High Quality Chainsaw Bars Husqvarna Toys Hockfire Saws

Dolmar 64xx/73xx/79xx series, smurfs and solo 665/675/681 thread

whitesnake

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Mmmm 51xx...id like a ported one with heat! Hey Mason...what's your opinion on that versacut bar? Been looking at maybe picking up a few. Fairly cheap and light. You got quite a bit of time on it eh?
 

huskyboy

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Mmmm 51xx...id like a ported one with heat! Hey Mason...what's your opinion on that versacut bar? Been looking at maybe picking up a few. Fairly cheap and light. You got quite a bit of time on it eh?
I think I can best summarize it as a good bar for the money. Wayyy better than cheap chinese/taiwan bars and almost the same cost. It’s not a Cannon... but what is? Lol
 
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Wilhelm

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Generally my chains are never that loose nor jump the rail to even touch the catcher, as such I have no beef with the design nor functionality of it. ;)

Just saying. :)
 

ferris

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Generally my chains are never that loose nor jump the rail to even touch the catcher, as such I have no beef with the design nor functionality of it. ;)

Just saying. :)
The chain can brake at any tension ;)
throwing a chain can happen also ;)
So u need a chain catcher and the stihl roller catcher can be fit on nearly any saw
 

Wilhelm

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The chain can brake at any tension ;)
throwing a chain can happen also ;)
So u need a chain catcher and the stihl roller catcher can be fit on nearly any saw
The only chain brand that ever snapped on me is TriLink, two out of two.
There is an easy fix - I won't buy any no more!
Still got three more to wear out though.

Not a single Oregon/Dolmar loop ever broke on me, and I make them really aggressive depending what saw I sharpen them for.
Neither of my three play chains broke thus far either, even though they are quite weakened and aggressive at the same time.

But I like that Stihl roller catch, I will look into getting a couple for my saws. :)
 

huskihl

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On the new 7900s, They use a big thick chain catcher that’s only about a half inch away from the chain as it sits on the bar. I bend them down away from the bar a little bit or remove them and add a roller catcher
 

huskyboy

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Normally I gut these saws completely. But I went about it a different way this time out of interest for making something that doesn’t blow my ears out after 5 hours. Screen still intact.2BA5DEB0-48D8-4371-89F7-D443B377B17E.jpegCD6A096A-C4AF-4DB3-ACE3-9847502962DC.jpeg A47EBF1B-FA6B-4084-A28D-D60D59152406.jpegC03B12C3-3A99-41BC-A67A-7A2DD5C611F6.jpegF1F8DD4C-4E41-419C-9B41-716477DC8B3B.jpeg
 

Lightning Performance

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huskyboy

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Well the plastic oiler nub finally wore after about 250,000 bd feet on it, easy fix. I only had the black nub leftover from the rebuild kit I got for another saw. The offset is a little less than the white one so I just did a oiler mod and increased the ramp .025 to nullify that. 2DBBE755-33D8-421E-BDD0-ED38AAD64E83.jpeg 3AF1513A-CF80-4F13-8956-7802AABA9217.jpegI recommend a zip tie on the heated saw wires, they will rub on the top cover. Works good.26E7DA1B-0E17-4C55-BD9F-E7BC1C8882C1.jpeg
 

huskyboy

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Holy cow that little plastic titty on that is all that drives the oiler????
The same part on a husky or stihl is metal. Not sure why they made it out of plastic. It’s very easy to replace and inexpensive though. However it’s something that shouldn’t be a problem in the first place... Metal would have been better.
 
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