If the L screw is touchy, you can increase the pop off a little to where you'll have to open the L screw a tad more and gain some adjustability. Should help
Would lowering the metering lever a touch achieve that? Or clipping one coil off the spring? I might be being overly critical, the saw honestly runs pretty nice as is... probably not worth messing with. But I try to aim for perfection. Which isn’t always realistic lol.
Any of those might get you where you want
Not this lol. It's backwards. You'd want to let less fuel get to the screw so you can open the L more
What bore are you putting on these? Purddy...I'm getting closer! How about you @Glock37?
That be a 7910 top end...[emoji16]
Above my pay grade Kenny! I only ran the saw for less than a tank as a 6421. It ran really good for a stock saw. Cant wait to see how the 79cc runs! The OEM 7910 kit was $166 shipped earlier this year from SLE.I got the NPW bb. Same exact saw base . 6401
Edit
I just realized it might be the 6400 bottom I had. Red coil was already on it? Does that help?
So does that mean it's more better?
I’m not sure, both run good for me. I was also told the 6421 crank runs different ignition timing than the 7300/7900 (different cranks supposedly). Just to confuse things further lol.
Both advanced the same amount if I pulled the red coil saw over the slowly I could get it to kick. Black coil didn’t kick. Not very scientific lol. The black coil saw actually ran better because I did more work to it than the red coil saw. So a real test would be to swap coils on the same saw and time the cuts.
As expected it's very smooth! It feels really strong and can't wait for some tanks to get through it! I got a 24" Tsumara bar and it will be better suited than the 20"! I left that Ash log where is was so I could run the 7910 in it when the time came. It's been there a while!
@HYPERSAWS running my 7900 on a side leaning Doug fir with a water line to avoid. We are taking over where the buncher will stop cutting.
