whitesnake
Pinnacle OPE Member
I agree…Klingon all the wayI am fond of the US Style 1 spikes.
Nothing pimp about it either, I simply buck a whole lot of oak and turkey oak and the Klingon/Star Trek dogs suit the job best.
View attachment 446090
I agree…Klingon all the wayI am fond of the US Style 1 spikes.
Nothing pimp about it either, I simply buck a whole lot of oak and turkey oak and the Klingon/Star Trek dogs suit the job best.
View attachment 446090
I needed a red top in my collection. And she‘s a ˋpocket battleshipˋ with a ported 7900 top end.View attachment 436526View attachment 436527
I saw that ad and it was tempting! I’ve missed out on 3 7900’s this past year that were priced right. They go fast!Missed out on one just like this for $200 in fond du lac..
I saw that ad and it was tempting! I’ve missed out on 3 7900’s this past year that were priced right. They go fast!
My DCS7901 came with the US style 1 spikes. I didn't like the looks of them, I was used to the stihl spikes. But after I used them on big bank trees I decided they were the best I've used. They have grown on me and I like the looks of them now.
Now all my makitas get the US style 1 spikes if they are available.
What grade of steel is best you think mate?Have a CAD file of these spikes if anyone wants a 3 point style
Bottom spike prob could be dropped slightly.
Have a CAD file of these spikes if anyone wants a 3 point style
Bottom spike prob could be dropped slightly.
Used high tensile/HT80 3mm.What grade of steel is best you think mate?
After testing, pop the jug off, the cylinder may still be in good shape and you might only need a piston. I worked on a saw not long ago that someone didn't let warm up, just fired it up and went to town. Ended up the piston was toast on the exhaust side with minor transfer to the cylinder that came off without much effort. $25 later with a new piston, the saw is up and running!Time to vac / pressure test and see why, but who has the best deal on an OEM P&C kit?
I already cleaned the transfer off this cylinder and rebuilt with a new piston (several years ago) when I bought it as a basket case. I'm afraid the plating is going to get thin if I clean it up too many times. I suspect that tuning is to blame for this one. I didn't adjust the saw today, and it's single digits out. It was definitely above freezing last time I ran it. Chances are this is my bad, but such is life when you play with things that burn fuel and rotate quickly.After testing, pop the jug off, the cylinder may still be in good shape and you might only need a piston. I worked on a saw not long ago that someone didn't let warm up, just fired it up and went to town. Ended up the piston was toast on the exhaust side with minor transfer to the cylinder that came off without much effort. $25 later with a new piston, the saw is up and running!
Always a possibility you may have had an air leak from one of the seals, double check that your bearings area good. I was recently working on a saw, got it together and ran it up. Had to take it back down to work on something and found that the flywheel side bearing had some play. Its not my saw, I almost put it back together and sent it back, but thought better of it and replaced the bearings. Glad I did. I also replaced the piston too and now this saw has some really good compression and I know there won't be an issue with a wobbly bearing.Chances are this is my bad, but such is life when you play with things that burn fuel and rotate quickly.
This is why I don't tune my saws by "four stroke under load" sound.I already cleaned the transfer off this cylinder and rebuilt with a new piston (several years ago) when I bought it as a basket case. I'm afraid the plating is going to get thin if I clean it up too many times. I suspect that tuning is to blame for this one. I didn't adjust the saw today, and it's single digits out. It was definitely above freezing last time I ran it. Chances are this is my bad, but such is life when you play with things that burn fuel and rotate quickly.
HLSupply is out of stock.Dangit. I was cutting some wood with my 7900 on my lunch break and my saw shut off mid cut. I ran back to the house and pulled it down quick just to find out it's scored on the exhaust side. Time to vac / pressure test and see why, but who has the best deal on an OEM P&C kit? I would like to stay stock 52mm if at all possible, but they ain't cheap...
sleequipment.com
I would try cleaning it again, the plating on OEM cylinders (at least on Stihl saws) is pretty darn good.I already cleaned the transfer off this cylinder and rebuilt with a new piston (several years ago)
That was a heck of a good price. One is on the way.HLSupply is out of stock.
You better hop to it!
That price is actually great all things considered.
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Makita Genuine Part 038-130-071 CYLINDER+PISTON D=52, EA7900P
038-130-071 - SLE Equipment is a full line Distributor and carries 99% of all lines in the outdoor power equipment industry. Our search can be utilized to find parts for outdoor equipment from the top manufacturers in lawn equipment.sleequipment.com
From what I understand, the top of the exhaust port is not as critical as the bottom, so after cleaning it up and smoothing any boogers, you might have a good backup!. I might even play around and clean up the chipped cylinder anyway, and stuff an HL supply piston in it just to see how it does.
Do you have a picture of the chunk out of the exhaust port?Bad news guys. The ring caught the top of the exhaust port during the carnage, and took a large chunk out, so I think this OEM red top cylinder has had it. P&V test passed at least, so on to cleaning and getting a new top end on the way.




