Husky 372 questions

[idiotwithasaw]

I just assumed he was being sarcastic.b

 

[Tor R]

Single vs. two rings isn't a 371 vs. 372 thing. It is a non-EPA version vs. EPA version thing, and the change happened before the model designation changed, on the US market.
I am not sure when the change happened on other markets, or if it happened at all on all markets.

both my 372's, 00 and 05 has single ring piston, and both are the original ones also.
You are spot on as always Niko

 

[Brewz]

I just assumed he was being sarcastic.b

Yeah, it was a "I put Stihl oil in my fuel and my husky won't run on it" joke

 

[SawTroll]

Wasn't the main difference between the 371 and 372 the front vs side tensioner, and the hd-6 vs hd-12b carb?

Tensioner, yes - and a reinforced case (mainly in the bar mount area, as far as I know). Weight went up a bit.

The HD-6 vs. HD-12 was another non-EPA vs EPA thing, at least for a while.

 

[Brewz]

This saw has the cut out and hole in the case for the chain tensioner but has it mounted in the chain cover which I REALLY like.
The 371 I rebuilt recently impressed me, but I disliked the front chain tensioner.

My 22" GB turned up in the mail today.
Its the older model and I got it off evilbay for about 2/3 what the new models are, only difference is the paint job.
I actually like the older look.

 

[Brewz]

I have been doing a bit of thinking about porting of these Huskies

What is the general rule of thumb of what needs to be done to make one of these 372's a real good runner?

It has .027 squish with a gasket delete so there is the first port of call

 

[SawTroll]

This saw has the cut out and hole in the case for the chain tensioner but has it mounted in the chain cover which I REALLY like.
The 371 I rebuilt recently impressed me, but I disliked the front chain tensioner.

.....

You can of course remove the front tensioner of the 371, and use a 372 (etc) clutch cover with a side tensioner on it.

It you use the saw a lot for noodling it may be best to stay with the front tensioner though, as I suspect the cover mounted tensioners is in the way of the noodle flow. This is just a theory though, I can't prove it.

 

[RIDE-RED 350r]

Wish I could give you some input on porting the OE 372 but I can't. My 372XPW I ported is the 75cc version and is a different animal in terms of what to do for porting. All I know is I REALLY like how it runs.

 

[SawTroll]

Wish I could give you some input on porting the OE 372 but I can't. My 372XPW I ported is the 75cc version and is a different animal in terms of what to do for porting. All I know is I REALLY like how it runs.

You likely have to do a lot more on the 51.4mm than on the 50mm, as the transfers are much narrower to begin with. @Mastermind once posted pictures of the metal he removed from both, and there was a huge difference.

 

[Brewz]

I have to say, I have not yet found a lot of loose screws on stihls yet, but all the husky's I have stripped had a lot of them.

The 372 that is the focus of this thread failed because the 2 front cylinder screws came loose.

Stihl screws have that saw tooth locking grip on the bottom of the head...... seems to work well.

I am thinking if I keep this 372, I will replace all the screws with T27 stihl screws

 

[Brewz]

A post went missing?

This is not AS..... no one is getting flamed here!

 

[treesmith]

Deleted my post by accident

Sent from my SM-T805Y using Tapatalk

 

[RIDE-RED 350r]

You likely have to do a lot more on the 51.4mm than on the 50mm, as the transfers are much narrower to begin with. @Mastermind once posted pictures of the metal he removed from both, and there was a huge difference.

You are absolutely correct.

 

[SawTroll]

I have to say, I have not yet found a lot of loose screws on stihls yet, but all the husky's I have stripped had a lot of them.

The 372 that is the focus of this thread failed because the 2 front cylinder screws came loose.

Stihl screws have that saw tooth locking grip on the bottom of the head...... seems to work well.

I am thinking if I keep this 372, I will replace all the screws with T27 stihl screws

If the owner glanced at the user manual, he would have known that the bolts and screws are supposed to be checked once a week, and there wouldn't have been any issue with them. I assume a week is in the context of every day professional use...

 

[Iron.and.bark]

This saw has the cut out and hole in the case for the chain tensioner but has it mounted in the chain cover which I REALLY like.
The 371 I rebuilt recently impressed me, but I disliked the front chain tensioner.

My 22" GB turned up in the mail today.
Its the older model and I got it off evilbay for about 2/3 what the new models are, only difference is the paint job.
I actually like the older look.

View attachment 23668

Picked up a few of these bars the other day, hardnose and roller tip. They are nice.

 

[Brewz]

I snapped this bar up because it was 63 gauge, not 58.

All my other Stihl bars are 63 and they only make the new ones for huskys in 058

 

[Terry Syd]

What is the general rule of thumb of what needs to be done to make one of these 372's a real good runner?

You may have noticed that in the videos there was mention of removing the cylinder skirt next to the transfers. Spike showed the size of the opening with a case-half and the cylinder - but should have showed how small the opening is with a crankshaft counterweight in the way. There is fork-all space at BDC (especially on the AM 77cc jugs).

I trimmed the cylinder up to the level of the gasket, then trimmed the side of the piston so the mixture can make the turn earlier and then put two small holes in the piston so that at BDC they would be exposed. With those mods you can make the AM 77cc jug breath like a 77cc jug.

If you have a Zama carb handy, you can drill out the jets to give it more grunt down low. For a 71cc jug, probably a .30 on the idle jet, .35 on the auxilliary and then a .55 on the first air bleed hole. If you have one, send the carb to me and I'll drill it for you - I could use that blue coil for my saw. I tune in the wood and the limited coil will keep the revs down for longer life. I loaned my saw to a dork who thought max revs was the only way to limb a tree.

Hmm, I think I may have an extra Zama carb in the shed. I'll take a look - you could compare the difference of the HD-12 and the modded Zama.

EDIT: Just checked and yep, I have an extra Zama.

 

[Brewz]

If the 064/066/288 project works out, this will likely end up as a backup saw so I don't plan to do too much with it up front.

I will run it as is and see if I like it enough to keep it.
If I do, then it will get some work

 

[SawTroll]

....

Hmm, I think I may have an extra Zama carb in the shed. I'll take a look - you could compare the difference of the HD-12 and the modded Zama.

EDIT: Just checked and yep, I have an extra Zama.

The Zama that was used on this family of saws (365 only, as far as I know) have a smaller venturi (17mm vs, 17.5) than the HD-12, are you doing anything about that?

Have you considered using the 19mm+ RWJ-4 of the x-torq versions?

 

[mdavlee]

The Zama that was used on this family of saws (365 only, as far as I know) have a smaller venturi (17mm vs, 17.5) than the HD-12, are you doing anything about that?

Have you considered using the 19mm+ RWJ-4 of the x-torq versions?

Modded Zama is a step up from the walbro in power. The xtorq carb is even better with the bigger venturi.