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HT131 help before I crush it for good

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What I used to clean it up with. Runs on air. Dentist friend gave it to me. It's rather low speed though.

c6cd8f52b373e385820a6f5677baf405.jpg


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Now another problem. Went to job and all of a sudden no more chain spinning. The key floats at the clutch and you can see where it has come out and been riding on the clutch spring. Is there something that's supposed to hold that in place? I have a 101 here and the key on it is further in the clutch drum. Mine will fall out?

5ec2330862d50f822395e5ba216961a4.jpg


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I might end up with a 133 before the day is over at this rate


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Simondo

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Now another problem. Went to job and all of a sudden no more chain spinning. The key floats at the clutch and you can see where it has come out and been riding on the clutch spring. Is there something that's supposed to hold that in place? I have a 101 here and the key on it is further in the clutch drum. Mine will fall out?

5ec2330862d50f822395e5ba216961a4.jpg


35003c4b4a69edb205e90efc461c4a29.jpg


I might end up with a 133 before the day is over at this rate


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Take a look at the pole end of the housing ...can you see the C clip...16 in the IPL ?
Screen Shot 2017-08-31 at 17.48.23.png
 

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Odd as I've never had this s pole apart. The key doesn't appear to have any grooves that would indicate a c clip holding it in place


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Simondo

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Take a look at the pole end of the housing ...can you see the C clip...16 in the IPL ?
View attachment 86077
I was in a KM 130 the other week and saw that C clip from the pole end ..I didnt have to remove the clutch but i could see nothing else that held the clutch drum in place through the bearing.
 

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The key slid towards the clutch so a clip on the other side would appear to stop it from going down the shaft mine is going the other way.


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Onan18

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Yes all OEM Stihl parts. I completely took it apart and lapped the exhaust valve and took a dentist grinder tool and ground the entire exhaust port shiny leaving no carbon behind. Cleaned up some casting flaws as well. Cleaned reassembled using motoseal. Didn't pressure or vac test. Primed some fuel down spark plug hole and started it. It appears to run like a raped ape now. Excellent throttle response.

I have no bar on it t now and of course 9pm so no trying it out.

My concern is that grinding out the exhaust area maybe filled in a crack or couldn't see and it will return to running bad? No parts have changed this round. I also made sure I n disassembly that timing was correct and it was.

Makes no sense really but I'll be extremely happy to not have to shell out $700 tomorrow for a new one.

I appreciate everyone's suggestions. It really shouldn't be this difficult.

In cleaning the exhaust port there was carbon that could be chipped out but in no way would I have considered it restricted beyond maybe 10% or so. Are these engines that sensitive to that?.

I've seen trimmers run with exhaust ports more than 50% restricted and still run although lacking power


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And that is why I do not like Four Mix at all, too many moving parts.
 

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For five years commercial operating it not one problem until this. It doesn't really owe me anything but clearly isn't worn out yet


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Simondo

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The key slid towards the clutch so a clip on the other side would appear to stop it from going down the shaft mine is going the other way.


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What are you calling a Key ? Have you not got the end of the drive shaft showing through the clutch centre in the pic .
 

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This keeps pushing toward clutch disengaging the shaft


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Figured it out the shaft plastic sleeve is all rounded out except for the last 1/4" so I need this sleeve apparently


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Figured it out the shaft plastic sleeve is all rounded out except for the last 1/4" so I need this sleeve apparently


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Oh right..so the clutch drum wasn't moving forward (what i thought you meant) and the C clip is in place to stop that . That Sq drive was coming out of its connection .
 

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Anyone know the part number for this sleeve. My dealer over phone couldn't find it


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Simondo

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Anyone know the part number for this sleeve. My dealer over phone couldn't find it


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Try this..my money is on 23.
Screen Shot 2017-08-31 at 18.41.48.png Screen Shot 2017-08-31 at 18.52.49.png
 

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Not sure on that as that looks externally splined and this tube goes over the steel splines shaft in the main tube. I put the101 shaft assemble on my 131 and it appears to work. It's slight different from the 131 shaft as it doesn't have the tube I took a picture of


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Simondo

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Not sure on that as that looks externally splined and this tube goes over the steel splines shaft in the main tube. I put the101 shaft assemble on my 131 and it appears to work. It's slight different from the 131 shaft as it doesn't have the tube I took a picture of


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Maybe something on this ..
 

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angelo c

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Replace the cam gear. If you've been running it with the top cover off (like in your pic), it probably melted. I learned this the hard way on a newer FS130. Lasted about 3 minutes of tuning before the lobe melted on the cam. It would still idle, but reduced lift would not flow enough volume of air to run at high speed. A brand new 4180 will melt the cam in less than 5 minutes under load without the shroud. That shroud IS a critical part that directs the cooling air over the cylinder.

good to hear from you Tim.
keep the wind at yer 6 out and back.
what are ya flyin these days ?
 

Lightning Performance

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I had a 101 wear out the rivets that hold the extension sections in the drive and together on the tube. Both went in the same week. It kept unloading the driveshaft. PIA to find.
 

SawDoc441

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4182 710 3201 is that lower shaft. You should grab a 4182 710 3203, which is the ENTIRE drive shaft end-to-end and lists for the same $38.57 as just the lower end by itself. Your dealer needs to go back to greeting folks at Wal-Mart.
 
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