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Dolmar 64xx/73xx/79xx series, smurfs and solo 665/675/681 thread

Wilhelm

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Been awhile since i've used my 7901 in anger, camping over the weekend and there was a big (4' barrel) gum tree dead over the track, nice dead branch at waist height, bought a smile to my face quickly slicing up the below. Other campers nearby were using battery saws or small/blunt sounding saws and battling away.

View attachment 381131
When I go for a BBQ in the nature I always bring a nimble saw along and a beast just in case.
Onlookers tend to be stumped when the beast comes out to play - always a fun experience.

Recently the "little one" is my Makita UC250 36Volt battery saw, it used to be my Sachs-Dolmar 108 though.
My "big girl" has always been either my Dolmar PS-7900 or PS-7310 with 24/36" bars.
36" bars are non existent in my area, people can't believe that there are chainsaws able to pull it and do so without stalling.
 

Hulsty

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I have been contemplating carry a 28'' bar too, when we go out 4x4ing its not that uncommon to come across very big trees over the tracks. Most my mates carry a big saw too, mainly 661's, 390's and 3120's, look good fun to run.
 

old_sir_henry

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Remember back in 2018 when Makita/Dolmar had issued a product recall for the entire PS-6400 - PS-7910 range of chainsaws?
Some boffin had figured the chain brake might possibly engange too slowly in case of kickback under certain non-disclosed circumstances.
Makita issued a product-recall on their websites asking every owner to send back their saws for a free hardware-fix.

Good and reasonable manufacturer's move so far.

I had talked to my contact at Makita/Dolmar tech-support and asked him whether to send back my 7900 to have the fix applied or not.
He recommended to not apply the fix but rather make sure to look after the break and the lever-cascade (the one behind the black plastic cover) in particular and make sure they're kept clean and well lubricated.
The reason for his of course entirely unofficial recommendation was: The DOLMAR engineers in Hamburg had suggested to replace the lever-cascade with an improved version but the parent-companie's bean-counters (Makita Germany, that is) refused it but rather insisted on the solution finally rolled out: Simply bolt an additional metal bar onto the brake flag to add inertia and thus force the brake to engage faster.
This doesn't sound bad at all but my pal also told me, the engineers expected to see broken saw bodies with the fix applied since the additional mass would increase stress on the break flag's hinge which had been a comparably weak part to start with.

Here is the predicted result, found in an ad in german classifieds, the bolted on weight bar visible at the pic's right edge:

Screen Shot 2023-06-18 at 16.07.59.pngScreen Shot 2023-06-18 at 16.08.39.png

For me it looks like exactly like what the DOLMAR-engineers had anticipated.
 

Wilhelm

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German/Dolmar engineers tend to be smart and overbuild things.

Business folk like Makita headquarters only want to make products as cheap as possible in order to boost stockholder profits.

There are at least three more "changes" that I am aware of that have been made to the 64-79xx series saws that created issues with product functionality and reliability.
 

Wilhelm

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Would you like to name them ?
This is one of the issues I know of they admitted to issuing a recall.
Lightened flywheel coming apart.


 

Wilhelm

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And then there are these that I noticed:

1) Chain tensioner getting stuck when trying to release the bar.
The initial units had a dark gray colored tensioner bolt looking out the side of the clutch cover - these would tighten & release with next to no force with the supplied OEM scrench.
During ongoing production that tensioner changed to a black color (change of supplier?!) and these would get stuck not allowing the release of bar tension forcing users to pry the clutch cover off the PH & bar.
I have read several user reports about this issue.
The fix is, FORCE the tensioner tight & loose a dozen times or more and it may work itself loose - or get a old style gray colored tensioner.

2) They changed the clutch drum (change of supplier again?!).
The old original drum was perfectly aligned to the bars tail and it featured a beefy "open" roller bearing allowing easy cleaning and lubrication.
The "new" drum does not align to the bars tail but is off set outwards by 1mm or more, this causes the chains drive links to ride the bar tails outer rail causing wear to the bar and chain.
Also, the new drum received a pressed in closed style needle bearing - I have had stuff getting in there and blocking it from turning freely and it was a PITA to clean it out.
The fix: I don't wanna say for the new drum off set issue as to not be held accountable for improper alterations and consequent damages & injuries - but mine are not off set anymore, no DL's nor bar tails are getting chewed up.
There is no fix for that tiny needle bearing other than checking and lubricating it frequently.
P.S.: 100% safe and easy fix - revert to the old original style drum and bearing! Every now and then they pop up on eBay.
 
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SOS Ridgerider

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And then there are these that I noticed:

1) Chain tensioner getting stuck when trying to release the bar.
The initial units had a dark gray colored tensioner bolt looking out the side of the clutch cover - these would tighten & release with next to no force with the supplied OEM scrench.
During ongoing production that tensioner changed to a black color (change of supplier?!) and these would get stuck not allowing the release of bar tension forcing users to pry the clutch cover off the PH & bar.
I have read several user reports about this issue.
The fix is, FORCE the tensioner tight & loose a dozen times or more and it may work itself loose - or get a old style gray colored tensioner.

2) They changed the clutch drum (change of supplier again?!).
The old original drum was perfectly aligned to the bars tail and it featured a beefy "open" roller bearing allowing easy cleaning and lubrication.
The "new" drum does not align to the bars tail but is off set outwards by 1mm or more, this causes the chains drive links to ride the bar tails outer rail causing wear to the bar and chain.
Also, the new drum received a pressed in closed style needle bearing - I have had stuff getting in there and blocking it from turning freely and it was a PITA to clean it out.
The fix: I don't wanna say for the new drum off set issue as to not be held accountable for improper alterations and consequent damages & injuries - but mine are not off set anymore, no DL's nor bar tails are getting chewed up.
There is no fix for that tiny needle bearing other than checking and lubricating it frequently.
P.S.: 100% safe and easy fix - revert to the old original style drum and bearing! Every now and then they pop up on eBay.
I press those little bearings out and replace them. Unless we’re talking about something different than what I’m thinking about.
I can’t remember the number in that bearing, but I bought a few on eBay.
 

Hulsty

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My 7901 has had the receall fix done, might dig into it a little more now, After the recall though, I did snap a brake band, no idea if related or not. Now have a spare band at home and adding another to my long term spare parts.
 

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Powerstroke Cowboy

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Mostly because @Wilhelm never shuts up about how good these are, i put a sniper bid on this pawnshop clearance 7301.
Muffler mod is all it will get if it's mechanically sound. The SLR? ones do require some effort tho if I recall correctly?
View attachment 383223
Nice saw! It almost looks mint in that picture.

The just require a little more chopping is all.

Nice find!
 

Wilhelm

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Mostly because @Wilhelm never shuts up about how good these are, i put a sniper bid on this pawnshop clearance 7301.
Muffler mod is all it will get if it's mechanically sound. The SLR? ones do require some effort tho if I recall correctly?
View attachment 383223
Mission accomplished!
Another sucker bought into my bulls#hit and got one of these. 😜

On these I find it easy to do MM'S, both bird cage & SLR.
Gut the muffler and open up the stock outlet, that's it!
Sure, the majority will argue that You need to add another 1" outlet.
Just go with what feels right by You.
 
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