings as the cost is nearly all labor. One looks at saving a whopping $30 using AM parts there. Would you build a house on a straw foundation?

A Pig & a Poke.


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hseII

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That piston is actually Italian, not Swedish, and the valve was picked cause it leaks more than the German ones.

Attention to detail is important to me.

Your Level of Quality Work & Attention to detail is impressive RC.


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drf256

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Propper break-in is WFO in wood, if they wnt take it, then they weren't any good to begin with.
Ummmm....

Me too. Start it, few blips of the throttle. Then a few revs. Make sure it’s warmed up. Tune it fat to start, then lay it it wood and Beat on it.
 

drf256

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Lol.
I used to catch eels by the hundreds. I gave them to my wife's old Italian Aunt. She grabbed them, nailed them to wood and skinned them alive. Cooked them in fry pan and ate them while still squirming back and forth. Couldn't give me enough hugs and kisses. LOL
If you’re a fan of smoked fish, there is nothing better than smoked eels. Try them and you’ll know I’m right.
 
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