How much sealer to use when deleting base gasket???

[Brewz]

I use moto seal for cylinders, just a thin layer.

Recently I have started using permatex ultra copper on my evhaust gasket to stop leaks around this area.

It is rated to 700*f and recommended for automotive exhaust flanges etc.

http://www.permatex.com/products-2/...-temperature-rtv-silicone-gasket-maker-detail

Has worked well so far

 

[isaaccarlson]

I have used permatex 2 with good results. A little bit is all you need. Making sure your surfaces are flat and true makes a world of difference. Sealers are not meant to fill gaps, otherwise they would be called gap fillers, like that foam in a can.

EDIT: I made a mistake and fixed it to #2. I just used some to put a 350 back together, so I looked at the number.

 

[sefh3]

I have been using dirko for the last 6 or so years. I have only had a few Stihls that did need a gasket with aftermarket cylinders due to the squish too tight.

 

[isaaccarlson]

I fixed my post up above. It read permatex 1 but now says 2.

 

[MustangMike]

Now that I have done it successfully a few times, I will comment. I like the Permatex Anaerobic gasket maker # 51817, but I was not successful with it at first. Surface preparation is critical. Even if it looks clean, lightly sand it and then clean it with Brake Cleaner.

I just dab the stuff on to give a thin covering, and when working under the cylinder that is already over the rings, I put the little tube in some needle nose pliers to help reach in and squeeze it out. Seems to have worked very well for me on 3 saws so far.

I put the 046-D jug ported by Dr Al on my 460 with it, and deleted the gasket on my 044 and MS440 with it (they are both not ported). The resulting squish on the 044 was 20/1000 and the 440 was 19/1000. All three saws ran well at the Upstate NY GTG and in the field.

Lots of people on this site, including Randy, gave me advice on learning how to do this correctly, Thank You!

 

[mdavlee]

Half tube minimum for Honda bond. LOL poor Jon probably did use that much on his that one time.

 

[Chainsaw Jim]

Cleaning the surfaces with carb or brake cleaner after wire brushing or sanding is key to a proper bond. Most factory assembly workers don't trim the little nub of case gasket material off the base.

I like to go down to the farm and ranch supply store to grab a small syringe and about a 10 or 12 gauge syringe tip to use for drawing a perfect controlled bead. The permatex grey keeps for several uses in the syringe. The tip acts as a cap when it dries up.
One fail safe method is to use a really thin piece of paper and wet it on as a gasket so the sealer has something to bond to. Sometimes bolts rattle loose and a chunk of sealer can get sucked in if there isn't something to support it.

 

[isaaccarlson]

I put a thin layer on and let it sit for a minute before assembling. Enough that you can see it is enough if your surfaces are flat.

 

[Tor R]

I have started to use Locktite 518, let them cure over the night, most times a few days, never in rush to start up a saw.
According to Locktite homepage I shouldn't worry so much if crankcase is totally flat, seems 518 can handle a bit uneven surfaces, and if I should worry it's possible to use activator. Reading for those who is interested....
http://tds.henkel.com/tds5/docs/518-EN.PDF

We used to have lots of problems that our paint never dryed out completely when we spray painted boats where the air temperature got close to 5 deg celsius, and curing time could be close to 3-5 days before we could paint another layer, if it dryed out at all lol, that's when we started to add activator to our paint, the effect is extreme, at least 1/2 shorter curing time + it cure in colder temperature, for us it was probleby close to a day before we could continue our work.
Another thing with activator, you can build alot more tickness then what is normal, win win situation.....

 

[MustangMike]

Great stuff, thanks! So for most applications we do, I would say let it dry for at least 6 hrs, overnight is better, and highest overall strength w/o the activator!

I presume this also applies to all the Permatex stuff that starts with 518...

 

[Simondo]

Three Bond 1184 is worth a look...it has been fine in 2 saws iv done with it...no issues .

 

[Tor R]

Great stuff, thanks! So for most applications we do, I would say let it dry for at least 6 hrs, overnight is better, and highest overall strength w/o the activator!

I presume this also applies to all the Permatex stuff that starts with 518...

i think permatex and locktite is the same stuff so I would think it count for both, and yes, follow the cure time that permatex/locktite advise.

When you work with tickness, doesnt mather if it's sealant or paint, temperature and cure time goes together, but it is progresive rate, if you drop down from 24 degree celsius to 18 degree celsius you can tripple the cure time on paint, in general, for each degree it get colder as more hours curing time you can add, activcator change this alot.

I've worked as autobody mechanicer, but last 8 years I've done same type work with navy boats in Norway, maybe it's named filler work, thats where I learned properly what effect an activcator or accelerator can do, not only cure time but tickness as well

 

[DSS]

Three Bond 1184 is worth a look...it has been fine in 2 saws iv done with it...no issues .

This is what I use. A tube lasts a long time

 

[Simondo]

This is what I use. A tube lasts a long time

In my search for the 1194 it "appears " and i say this reservedly ...that 1184 is its replacement ??. I pondered if this was ok due to 1194 being the tried and tested three bond i had seen many of you boys use and if it was the "Only" safe thing to use ...but ..it seemed to be up to spec . One of the Husq 42 specials done with it has done 10 hrs proper hedge line trimming ...no issues .

 

[DSS]

In my search for the 1194 it "appears " and i say this reservedly ...that 1184 is its replacement ??. I pondered if this was ok due to 1194 being the tried and tested three bond i had seen many of you boys use and if it was the "Only" safe thing to use ...but ..it seemed to be up to spec . One of the Husq 42 specials done with it has done 10 hrs proper hedge line trimming ...no issues .

I know you can't buy 1194 any more, so you're probably right. I'm not sure why the numbers changed. That stuffs at least 4 years old, I bought two tubes and thats the second one. Only fault I can find is that it's very stringy.

I found motoseal runny, I like this better

 

[Simondo]

I know you can't buy 1194 any more, so you're probably right. I'm not sure why the numbers changed. That stuffs at least 4 years old, I bought two tubes and thats the second one. Only fault I can find is that it's very stringy.

I found motoseal runny, I like this better

Oh yea ..it can get you real messy if you don't have a plan ! Tried using my finger ..Hummm ! Wooden Tooth pick worked for me .