I agree, the tail of the bar can see more wear, I also notice the bar and chain will be a bit more dry, more sling and chain speed I assume. I prefer 7 pin most of the time, even on saws that can run an 8. Don't think it will harm the internals, other than more engine heat if you're too heavy handed.
I'm wondering why the Stihl engineers would make the saw this way to start with. It's almost as though it should have 15ccs less and be in the home owner lineup.
Yes but, did they forget about the large market over here? LOL
Good point there. The rest of the world is a lot bigger than the pnw. Not the only place where cutting trees happens. It’s why wraps and large dogs are an option. Not everyone cuts 5 - 6 foot diameter 200+ft tall fir trees with 36” bars. There smart by appealing to different markets with the same basic saw. More profit. Just add the accessories you want for your cutting needs. I still think the 500i av is a bit too soft for even shorter bars like a 24-28”… but the 661 spring seems to resolve that issue. Now we just need max flo to offer a proper filter for the 500i that doesn’t need cleaned daily like the stock one.
Yup, but the east coast uses long bars too. Across the pond they're testing with short bars like posted about earlier. I see Silver Maples daily that are over 3' in dia. Those sukas grow fast. And I ain't kiddin.
If you in include all chainsaws that makes sense, but I would venture to guess if we were to narrow things down to say 70cc saws and up, that would change a bit. Sales guys alway tend to look at volume and often miss the importance of what got them to those large numbers, the loggers are what made Stihl the name it is today, forgetting that would be a mistake, even if it doesn't matter the same it once did.
Had to fill in a few thin spots that were a bit thin for my liking after I ground the spot welds out. This muffler is paper thin… guess they did it to save weight. 
Of course you would use that stuff.
Ever try using a spot weld drill bit? Muff metal may be a bit to thin though. Primarily used in auto body work. Blair is one company makin them.
Lol what a coincidence and yeah I think I would like to try one of those spot weld drill bits. Some of the ones on the roof of the muffler have to be ground with a burr cause they are a tough angle to get at with a drill bit. There’s like 8 spot welds in total I thinkOf course you would use that stuff.
Made in MASON, Ohio.
Ever try using a spot weld drill bit? Muff metal may be a bit to thin though. Primarily used in auto body work. Blair is one company makin them.
. Honestly if I was to do it again I’d do it like I did the 462 muffler. Leave the baffle in but grind the area in front of the port so it’s a straight shot out. Pretty much achieves the same thing. I was just curious if removing the baffle completely would make a difference.
