Electric chainsaws safer?

[Mastermind]

With wool argyle socks?

What else? Duh.

 

[Kiwioilboiler]

Like me?

LOL

You're both sexes?

 

[Mastermind]

You're both sexes?

I'm everything, to everyone. I am.

 

[Lightning Performance]

I consider all fire arms loaded, that’s my point.

Pull my finger ​

 

[Lightning Performance]

To that you could say they aren’t as safe because someone can’t hear one running if you’re falling tree, remember electric cars now have to have noise makers so they don’t hit pedestrians. I’d be curious if with electric you’re solid mounted I’m guessing how much of the vibration is from the chain alone vs the engine.


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

When the first guy gets killed because the tree fell with no sound... the lawsuits will start.

 

[Lightning Performance]

It is not a question of how dangerous a battery, corded or gas chainsaw is!
It is about how the operator uses them!

Go find the video of a guys wife test running his 880. She keeps the handle tucked in tight. I doubt she wants anything to do with a battery saw ironically.
The faces she makes, priceless


To answer an earlier question about chain vibration... it ain't the chain lol

 

[davidwyby]

derail : if I want good quality, good sized battery saw, what should I get?

 

[Philbert]

derail : if I want good quality, good sized battery saw, what should I get?

I think that Husqvarna probably has the best pro battery saw right now. But with their best battery, and a charger, it might set you back a grand.

(Pause. . . . wait for gasps, snorts, and guffaws . . . .)

In the $300 to $500 range you have more choices. Remember that the battery is half the saw, so look at the entire battery platform: what other tools it supports. And plan to have at least 2 batteries. If you already own some battery powered tools, check to see if there is a chainsaw in that family - might not be the best one, but could be a good choice.

Philbert

 

[walkdog]

derail : if I want good quality, good sized battery saw, what should I get?

Not sure any of them qualify as “good sized”, but the Husqvarna T540ixp is definitely the best I have used. Comes in a rear handle version as well. On the downside, the saw, charger, and two bli200x batteries will set you back over a grand. Also took many months to arrive after my dealer placed the order.

Of the cheaper, more readily available options, I think the Makita 18v x2 is head and shoulders above the rest. If you have other Makita cordless tools it is an incredible buy as it comes with 4 5ah 18v batteries which retail for almost as much alone as the saw and batteries combined.

 

[walkdog]

Re: safety, the situations where I find the battery saw really excels are on limb walks when I don’t have to use two hands to start the saw before reaching out to make end weight reductions, and any time I’m operating the saw near my face.

The lack of engine noise isn’t always a negative - sometimes it makes clear, concise communication much easier.

 

[davidwyby]

Thanks guys

I was thinking bigger and less $. Guess I’ll have to wait for tech to advance.

 

[Philbert]

You can rent one at HD to try. Or by one at a place that lets you return it if not satisfied.

STIHL, Husqvarna, Greenworks, Kobalt , Oregon, ECHO, Makita . . . all have models under $400 complete. They will work well where you would normally use a 16" / 40cc saw.

Philbert

 

[USMC615]

derail : if I want good quality, good sized battery saw, what should I get?

Makita 18V x 2 (36V) saws are good. Nothing wrong with a DeWalt 60V Flexvolt chainsaw as well…only two I’ve ran and both are pretty decent battery saws.

 

[MarkEagleUSA]

When the first guy gets killed because the tree fell with no sound... the lawsuits will start.

My Husky 120i is almost as loud as a circular saw. They're not silent by any stretch.

 

[SpaceBus]

Makita 18V x 2 (36V) saws are good. Nothing wrong with a DeWalt 60V Flexvolt chainsaw as well…only two I’ve ran and both are pretty decent battery saws.

I think about a flexvolt saw sometimes since I already have a ton of 20v and 60v batteries and it would be nice to have a saw for cutting obstructions off of logs for the mill. I use my Stihl MS150, which does start easy, but having something that starts right now and can cut knobs off would be a nicety.

 

[tek9tim]

The first page seems filled with lots of "well, I heard..." with no hands on experience.

Cordless saws have chain brakes. Those chain brakes have microswitches in them that won't let power go to the motor if the brake is engaged.

The Makitas I own and the Stihls I've run will cut off power to the motor if they sense too much load. Folks running cordless saws for the first time will stall them a lot if they're used to how hard they can push on gas saws. This torque limitation applies at start up as well. You generally can't start the saw if the chain is touching wood, even if it's in a kerf and the chain is only touching the sides of the kerf. You can easily stop a cordless saw by pushing it into a limb that a gas saw would blow through with the same pressure. There's a heck of a lot less rotating mass in a cordless saw, and considering the fact that the power is cut off once a high torque load is applied, the ability of a cordless saw to cut through a pair of chaps is way less.

Lastly, if your cutting area control is dependent on the noise of your saw to keep folks away, you need to reassess your process. Cordless saws aren't silent either, they still put out enough noise that OSHA would require hearing protection, though that is a low bar.

The ability to underestimate a cordless saw is very real though. From a purely equipment standpoint, ignoring human factors, I'll go ahead and say that cordless saws are safer.

 

[Jason628]

I hardly ever wear ppe and have never managed to hurt myself. Done some crazy stuff with some *s-wordty equipment. I'm getting older now... started wearing safety glasses. Haha. The e saws do look handy for the arborist type of work.... glad I don't do that stuff anymore... amazing that I was never killed or severely injured. I didn't know there was such a thing as "chainsaw safety classes" I could probably teach the "what not to do" part of that class. The small company I worked for did a lot of "winging" it. The days they went out without me they were always breaking stuff, dropping trees on power lines, dropping trees on buildings or dropping trees on their trucks. *s-word was hysterical... some days I miss the chaos.