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How to set mixture by ear

Merkava_4

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I'll try to keep it as simple as I can. The internal combustion engine runs the best and puts out the most amount of power when the air and fuel entering the engine is at the correct ratio. A good starting point is 14 parts air to 1 part fuel. Stoichiometric Efficiency they call it. When the air to fuel ratio is outside of the ideal proportions, engine smoothness and power will decrease. The main variable is air density. Air density is not constant; it varies from day to day. A carburetor is a fuel metering device. It measures the correct amount of fuel for the air that's traveling through it. But carburetors need human intervention sometimes, especially when the air density changes; that's where the mixture needles come into play.

All a mixture needle does is restrict the amount of fuel flowing through a passageway. Too much fuel being allowed to travel through the passageway for a given amount of air traveling through the carburetor will cause what's called a rich condition. A rich condition means the ratio of fuel to air is outside the ideal ratio of fuel to air. Too much fuel and the engine will not sustain combustion at the most efficient level to make power. The same thing can be said for too little fuel. Too little fuel is a lean condition and the power output of the engine will drop off the same way it does with a rich condition. When the air density is less, like on a warm day, the engine requires less fuel. Conversely, cold air is more dense and requires more fuel. Altitude affects air density too. The higher up you go in altitude, the less dense the air is.

A carburetor will have two mixture needles for restricting the amount of fuel. One mixture needle is for idle speed and the other mixture needle is for high speed full throttle. Both needles will come with a bench setting. The service manual will specify the exact number of turns out for both the idle mixture needle and the high speed full throttle needle. Start with each needle fully seated. Then, turn the (L) needle out 1-1/2 turns. Turn the (H) needle out 3 turns. That's just to get the engine started. After the engine is started and running at idle speed, turn the (L) needle either to the left or the right to obtain the highest speed at idle. A turn to the left will richen the mixture. A turn to the right will lean out the mixture.

What you're trying to achieve is the smoothest operation and the highest speed at idle. Too lean and the engine speed will drop off. Too rich and the engine speed will drop off. Both too lean and too rich will affect engine speed and cause the speed to drop off. You're looking for the highest engine speed in between too lean and too rich. Adjusting the (H) needle is done the same exact way. The only difference is you will have the throttle trigger pulled all the way in when you're adjusting the (H) needle. The engine speed will be the highest and the sound will be the smoothest in between too lean and too rich. In other words, as you're going from a lean condition to a rich condition, the engine will speed up as you're turning the needle out which is to the left and then the speed will drop off at some point as you're tuning the needle to the left. It's at that drop off is when you went too rich. Turn the needle in to the right and you'll hear the engine speed up again. The highest speed in between too lean and too rich is the ideal ratio of fuel to air and when combustion is at its peak efficiency.
 

Bob11x

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That is fine but one needs to remember :
That is a no load adjustment. Adjust for peak no-load and find a melted piston when you work the snot out of it.
Always safest to go a hair to the rich side so that the engine will occasionally burble (know as “4-stroking”). This will give the best life vs performance.
I knew a few snowmobilers who would always crowd the lean side. Sold them a lot of pistons and jugs.
 

Ronaldo

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And it’s pretty easy to adjust that H needle under load. Bury the bar or at least get a good log to cut and make sure it burbles when the bar is lifted (no load) and get it back into the wood and it should “clean up” and stop burbling (4 stroking). This is how I set all my saws.
 

huskihl

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Most chainsaws carbs don’t have an accelerator pump. Using max idle rpm will bog a little when revving the saw. Need to set the L screw 1/8 to sometimes 1/2 turn out from max idle speed to get them to transfer from idle to wot.

As far as the H setting, 4 stroking is too rich, but it’s the only quick way of hearing that it’s rich enough. If you find max rpm in the cut, it should be safe. But I always richen it up a little in case conditions change just to be safe.

Internal combustion engines need more fuel to do more work. If it’s tuned to max rpm without a load and then you add load, it’s going to be too lean. If it’s tuned for max rpm in 12” wood, it’s going to be too lean in 24” wood because you’re asking it to do more work
 
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HumBurner

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Internal combustion engines need more fuel to do more work. If it’s tuned to max rpm without a load and then you add load, it’s going to be too lean. If it’s tuned for max rpm in 12” wood, it’s going to be too lean in 24” wood because you’re asking it to do more work

That's a really good way of explaining loading up a saw, right there.
 

mainer_in_ak

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Yep, a saw is just about useless tuned by ear out of the cut. It's a decent starting point. The saw won't even be at working temp, just revving and adjusting screws.

They almost always need more fuel, within the first tank. Easy to see: run a saw consecutively in bar-length wood for a few dozen cuts. Put a tach on it, and notice how dangerously high the rpms when the saw is really hot. A saw builder here spelled out to you how a 2-stroke tach works, remember?

1/8-1/4 turn richer and yer dialed in. When cold, the saw may even appear too slow either on the tach or in the wood. And that's OK get to work, and heat er up!

It's kinda comical: there are dozens of members on this forum who build thousands of dollars of saws per month. Tree service dudes and loggers who run many gallons of fuel daily.

Then a dude who cant understand an extremely common Stihl carb that compensates for a plugged filter, is gonna tell everyone how to tune their saw....
 
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Merkava_4

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Then a dude who cant understand an extremely common Stihl carb that compensates for a plugged filter, is gonna tell everyone how to tune their saw....

The post was meant for people who have never set mixture on any kind of engine. I am NOT telling you how to adjust your saw. You do you.
 

mainer_in_ak

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Where can I find the IntelliCarb edition? Is it in the blind leading the blind section?
 

Merkava_4

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Where can I find the IntelliCarb edition? Is it in the blind leading the blind section?

I'll admit I know next to nothing about the IntelliCarb carburetors. I'm still living in 1972 when there were no intelligent carburetors or cell phones. The IntelliCarb was invented by some very smart people because most of the people in the world are clueless when it comes to small engines and know nothing about carburetors or what they do. So basically you have a device invented by smart people for the benefit of dumb people.
 

mainer_in_ak

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Ive seen this before Merkava:

Someday, you are going to be sent to the future to save stupid people from electrolytes and Carl's junior and high/low needles. Even though you pretty much forgot initial idle screw setting, you will save the world. You're name will be appointed to you by the president: "Not Sure"

 
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