Husqvarna 562xp air leak driving me mad

[Maxchaos]

I picked up this 562xp broken because of bad bearings and seals,as usual.
New piston,used good cylinder,changed everything with new OE bearings and seals and gaskets.
Used motoseal on cylinder base and crankcase mating surface as usual.
Saw started after 2-3 pulls.
Runs strane,idle a bit high,bit of bogs when blipping the throttle.
Started checking for leaks,seemed around the cylinder base,maybe the transfer covers,pulled everything,new gasket with more thickness because saw is After 2020,oring of the transfer covers was fine bit still changed and used some yamabond to seal better.
Closed everything back.
Same problem.Still around cylinder especially on the back so pulled everything again and new boot with motoseal was installed.
SAME IDENTYCAL PROBLEM.
I noticed when you spray on carb the saw dies so must be the carb maybe.
Cleaned and changed every seal with the repair kit with gasket etc. Yes the autotune one too.
New filters too.
Now it's even worse, very high idle and too lean.
Before I put It in the trash,what else can I do without searching for a new carb?
I was thinking maybe the flywheel seal wasn't installed properly,will try to find one new, but there's something strange going on.
Thanks everyone.

 

[cuinrearview]

I seem to remember seeing something @huskihl wrote about some interference around the exhaust side of the cylinder after dropping it, but that may have been after machine work and not just deleting the gasket. May be worth searching on this site for, or maybe pork digits will chime in.

 

[redneckhillbilly]

maybe a cylinder head bolt is too long.

 

[hacskaroly]

Before I put It in the trash,what else can I do without searching for a new carb?

I worked on a 562xp it it gave me fits. Narrowed it down to the carb, an air leak somewhere. The purge bulb would not fill, would just whistle. I replaced the bulb, the lines, new diaphragm kit, cleaned everything really well and still had an air leak. I even used clear fingernail polish around the seams to eliminate any leaks and still did not work. I hooked up the purge bulb directly to the fuel and return line and it pumped like a champ, but when connected to the carb, it failed. New one of those carbs goes for about $120, customer wasn't willing to go for it.

 

[huskihl]

I don’t think it will matter with just a gasket delete, but you can check the front left where the transfer cap screw is close to the case and also on the front right. I don’t believe you can do a gasket delete to a 562 without some clearance work somewhere. I would measure your cylinder extension and see if there is room in the case for it. Many of them hit on top of the bearing pockets

 

[Maxchaos]

maybe a cylinder head bolt is too long.

Mmm,I'm not using the original ones because I don't know where they are. Need to double check this,but the cylinder I think it's well sealed,with yamabond hardened I almost couldn't pull the jug off!

I didn't drop the cylinder,I've used 3 different gasket, 0,5mm 0.75mm and even 1mm,no change! And always used the yamabond or the permatex gasket maker.

Didn't change the fuel lines,I will try with a temporary hose and by-pass the purge bulb :/

 

[Jusgunn3]

I have two of these with scored tops ends…thinking real hard about these rebuilds

 

[Carbday]

Check the boot, especially these locations where the rubber pipe goes through the plastic part (part 12 in picture).

The neck of the rubber part can develop a crack, so make sure to wiggle it a bit to make sure it's intact.