Dolmar 64xx/73xx/79xx series, smurfs and solo 665/675/681 thread

[Powerstroke Cowboy]

My 7901 wants a 24" bar.

 

[blades]

Oregon D009 is the mount type or anything else that cross to this like large mount husky bars

 

[Wilhelm]

My 7901 wants a 24" bar.

Yeah, the 73xx & 79xx want load!

 

[old_sir_henry]

My 7901 wants a 24" bar.

What about 32" ?

 

[Powerstroke Cowboy]

What about 32" ?

View attachment 384048

I'll save that for the stroked big bore.

Nice saw!! I do believe the 64xx 73xx and 79xx model saws are best looking out of all chainsaws. So I might be biased.

 

[Wilhelm]

What about 32" ?

View attachment 384048

Pu$$y!

36", 3/8" 115DL hillbilly skip!

 

[Powerstroke Cowboy]

Pu$$y!

36", 3/8" 115DL hillbilly skip!

Does the oiler keep up okay with that length bar/chain combo?

Nice saw!

I have been thinking about switching to .404 chain on mine due to all the dirt in our wood. I just wonder how well it would work. There more wood being cut with the .404 vs 3/8.

 

[Wilhelm]

Does the oiler keep up okay with that length bar/chain combo?

Nice saw!

I have been thinking about switching to .404 chain on mine due to all the dirt in our wood. I just wonder how well it would work. There more wood being cut with the .404 vs 3/8.

OK, I know I will burn for writing this!

The 64/73/79xx oil pump pushes more than enough oil to the bar & consequently chain to run a 36" B&C setup!
In case You feel there is not enough oil try running the PH WOT with no bar and clutch cover and tell me the gush of oil is insufficient.
There is indeed often a "built in" choke point that hinders oil flow to the chains DL's - those damn tiny oiler holes on the modern bars, they reduced in size by 1/3rd compared to old school bars.
Those same oiler holes are also often not aligned to the oiler slot on the saws PH, I have noticed off set holes that barely peek over the PH oiler slot.
Take a caliper, check alignment and grind the hole open accordingly - towards the oiler slot if it is out of alignment, or oval/sideways if everything is aligned.
By simply reducing back pressure You will get significantly more oil to the chain.

Also, B&C oil "tackyness" and thickness is counterproductive - more load/wear on the pump, less oil to the chain, higher chain moving resistance.
And no, not all of the oil gets flung off at the bars tip using thinner oil, on the contrary it gets forced from between the chains DL's into all crevices of the chains individual parts thusly lubricating them, including the bottom sides of the chains tie straps that run on the bars rails.
You do not need puddles of oil to lubricate things, You are perfectly fine with a thin film of oil on all friction surfaces - just think of the tiny amount of oil keeping the insides of a 2-stroke engine alive.


Compared to 3/8" .404" places a much higher load on a given PH.
I tried .404" on a shorter B&C setup and feel it is counterproductive for my purposes.
Give Husqvarna X-Cut a try, it is priced OK and I am impressed with its stay sharp in muddy skidded logs - I'll be getting a spare loop or two this week.

Take the above as what it is, the ramblings of a homeowner firewood hack.
I don't know much of anything, but I know what saves me time and money, as such I'd like to think that not everything I write is just BS.

Cheers

 

[Powerstroke Cowboy]

OK, I know I will burn for writing this!

The 64/73/79xx oil pump pushes more than enough oil to the bar & consequently chain to run a 36" B&C setup!
In case You feel there is not enough oil try running the PH WOT with no bar and clutch cover and tell me the gush of oil is insufficient.
There is indeed often a "built in" choke point that hinders oil flow to the chains DL's - those damn tiny oiler holes on the modern bars, they reduced in size by 1/3rd compared to old school bars.
Those same oiler holes are also often not aligned to the oiler slot on the saws PH, I have noticed off set holes that barely peek over the PH oiler slot.
Take a caliper, check alignment and grind the hole open accordingly - towards the oiler slot if it is out of alignment, or oval/sideways if everything is aligned.
By simply reducing back pressure You will get significantly more oil to the chain.

Also, B&C oil "tackyness" and thickness is counterproductive - more load/wear on the pump, less oil to the chain, higher chain moving resistance.
And no, not all of the oil gets flung off at the bars tip using thinner oil, on the contrary it gets forced from between the chains DL's into all crevices of the chains individual parts thusly lubricating them, including the bottom sides of the chains tie straps that run on the bars rails.
You do not need puddles of oil to lubricate things, You are perfectly fine with a thin film of oil on all friction surfaces - just think of the tiny amount of oil keeping the insides of a 2-stroke engine alive.


Compared to 3/8" .404" places a much higher load on a given PH.
I tried .404" on a shorter B&C setup and feel it is counterproductive for my purposes.
Give Husqvarna X-Cut a try, it is priced OK and I am impressed with its stay sharp in muddy skidded logs - I'll be getting a spare loop or two this week.

Take the above as what it is, the ramblings of a homeowner firewood hack.
I don't know much of anything, but I know what saves me time and money, as such I'd like to think that not everything I write is just BS.

Cheers

Thank you for your thoughts and opinion on the given subject. I will keep what you said in mind about the X-Cut from Husqvarna. The wood I deal with is dirty.

 

[Wilhelm]

Round ground about half life 56DL 3/8" X-Cut on my Dolmar PS-550 and the state of the logs I was bucking.
This was on the third tank of fuel.
It did take front handle down pressure to get the chain to bite, but the bucking spikes did not get utilized.



This was the above chain after hitting a severe mud patch just after bucking up that log, still finished bucking the mud patch log.
Very durable chain!

 

[Kiwioilboiler]

So my pawn shop 7301 turned up. She's well used. Tank grip has taken a hit. Air filter pics included for the kinkos, and because I never will understand how some people will run equipment like this.
Muffler bolts were loose which caused me to draw breath incase someone had already taken a look and found some bad news, but piston looked fine so just more bad maintenance.
Fuel and oiled it and it popped after three pulls.
Isn't oiling so I'll investigate that.
@Wilhelm can you tell me its age from the s/n pic mate?

 

[Powerstroke Cowboy]

Nice find!! Should be a 2008 model.

 

[davidwyby]

Piston is fine cuz it was runnin nice n rich cuz it couldn’t get air

 

[Wilhelm]

So my pawn shop 7301 turned up. She's well used. Tank grip has taken a hit. Air filter pics included for the kinkos, and because I never will understand how some people will run equipment like this.
Muffler bolts were loose which caused me to draw breath incase someone had already taken a look and found some bad news, but piston looked fine so just more bad maintenance.
Fuel and oiled it and it popped after three pulls.
Isn't oiling so I'll investigate that.
@Wilhelm can you tell me its age from the s/n pic mate?
View attachment 384458View attachment 384459View attachment 384460View attachment 384461View attachment 384462

Nice find!! Should be a 2008 model.

6 digits are SN., so yes she should be a 2008.

 

[Wilhelm]

So my pawn shop 7301 turned up. She's well used. Tank grip has taken a hit. Air filter pics included for the kinkos, and because I never will understand how some people will run equipment like this.
Muffler bolts were loose which caused me to draw breath incase someone had already taken a look and found some bad news, but piston looked fine so just more bad maintenance.
Fuel and oiled it and it popped after three pulls.
Isn't oiling so I'll investigate that.
@Wilhelm can you tell me its age from the s/n pic mate?
View attachment 384458View attachment 384459View attachment 384460View attachment 384461View attachment 384462

Nice find!! Should be a 2008 model.

6 digits are SN., so yes she should be a 2008.

 

[Wilhelm]

Piston is fine cuz it was runnin nice n rich cuz it couldn’t get air

You wouldn't believe how often this saves a 2-stroke engines life, although at the risk of carbon buildup getting loose and between the P&C.

 

[Wilhelm]

 

[3browns]

OK, I must have slept through class one day because I am lost

At the risk of exposing myself as the idiot I am, how is there a 2008 Dolmar with a Makita sticker and Makita colors?

I didn't think the Makita transition happened until much later

What the hell info am i missing here?

 

[Shane¹]

Don't quote me on any of this but Makita bought dolmar in the early 90s I believe 91. then they made dolmar and Makita both mixed and matched colors and branding all a big mess. @Wilhelm @old_sir_henry know a lot about dolmar history I am sure they will be along soon to correct me

 

[Steve]

Makita didn't switch to dolmar orange and drop the dolmar name until I think 2013. Pre that dolmar and Makita were marketed as separate companies. Makita was teal and used a DCS prefix while dolmar was orange and used a PS prefix.

So with your saw being pre consolidation it is true dolmar orange and labeled such as a PS6400. The Makita version would have been teal and a DCS6401.