HELP! Husqvarna 141 very small crank seal leak runnable?

[JacobSaws]

I'm about done with my Husqvarna 141 build. I bought as a parts saw, cleaned it all up, and replaced many parts. I go to run it for the first time and doesn't want to start, idle screw does nothing, runs like crap, and doesn't want to restart. I suspect it has an air leak, so I tear it all down to do a pressure test and both seals are just flowing out air from the inner lip. I end up rebuilding this damn clam shell 3 times because it never wants to hold air. It has new oem bearings and seals, crank has been inspected and polished, and it's super straight forward to install the bearings and seals. But I must've done something right after trying different ways of installing the seals because now the flywheel side doesn't leak and clutch side very little, like it will hold 5 psi for about a minute. I tried 7 psi and it would stay for longer. Is it ok for a very little to leak? Or should there be no leak at all? Currently this saw is in pieces, and I'd like to get it all together but not if it's going to run bad. Please lmk what you guys think

 

[jacktheripper]

I got one of these in very ugly condition, and I gave up on rebuilding it because I couldn’t get the seals to actually seal to the cylinder. There is a very small area in the cup where they actually seal. It’s still sitting in a box.

 

[JacobSaws]

I got one of these in very ugly condition, and I gave up on rebuilding it because I couldn’t get the seals to actually seal to the cylinder. There is a very small area in the cup where they actually seal. It’s still sitting in a box.

Mines soon to be in a box as well I'm just going to put it all back together and hope it's fine...it's such a small leak.

 

[hacskaroly]

I'm just going to put it all back together and hope it's fine...it's such a small leak.

It's fine until it isn't...those can be tough ones to get all sealed up.

 

[Brad Button]

This is what Stihl's leak-down test says,

Use rubber bulb to pump air into


the engine housing until the gauge


shows a pressure of 0.4 bar


(5.8 psi). If this pressure remains


constant for at least 20 seconds,


The engine housing is airtight, so I would think if yours is holding 5 psi for 1 minute, it is ok. Unless Husky is different in their testing.

 

[Brad Button]

Did you put a light coating of Dirko or other sealant around the outside of the seals before installing?

 

[Duce]

This is what Stihl's leak-down test says,

Use rubber bulb to pump air into


the engine housing until the gauge


shows a pressure of 0.4 bar


(5.8 psi). If this pressure remains


constant for at least 20 seconds,


The engine housing is airtight, so I would think if yours is holding 5 psi for 1 minute, it is ok. Unless Husky is different in their testing.

Most husky manuals will give accessible pressure drop after 30 seconds. I would run it, but it’s not my saw. Like was stated, I always coat metal seal flange with sealant.

 

[JacobSaws]

Did you put a light coating of Dirko or other sealant around the outside of the seals before installing?

Yes, on the outside of the seal. It's the inner part of the seal (between crank and seal) that's leaking and I can absolutely not figure it out. Thanks for your help, I'll probably come back here after I run it and say how it runs.

 

[Coupe]

Run it for a while and see what happens. Sometimes these things want a bit of
a run to bed in.