Brewz
Free Range Human in a Tax Farm
- Local time
- 5:54 PM
- User ID
- 550
- Joined
- Jan 16, 2016
- Messages
- 4,217
- Reaction score
- 14,302
- Location
- Hunter Valley - Australia
Howdy folks.
This thread starts with an 064 I sold a young fella starting out in contract fencing.
I rebuilt the saw from a split case, replacing anything that needed to be replaced.
I ran a tank or 2 through the saw after the rebuild to ensure it ran well before sale.
He rang me a day after he bought it saying it kept cutting out and now was completely dead.
I told him to bring it back and I could fix it, as he had paid good money for it on the premise it had been rebuilt and was good to go.
I removed the top cover and spark plug and held my breath as I looked in the cylinder........ still perfect and wet with oil.
With the spark plug out I put some wire in the in the spark plug boot and held it just above the cylinder top and pulled the motor over. No spark.
Fitted up a new lead and boot and still no spark so the old unlimited coil was dead.
I might post it to @jmssaws so he cant say he has never seen one
I told him he could leave it with me to fix or I could give him his money back. He couldn't believe I offered him this and said most blokes would tell him bad luck, have fun with it.
I told him I am not like that and would not be able to sleep at night knowing I had ripped off a young bloke trying to get a start at making a living.
I fitted up another old unlimited coil and matching flywheel I had here and it made no spark either.
cursing my bad luck, I fitted up a new lead and boot and it then pulled long bright blue sparks.
Happy again.
Fitted it all up and took it out to my parents farm to test it sectioning up some big log round quarters that the 22 tonne splitter wont split.
I had a lot of trouble getting it tuned and when it sat to idle it would hunt up and down, revving high then dropping off rich for a couple seconds then back up high and lean again.
When i got it home I found It had been happy running with L at 2 turns and H and 1/2 turn.
That told me it was sucking air at idle, and I needed to add more fuel with the L screw to get it to idle and was probably pooling the extra fuel while idling and then sucking it up causing the rich bog for a few seconds and then back to idle speed again.
I pulled the carb apart again and it was fine.
I then turned my attention to the intake boot.
It was the original OEM boot that came with the saw and was hole free and very flexible so I put it back in during the initial rebuild.
The issue I found was that the metal plate and gasket that seats on the back of the 064 carb would not push down flush to the rubber intake boot because the bulges on the sides where the carb mount rods sit were larger than the indents in the metal plate.
This in turn, i suspect, was pulling the boot inwards as the metal bracket pushed back on the boot humps when the carb was tightened down.
It had slots on the rubber that would have made a nice passage to let extra air in at idle, bypassing the carb.
See below how the metal humps bite into the boot humps as opposed to sitting over them:
See below the slits in the OEM 064 intake that would enlarge inward and the boot was pushed back when tightened:
I fitted an OEM 066 boot which has a smaller rubber flange surface but was plenty big enough to seal.
The 064 metal plate sat over this perfectly and pushed down flush to seal without pressure applied.
I bolted it all back together, set the carb screws to 1 and 1 turns and off she went like a new one.
I will give it another test tomorrow arvo to make sure its fixed before returning it to the owner.
This thread starts with an 064 I sold a young fella starting out in contract fencing.
I rebuilt the saw from a split case, replacing anything that needed to be replaced.
I ran a tank or 2 through the saw after the rebuild to ensure it ran well before sale.
He rang me a day after he bought it saying it kept cutting out and now was completely dead.
I told him to bring it back and I could fix it, as he had paid good money for it on the premise it had been rebuilt and was good to go.
I removed the top cover and spark plug and held my breath as I looked in the cylinder........ still perfect and wet with oil.
With the spark plug out I put some wire in the in the spark plug boot and held it just above the cylinder top and pulled the motor over. No spark.
Fitted up a new lead and boot and still no spark so the old unlimited coil was dead.
I might post it to @jmssaws so he cant say he has never seen one
I told him he could leave it with me to fix or I could give him his money back. He couldn't believe I offered him this and said most blokes would tell him bad luck, have fun with it.
I told him I am not like that and would not be able to sleep at night knowing I had ripped off a young bloke trying to get a start at making a living.
I fitted up another old unlimited coil and matching flywheel I had here and it made no spark either.
cursing my bad luck, I fitted up a new lead and boot and it then pulled long bright blue sparks.
Happy again.
Fitted it all up and took it out to my parents farm to test it sectioning up some big log round quarters that the 22 tonne splitter wont split.
I had a lot of trouble getting it tuned and when it sat to idle it would hunt up and down, revving high then dropping off rich for a couple seconds then back up high and lean again.
When i got it home I found It had been happy running with L at 2 turns and H and 1/2 turn.
That told me it was sucking air at idle, and I needed to add more fuel with the L screw to get it to idle and was probably pooling the extra fuel while idling and then sucking it up causing the rich bog for a few seconds and then back to idle speed again.
I pulled the carb apart again and it was fine.
I then turned my attention to the intake boot.
It was the original OEM boot that came with the saw and was hole free and very flexible so I put it back in during the initial rebuild.
The issue I found was that the metal plate and gasket that seats on the back of the 064 carb would not push down flush to the rubber intake boot because the bulges on the sides where the carb mount rods sit were larger than the indents in the metal plate.
This in turn, i suspect, was pulling the boot inwards as the metal bracket pushed back on the boot humps when the carb was tightened down.
It had slots on the rubber that would have made a nice passage to let extra air in at idle, bypassing the carb.
See below how the metal humps bite into the boot humps as opposed to sitting over them:
See below the slits in the OEM 064 intake that would enlarge inward and the boot was pushed back when tightened:
I fitted an OEM 066 boot which has a smaller rubber flange surface but was plenty big enough to seal.
The 064 metal plate sat over this perfectly and pushed down flush to seal without pressure applied.
I bolted it all back together, set the carb screws to 1 and 1 turns and off she went like a new one.
I will give it another test tomorrow arvo to make sure its fixed before returning it to the owner.
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