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How to weld log splitter?

krag

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I posted on this log splitter with the sagging engine that became critical. I trussed it up so I can drive this to a welder. I bought a bunch of welding angle iron and plates. For the welders out there how would you do this one?
DSCF2768.JPGDSCF2761.JPGDSCF2763.JPG

I picked up:
8x24 inch 16 gauge weldable sheet;
3/16 x1 1/4 flat sheet;
1/2 inch rod
angle iron: 1/8 x 3/4 x 3 ft
1/8 x 1 inch x 3 ft
flat 1/8 x 1 1/4 x 3 ft flat
 

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pgk1

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I would just take the two parts off, clean them and tig weld, grind the back side smooth so it doesn't hit and re-install.
 

cuttin

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The brackets on each side of the tongue to hydraulic oil tank are definitely inadequate. First, if there's any space between the top of tongue and the reservoir then it should have a steel pad (shown in picture) tacked in so the bottom of tongue is tight to the reservoir. Besides prepping and welding up the broken area, I'd also add a piece of plate (shown in picture) to extend the existing so that you can place an additional bolt through the tongue. The motor weight is a big lever so adding more surface area will help. Make sure to properly chamfer and prep material and weld it up. Do both sides and you should have a splitter that will give you many more years of split wood.
 

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krag

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My local guy wants $450 for the job. We agreed replacing the tank may be the way to go instead of welding it.
 

cuttin

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My local guy wants $450 for the job. We agreed replacing the tank may be the way to go instead of welding it.
If the existing tank isn't compromised, you can just weld whatever fix necessary to it. You could cut the brackets off completely and weld on new and improved ones.
If you do end up buying a new tank, I'd still add a gusset where needed because the new one will have the same weak area as the old one.
 

dangerousatom

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If thats like all the other splitter Ive seen your other problem is the tank is built out of like 12-14g steel sheet and its not strong enough to be a real support for the motor. Particularly when driving, the bouncing is putting all the stress on the tank wall. You need to weld on that plae you got to add extra support and make a brakcet system to support the motor.


Untitled.jpg
 

singinwoodwackr

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I posted on this log splitter with the sagging engine that became critical. I trussed it up so I can drive this to a welder. I bought a bunch of welding angle iron and plates. For the welders out there how would you do this one?
View attachment 487387View attachment 487391View attachment 487393

I picked up:
Hard to tell from the pics how, exactly, the motor is mounted and to what. If just the tank, wow…really bad design. That much weight needs to be immobilized. A kind of triangular base, welded or bolted to both the tank assembly and the main beam is needed. Pretty hard to say without seeing it. I added a fair amount of steel to my old splitter to beef it up.
 

cuttin

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I think the OP is showing the tongue to tank brackets are the issue, not the motor brackets. Of course the motor brackets probably need attention as well.
 

krag

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Champion has tanks for $200 and change plus shipping, I'm assuming that the parts are modular and can be removed and replaced.
 

krag

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This part weighs 102 lbs.
I am working on getting you the shipping quote, will update you soon.

part PMJ25M-04-00A

thumbnail



Jonathan C. | Customer Service Technician
Champion Power Equipment, Inc.
6370 S Pioneer Way, Unit 101| Las Vegas, NV 89113
1-877-338-0999
championpowerequipment.com
Many pretenders, some contenders, one Champion.
thumbnail.jpg
 

legdelimber

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Doesn't look like they improved the two brackets where it all bolts under the main beam.
No matter what you do for the motor mount, You still need to brace~trangle the axle/tank assy so that it doesn't break the same way and reason as the first one did
 

singinwoodwackr

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Doesn't look like they improved the two brackets where it all bolts under the main beam.
No matter what you do for the motor mount, You still need to brace~trangle the axle/tank assy so that it doesn't break the same way and reason as the first one did
Better to take it a good fab shop that is part of the “over-build it” school of fabricating.
 

krag

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I brought it to a local guy who doubled his price even with my buying angle iron, etc., around $100 worth and he wanted $450. At this point it makes no sense to pay $500 or so for a homeowner splitter when better used units are available for a little more.
 

Al Smith

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That thing looks like it's a Chinese version of the "dirty hand " design .Dirty Hand as a company started out in the USA but either sold out or just moved production to China .The Chinese can't weld worth a hoot ,I've repaired several of them simply because I can weld .FWIW Surplus Center Hydraulics Company of Lincoln Nebraska had about 500 control valves for these things not so long ago ,cheap .As for a repair most likely under the bent up bracket that could be bent back in shape and under supported by two pieces of heavier angle iron welded to the bottom of the oil tank .It certainly is not a $500 fix .
 

Al Smith

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That thing looks like it's a Chinese version of the "dirty hand " design .Dirty Hand as a company started out in the USA but either sold out or just moved production to China .The Chinese can't weld worth a hoot ,I've repaired several of them simply because I can weld .FWIW Surplus Center Hydraulics Company of Lincoln Nebraska had about 500 control valves for these things not so long ago ,cheap .As for a repair most likely under the bent up bracket that could be bent back in shape and under supported by two pieces of heavier angle iron welded to the bottom of the oil tank .It certainly is not a $500 fix .
To further add those small wheel design machines that use basically wheel barrow tires are not made to tow down the road at 60 MPH .You'll beat them to death .
 

Al Smith

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Got a picture .This is from a Huskee (TSC) .This model uses a trapizodal type mounting .Rather heavy duty ,bent 1/4 inch stuff ,
 

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Shane¹

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I brought it to a local guy who doubled his price even with my buying angle iron, etc., around $100 worth and he wanted $450. At this point it makes no sense to pay $500 or so for a homeowner splitter when better used units are available for a little more.
For $450 why not just by a decent little wire feed and weld it yourself and you will have it for other repairs later down the road?
 
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