Husqvarna 142 basic carb settings

[MattG]

I would not just assume the crank seals are OK. A pressure test now before you tear it down would be a good idea to check those.

Yeah, that's what common sense tells me
Balls, have to go and see what I can rig up.

 

[Simondo]

Yeah, that's what common sense tells me
Balls, have to go and see what I can rig up.

Matt.
A few points .. (just my opinion ! )
How old is the saw ? (not that new as its a 142..8 plus yrs ?).
Do you really want to start on a saw that has so little value in it even if your owner ...SAYS.. there happy to go ahead?
Simple maintenance on this sort of saw is all well and good , but a full strip and rebuild if the saw shows a air leak ..BEFORE.. you put a spanner on the bottom end ???
Maybe...for me ... NO.
I think sometimes advising against repair is a GOOD thing and investing in a younger saw with the cash that may be spent on that 142 is likely to be a beneficial move.

 

[huskyboy]

Matt.
A few points .. (just my opinion ! )
How old is the saw ? (not that new as its a 142..8 plus yrs ?).
Do you really want to start on a saw that has so little value in it even if your owner ...SAYS.. there happy to go ahead?
Simple maintenance on this sort of saw is all well and good , but a full strip and rebuild if the saw shows a air leak ..BEFORE.. you put a spanner on the bottom end ???
Maybe...for me ... NO.
I think sometimes advising against repair is a GOOD thing and investing in a younger saw with the cash that may be spent on that 142 is likely to be a beneficial move.

I tried telling a guy who dropped off a nearly brand new husky 455 to me with a cracked tank (dropped off truck tailgate) that it was not worth fixing. He spent 150$ on “tank” (tank is part of cases on this saw unfortunately) and a 60$ handlebar plus the 75 bucks in labor I’m charging him (dealer wanted 250$ not including the handle). So all said and done he’ll have a 680$ homeowner saw...coulda just bought a 562...

 

[RIDE-RED 350r]

Yep, sometimes it's just not economical for people to have certain saws fixed. Only time its worth it is for guys like us who can do our own work on them and know where to scrounge up good used parts.

 

[huskyboy]

Yep, sometimes it's just not economical for people to have certain saws fixed. Only time its worth it is for guys like us who can do our own work on them and know where to scrounge up good used parts.

If it were my personal saw I’d solder the plastic handlebar and small tank crack. Not doing that on a another person’s saw though. Too much of a liability.

 

[MattG]

Matt.
A few points .. (just my opinion ! )
How old is the saw ? (not that new as its a 142..8 plus yrs ?).
Do you really want to start on a saw that has so little value in it even if your owner ...SAYS.. there happy to go ahead?
Simple maintenance on this sort of saw is all well and good , but a full strip and rebuild if the saw shows a air leak ..BEFORE.. you put a spanner on the bottom end ???
Maybe...for me ... NO.
I think sometimes advising against repair is a GOOD thing and investing in a younger saw with the cash that may be spent on that 142 is likely to be a beneficial move.

Hi Simon....

(Don't worry about upsetting me with your opinion )

I totally agree with what you've said above. The only reason I've perservered even this far, is because the gang of people I mend saws for are useful contacts for my family to get cheap/free wood from, and because I believe that for this saw there may be a marginal amount of sentiment attached since I believe it's his "girlfriend's Dads". Crazy indeed.

But yeah, there's little point really going any further if there's a leak. And on that note I tried a P and V test yesterday......it was a real nuisance (I've got lots of kit to do this very quickly for Stihls, but none for huskies yet), since I was unable to both seal and obtain a reading via the (non-circular on this model!) impulse hole. It would seal for a fraction of a second with me forcing the mityvac nozzle into the hole etc. and I think it's air tight........but as I'm sure you'd feel too....I'm not sure enough to give it a clean bill and proceed with a strip-down.

So to that end I've ordered the husqvarna pressure test adapter 503844002. It's only about 6.50 inc vat+postage, so it's probably a decent investment. I think that with this alone I'll be able to diagnose husk stuff a bit better.

However even if the engine is air tight, how easy is it to change a piston over on a clamshell design, without compromising the seal?? Although I've not done one (clamshell) before it looks as lifting the jug off exposes the top edge of the seals.

What do you reckon, even if it's air tight, is worth going any further?

 

[Simondo]

Hi Simon....

(Don't worry about upsetting me with your opinion )

I totally agree with what you've said above. The only reason I've perservered even this far, is because the gang of people I mend saws for are useful contacts for my family to get cheap/free wood from, and because I believe that for this saw there may be a marginal amount of sentiment attached since I believe it's his "girlfriend's Dads". Crazy indeed.

But yeah, there's little point really going any further if there's a leak. And on that note I tried a P and V test yesterday......it was a real nuisance (I've got lots of kit to do this very quickly for Stihls, but none for huskies yet), since I was unable to both seal and obtain a reading via the (non-circular on this model!) impulse hole. It would seal for a fraction of a second with me forcing the mityvac nozzle into the hole etc. and I think it's air tight........but as I'm sure you'd feel too....I'm not sure enough to give it a clean bill and proceed with a strip-down.

So to that end I've ordered the husqvarna pressure test adapter 503844002. It's only about 6.50 inc vat+postage, so it's probably a decent investment. I think that with this alone I'll be able to diagnose husk stuff a bit better.

However even if the engine is air tight, how easy is it to change a piston over on a clamshell design, without compromising the seal?? Although I've not done one (clamshell) before it looks as lifting the jug off exposes the top edge of the seals.

What do you reckon, even if it's air tight, is worth going any further?

If its air tight then with a duff piston it still wouldnt be worth opening up the bottom end as the IPL shows no gasket to replace. You would then be into using a Husqvarna spec sealant on the aluminium crank bottom cap.

 

[RIDE-RED 350r]

Would Threebond, Motoseal type sealants be a suitable substitute? I know that many power sports manufacturers use exactly those to seal their crankcases in leau of a gasket

 

[MattG]

Ok, for fear of sounding stupid, here. Will I need to remove the clutch, flywheel, etc. to do the job right? That is to reseal the outer edges of the seal back to the crankcase.....and of course complete any sealing surface needed the remaining case "gasket" faces??

Again, apologies, my first clamshell attempt

The reason, why I need to know this, is that I've got 2 other profound issues with this saw, mainly due to lack of experience with husks:

1. I don't have a husk clutch tool. I'm either going to have make one (TIME) or buy one (MONEY)
2. I tried earlier to take off the starter cover. Even that foxed me! There's 4 fixing screws, 2 come off just fine, the other two I can't loosen (yes they are associated with AV system I think), basically as I apply torque on the driver, they move and tighten up very hard against (what I imagine must be) spring pressure. Is this easy to get my head round? Or does it mean something else has gone bad on this saw, more time and money....etc....etc...

Sorry (again!) to go on, but as you can all imagine, I'm just get closer and closer to calling the guy and suggesting we cut our losses.

 

[huskyboy]

Would Threebond, Motoseal type sealants be a suitable substitute? I know that many power sports manufacturers use exactly those to seal their crankcases in leau of a gasket

Bob was saying threebond would work fine when I asked him regarding 455

 

[Simondo]

Ok, for fear of sounding stupid, here. Will I need to remove the clutch, flywheel, etc. to do the job right? That is to reseal the outer edges of the seal back to the crankcase.....and of course complete any sealing surface needed the remaining case "gasket" faces??

Again, apologies, my first clamshell attempt

The reason, why I need to know this, is that I've got 2 other profound issues with this saw, mainly due to lack of experience with husks:

1. I don't have a husk clutch tool. I'm either going to have make one (TIME) or buy one (MONEY)
2. I tried earlier to take off the starter cover. Even that foxed me! There's 4 fixing screws, 2 come off just fine, the other two I can't loosen (yes they are associated with AV system I think), basically as I apply torque on the driver, they move and tighten up very hard against (what I imagine must be) spring pressure. Is this easy to get my head round? Or does it mean something else has gone bad on this saw, more time and money....etc....etc...

Sorry (again!) to go on, but as you can all imagine, I'm just get closer and closer to calling the guy and suggesting we cut our losses.

I would say that you should take the hole motor out to clean everything down " scrupulously" and removing the clutch would be a logical thing as the needle roller bearing should be checked anyhow.
For me...i worked out where I wanted to stop on this sort of saw a while back due to the costs and time involved.
If you want a further opinion.....You have some time and money in this already so now should be the time to stop if you are going to....your call

 

[MattG]

I would say that you should take the hole motor out to clean everything down " scrupulously" and removing the clutch would be a logical thing as the needle roller bearing should be checked anyhow.
For me...i worked out where I wanted to stop on this sort of saw a while back due to the costs and time involved.
If you want a further opinion.....You have some time and money in this already so now should be the time to stop if you are going to....your call

You're right. Time to let him know the the bad news, I think. I.e. call it a day!

 

[MattG]

1. I....
2. I tried earlier to take off the starter cover. Even that foxed me! There's 4 fixing screws, 2 come off just fine, the other two I can't loosen (yes they are associated with AV system I think), basically as I apply torque on the driver, they move and tighten up very hard against (what I imagine must be) spring pressure. Is this easy to get my head round? Or does it mean something else has gone bad on this saw, more time and money....etc....etc...

Out of interest, can anyone shed any light at all, on this issue with the start cover......i.e. how does one actually "unscrew" the 2 screws which go into the AV lugs? Is the fact that they won't come out easily indicative of an issue? Or is it just a case of "you're not doing it right, Matt".

 

[Simondo]

You're right. Time to let him know the the bad news, I think. I.e. call it a day!

Right/Wrong .....its just my way of looking at it Matt ... Others may disagree .

 

[Simondo]

Out of interest, can anyone shed any light at all, on this issue with the start cover......i.e. how does one actually "unscrew" the 2 screws which go into the AV lugs? Is the fact that they won't come out easily indicative of an issue? Or is it just a case of "you're not doing it right, Matt".

Check to see if the av's are turning behind the case as you try to undo the screw.

 

[Simondo]

Pic of Husq AV...

captive screw one end and the other end has a thread cut into the mettle bonded part

 

[MattG]

Pic of Husq AV...
View attachment 123812
captive screw one end and the other end has a thread cut into the mettle bonded part

Hmm....ok, I guess (I don't know for sure - as I've not tackled them properly), i.e. I chickened out and left the starter cover on, that the other surface is like this?

Correct?

In that case, it seems that yes the rubber joint is flexing before the thread holding the cover down breaks free. Rats. So I guess (were I to actually, get anymore involved in this job , I'd need to grip that metal plate hard (e.g. with pliers) so that my applied torque just loosens the thread I actually want it to.

Issues like this are just making me want to kiss the whole job goodbye more and more!

 

[MattG]

Well I informed the owner yesterday, that with all due consideration, we should just our losses, and spend no more time/money on this saw. He seemed ok on this.

But for one last question....can someone tell me what I should do, for future reference, if I get husky in that I need to remove the starter cover off, whose AV joints flex whilst trying to extract all the screws (instead of letting the cover screw break free). Do you just assume the AV joint must be replaced (i.e. sacrifice it, for the sake of removing the cover screw) and grip the AV joint from just behind the cover with some pliers while applying more torque to the screw head?

 

[huskyboy]

Btw I wouldn’t refer to that vile thing as a hoosky. It’s a orange pull-on. Lol

 

[Simondo]

Well I informed the owner yesterday, that with all due consideration, we should just our losses, and spend no more time/money on this saw. He seemed ok on this.

But for one last question....can someone tell me what I should do, for future reference, if I get husky in that I need to remove the starter cover off, whose AV joints flex whilst trying to extract all the screws (instead of letting the cover screw break free). Do you just assume the AV joint must be replaced (i.e. sacrifice it, for the sake of removing the cover screw) and grip the AV joint from just behind the cover with some pliers while applying more torque to the screw head?

Grip the rubber as best you can to get the outer screw undone and then you need a 2 pronged tool to undo the mount from the case. The rubber is fairly tough ..Unless..bar oil has done for it . Some make it, some don't and many will not do what you have a problem with on this saw. The thing to remember is that the corse thread that is into the plastic of the saw on the other end will strip the plastic (if abused) and then your into real agro.