Efco grinders??

[S&S_Work_Saws]

I've always hand sharpened everything. Didn't much case for the concept of the grinder.
I've got a friend closing down a small engine. He called me today and told me to come out and he'd give me some saw equipment for free.
He gave me a pair of grinders. One of them says it's an efco I believe and the other looks identical just a different color.

Are these grinders going to produce a sharp chain if setup correctly or are they known to have issues??

Sorry but I know absolutely nothing about grinding chain.

 

[Philbert]

They were likely made by Tecomec, and identical to Oregon.

Good deal. Wheels and parts are available.

Attached, is my guide for grinding ‘newbies’.

Philbert

“New to Grinding

Keep in mind that grinders don’t sharpen the chains: you sharpen the chains.

For guys new to grinding I recommend taking an old or ‘scrap’ chain, and experimenting with it, before you work on your ‘good’ chains:

- ‘play’ with every adjustment on the grinder separately, and see what each does to the cutter profile;

- intentionally try to overheat, or ‘burn’ a cutter, then work backwards to see how to avoid that (lots of small taps, no sustained contact );

- place a sharp chain that you like in the grinder, with the power ‘Off’, and try to ‘copy’ those angles and settings with the grinder adjustment (and write those settings down);

- profile the rim of the grinding wheel, with the dressing brick, then lightly dress the wheel once per chain loop, to continuously expose fresh, sharp, abrasive;

- practice, and don’t worry about speed - that will come with experience.“

 

[S&S_Work_Saws]

They both work and have reverse. They also say "made it Italy".

 

[S&S_Work_Saws]

They were likely made by Tecomec, and identical to Oregon.

Good deal. Wheels and parts are available.

Attached, is my guide for grinding ‘newbies’.

Philbert

“New to Grinding

Keep in mind that grinders don’t sharpen the chains: you sharpen the chains.

For guys new to grinding I recommend taking an old or ‘scrap’ chain, and experimenting with it, before you work on your ‘good’ chains:

- ‘play’ with every adjustment on the grinder separately, and see what each does to the cutter profile;

- intentionally try to overheat, or ‘burn’ a cutter, then work backwards to see how to avoid that (lots of small taps, no sustained contact );

- place a sharp chain that you like in the grinder, with the power ‘Off’, and try to ‘copy’ those angles and settings with the grinder adjustment (and write those settings down);

- profile the rim of the grinding wheel, with the dressing brick, then lightly dress the wheel once per chain loop, to continuously expose fresh, sharp, abrasive;

- practice, and don’t worry about speed - that will come with experience.“

I am definitely going to read this in depth and see what I can make happen. Who knows, maybe I'll learn to love grinders

 

[Philbert]

Tecomec. Older style. Also sold with ‘Oregon’ label. People like them due to the reversible motor. Very reliable.

Not sure if owner’s manuals are still available, but the manual for the slightly later Oregon 511A (non-reversible) is.

I’d clean them up, but that’s me.

Some missing parts available at hardware store (probably metric). Other parts from Oregon or Tecomec dealer, like ArcherPlus on eBay (importer).

Wheels are pretty standard size. I like Tecomec, Oregon, or Molemab vitrified wheels. Some guys will tell you to buy CBN wheels.

With 2 grinders, you can set one up for smaller pitch chain (1/8” grinding wheel) and one for larger pitch chain (3/16” wheel).

Or, one for sharpening cutters, and one for adjusting depth gauges (1/4” or 5/16” wheel).

Or keep one for parts.

Philbert

 

[S&S_Work_Saws]

Tecomec. Older style. Also sold with ‘Oregon’ label. People like them due to the reversible motor. Very reliable.

Not sure if owner’s manuals are still available, but the manual for the slightly later Oregon 511A (non-reversible) is.

I’d clean them up, but that’s me.

Some missing parts available at hardware store (probably metric). Other parts from Oregon or Tecomec dealer, like ArcherPlus on eBay (importer).

Wheels are pretty standard size. I like Tecomec, Oregon, or Molemab vitrified wheels. Some guys will tell you to buy CBN wheels.

With 2 grinders, you can set one up for smaller pitch chain (1/8” grinding wheel) and one for larger pitch chain (3/16” wheel).

Or, one for sharpening cutters, and one for adjusting depth gauges (1/4” or 5/16” wheel).

Or keep one for parts.

Philbert

Thanks for all of the info!! I cleaned up one of them already and just sharpened a chain with it. I guess tomorrow we'll see how it cuts. Looks like it did great though

 

[Philbert]

This is a helpful thread on ‘the other site’:

511A Grinder - Improvements / Tweaks?

I read some of the threads on tweaking the Northern Tool grinders, and thought that we ought to have one for the venerable Oregon 511A (and related Italian grinders). This model does not have the same quality issues as the knock-offs, and I know that it has been replaced by the 511AX, but there...

www.arboristsite.com

Philbert

 

[huskihl]

Don’t give up on it if your first time doesn’t look right or doesn’t cut great. I did. About six months later my arms were tired of filing the same chain 4–5 times every day. And even then I was wondering if the cutters were dull because of my filing inconsistencies or if my rakers were too high. So I spent a whole day trying to figure the ins and outs of my grinder. Now I leave feeler gauges and a straight edge laying right next to the grinder and each time I put a different chain on it I check them to see where they’re at. And my cutters all look the same. Life is good

 

[Hinerman]

Don’t give up on it if your first time doesn’t look right or doesn’t cut great. I did. About six months later my arms were tired of filing the same chain 4–5 times every day. And even then I was wondering if the cutters were dull because of my filing inconsistencies or if my rakers were too high. So I spent a whole day trying to figure the ins and outs of my grinder. Now I leave feeler gauges and a straight edge laying right next to the grinder and each time I put a different chain on it I check them to see where they’re at. And my cutters all look the same. Life is good

^^^^This. I don't know if I will ever hand file a chain again...

 

[heimannm]

Different size chains require different size (thickness) wheels...I got tired of switching them back and forth and sometimes forgetting, so I have one set up with a 3/16" wheel for .404 and 3/8 chains, one with a 1/8" wheel for 3/8 LP and .325 chains, and one with a 5/16" wheel for the depth gauges (Philbert please note: I did not say "rakers"...). There is also a bar rail grinder (from Baileys) on the lazy susan.



I sharpen a lot of chains for other people, and they often run them into the dirt, rocks, fence posts, etc., grinding is a much quicker and easier way to restore all the cutters to a uniform shape and length. I have a straight edge and feeler gauges in the top drawer to check and adjust the depth gauges as needed.

Mark

 

[Hinerman]

Different size chains require different size (thickness) wheels...I got tired of switching them back and forth and sometimes forgetting, so I have one set up with a 3/16" wheel for .404 and 3/8 chains, one with a 1/8" wheel for 3/8 LP and .325 chains, and one with a 5/16" wheel for the depth gauges (Philbert please note: I did not say "rakers"...). There is also a bar rail grinder (from Baileys) on the lazy susan.

View attachment 443662

I sharpen a lot of chains for other people, and they often run them into the dirt, rocks, fence posts, etc., grinding is a much quicker and easier way to restore all the cutters to a uniform shape and length. I have a straight edge and feeler gauges in the top drawer to check and adjust the depth gauges as needed.

Mark

I have an old 511 for rocked chains, and .325; and 2 USGs, one for cutters (3/8+), one for rakers. I don't mind changing the wheels on the USG when needed. I have very little .325 chain anyway.

 

[Woodtroll]

Different size chains require different size (thickness) wheels...I got tired of switching them back and forth and sometimes forgetting, so I have one set up with a 3/16" wheel for .404 and 3/8 chains, one with a 1/8" wheel for 3/8 LP and .325 chains, and one with a 5/16" wheel for the depth gauges (Philbert please note: I did not say "rakers"...). There is also a bar rail grinder (from Baileys) on the lazy susan.

View attachment 443662

I sharpen a lot of chains for other people, and they often run them into the dirt, rocks, fence posts, etc., grinding is a much quicker and easier way to restore all the cutters to a uniform shape and length. I have a straight edge and feeler gauges in the top drawer to check and adjust the depth gauges as needed.

Mark

Nice setup. I like that lazy susan idea, and also the bar/flat stock/long whatever-it-is storage behind the cabinet.

 

[Hinerman]

Don’t give up on it if your first time doesn’t look right or doesn’t cut great. I did. About six months later my arms were tired of filing the same chain 4–5 times every day. And even then I was wondering if the cutters were dull because of my filing inconsistencies or if my rakers were too high. So I spent a whole day trying to figure the ins and outs of my grinder. Now I leave feeler gauges and a straight edge laying right next to the grinder and each time I put a different chain on it I check them to see where they’re at. And my cutters all look the same. Life is good

feeler gauges? Help a non-mechanical guy out...

 

[heimannm]

Lay a straight edge across the top of the teeth, and use the feeler gauges to check the clearance for the depth gauge. Depending on the saw, the chain, and the amount of wear I set the depth gauges anywhere from 0.020" to 0.040" +++ Old gear drive saws with 1/2" pitch chain can be 0.060 to 0.080". I use a piece of 1/2" square stock about 6" long to make it easier to lay it on the teeth.

Mark

 

[huskihl]

feeler gauges? Help a non-mechanical guy out...

They go from .002” up to .040”ish

 

[heimannm]

Straightedge on top of the chain.



Check the clearance between the depth gauge and the straightedge.





Straightedge, feeler gauges, paint pen to mark the cutters so I know where to start/stop, and my "reversing switch" for the red grinder. The other two have been modified with a rocker switch to change rotation. On the red one I just give it a spin with the drill and hit the switch and it continues to run "backwards".



Mark

 

[S&S_Work_Saws]

So what angles are most of you guys grinding for a flat top 3/8 chain? 30° & 60°? Do you prefer a different set of angles on smaller chain?

 

[huskihl]

I run 25/55. Seems like a good combination of staying sharp and cutting quick. I don’t mess with the slide/file tilt setting. I’ve never been able to tell a difference.

Like anything, sharper angles will cut quicker but dull quicker. And more blunt options will do the opposite

 

[S&S_Work_Saws]

I run 25/55. Seems like a good combination of staying sharp and cutting quick. I don’t mess with the slide/file tilt setting. I’ve never been able to tell a difference.

Like anything, sharper angles will cut quicker but dull quicker. And more blunt options will do the opposite

Dont need to change any of the angles for chisel and semi-chisel chains?
What about for milling? I've had guys tell me they run all the way down to 0° for milling. Ive used 25° to 30°, milling oak with a husky 395xp and never had an issue.

 

[Philbert]

25° hard or frozen wood
30° general, mixed wood
35° soft wood

All at 55 or 60° head tilt.

Milling chains generally 5° to 10° top plate angle.

Philbert