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Dolmar 64xx/73xx/79xx series, smurfs and solo 665/675/681 thread

roadster27

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Hi guys. I’ve been wanting to run a Dolkita for a while now. I hear they are quit impressive.
I Already own a 2009 Dolmar 7900, but I don’t dare run or even try to start it....
So I’ve been on the hunt for a cheap, good condition saw to play with. I know that those 2 words don’t always go together... I found a Makita 6421 on CL I ended up buying for 300.00. Think it was a Home Depot rental at one point in its life due to the numbers carved into it.
F598F601-4B2D-4A13-8F6E-B8B3C5213DD2.jpeg Never the less it is In pretty decent shape. From my research it looks like if I put a 7910 top end on it, the decomp is on the correct side and the coil has the higher limiter already. Can anyone confirm that? Also HL has there 54mm big bore kit on sale right now. How well do these kits run? Or should I just hold out and buy an OEM 7910? The savings is around $125.00 if I go with the BB kit.... not that the extra $ would brake the bank, just is it worth it?
I mostly play with Husky’s (346, ported 272, 2-288, & a hand full of 2100’s). This saw is probably going to run a 20” & 28” bar depending on what task is at hand.....
 

huskyboy

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Hi guys. I’ve been wanting to run a Dolkita for a while now. I hear they are quit impressive.
I Already own a 2009 Dolmar 7900, but I don’t dare run or even try to start it....
So I’ve been on the hunt for a cheap, good condition saw to play with. I know that those 2 words don’t always go together... I found a Makita 6421 on CL I ended up buying for 300.00. Think it was a Home Depot rental at one point in its life due to the numbers carved into it.
View attachment 244571 Never the less it is In pretty decent shape. From my research it looks like if I put a 7910 top end on it, the decomp is on the correct side and the coil has the higher limiter already. Can anyone confirm that? Also HL has there 54mm big bore kit on sale right now. How well do these kits run? Or should I just hold out and buy an OEM 7910? The savings is around $125.00 if I go with the BB kit.... not that the extra $ would brake the bank, just is it worth it?
I mostly play with Husky’s (346, ported 272, 2-288, & a hand full of 2100’s). This saw is probably going to run a 20” & 28” bar depending on what task is at hand.....
Hi, I would highly recommend to go with a oem cylinder kit. Replace the fuel filter in the tank (husqvarna ones work well) and carb gaskets (with zama rb31 kit) as well. I would split the muffler and remove the cat as well. If you go through the earlier pages of the thread the info is in there. The saw comes apart pretty easily (a lot like a 346xp or 372) once you get the top cover and handlebar off.
 

roadster27

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Hi, I would highly recommend to go with a oem cylinder kit. Replace the fuel filter in the tank (husqvarna ones work well) and carb gaskets (with zama rb31 kit) as well. I would split the muffler and remove the cat as well. If you go through the earlier pages of the thread the info is in there. The saw comes apart pretty easily (a lot like a 346xp or 372) once you get the top cover and handlebar off.
Thanks for the tips. I was planning on opening up and gutting the muffler. I will definitely rebuild the carb. Thanks for the kit I need. And the filter recommendation. I have a 2-288’s on the bench now. Once the are done I will be moving on to this saw.
 

SOS Ridgerider

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Hi guys. I’ve been wanting to run a Dolkita for a while now. I hear they are quit impressive.
I Already own a 2009 Dolmar 7900, but I don’t dare run or even try to start it....
So I’ve been on the hunt for a cheap, good condition saw to play with. I know that those 2 words don’t always go together... I found a Makita 6421 on CL I ended up buying for 300.00. Think it was a Home Depot rental at one point in its life due to the numbers carved into it.
View attachment 244571 Never the less it is In pretty decent shape. From my research it looks like if I put a 7910 top end on it, the decomp is on the correct side and the coil has the higher limiter already. Can anyone confirm that? Also HL has there 54mm big bore kit on sale right now. How well do these kits run? Or should I just hold out and buy an OEM 7910? The savings is around $125.00 if I go with the BB kit.... not that the extra $ would brake the bank, just is it worth it?
I mostly play with Husky’s (346, ported 272, 2-288, & a hand full of 2100’s). This saw is probably going to run a 20” & 28” bar depending on what task is at hand.....

Hi, I would highly recommend to go with a oem cylinder kit. Replace the fuel filter in the tank (husqvarna ones work well) and carb gaskets (with zama rb31 kit) as well. I would split the muffler and remove the cat as well. If you go through the earlier pages of the thread the info is in there. The saw comes apart pretty easily (a lot like a 346xp or 372) once you get the top cover and handlebar off.

Sondre @SOS Ridgerider had a source to a great price OEM 52mm P&C kit.
I agree with Mason @huskyboy in going with an OEM kit. You’ll never have to look back or feel you settled. Especially if you plan on porting it, or having it ported. The OEM cylinder has more potential in it than the big bore does. Much better reliability as well.
Solid advice from Mason on the other stuff too.

This top end here will fit straight onto the saw you have there. Same decomp, and on the same side. The older PS-7900 had the decomp on the other side, and a shorter decomp to boot. This is probably what @Wilhelm was thinking of:
https://sleequipment.com/makita-genuine-part-038-130-071-cylinder-piston-d-52-dolmar-ps-7910.html
 

roadster27

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@roadster27
If you have a 2009 7900 why wouldn't you run it???
Because they are only in this condition once....
01D109E8-C441-465A-9F98-F8EB436856CC.jpeg 323FF659-F3B0-4989-BCB9-71200520B09F.jpeg 79F3DF0B-A965-4405-901E-7895F939F2DD.jpeg E4878C14-298B-4F13-86D3-73CD42B3E4B6.jpeg NIB with tool kit, bar, chain, paper work including warranty card.... never even had fuel in it... not to many left like this. They are the Holley grail saw to some and some day some one will want it this way. Not that I need to be the guy to keep it but for now it can sit. I would love to find a 2100 in this same condition. That is my favorite saw ever...!
 

RI Chevy

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Ahh. OK.
Shelf queen.. lol
Very nice.
I'd run it...
 

roadster27

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I figure if they are as great of a saw as everyone says, at this point it would be worth keeping this way. There are enough good used ones out there as well to use and play with there’s no need to run a NIB. Plus they don’t make them any more so. It’s only 11 years old now. Not sure it will ever be crazy money but what the hell wait and see.
 

roadster27

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Grab another 7900 runner and use it. Nice saws...[emoji106]
That’s what I plan on doin with the 6421. Will be gutting the muffler and 7910 oem top as you guys have recommended.
Question, is there much difference in a 7900 vs 7910 provide the 7910 has a good muffler and the higher coil?
 

RI Chevy

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Which is better Dustin?
7910...
 

SOS Ridgerider

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That’s what I plan on doin with the 6421. Will be gutting the muffler and 7910 oem top as you guys have recommended.
Question, is there much difference in a 7900 vs 7910 provide the 7910 has a good muffler and the higher coil?
Like Dustin said they’re pretty much the same except the piston design. The later 7900 designated top ends had the left hand decomp, but used the same piston as in the 7910. Those top ends are also still available for the guys with left hand decomp covers. I use them to keep the older saws with the red or gloss black tops looking stock.
The exhaust port in the 7910 jug is a little larger, not at the cylinder opening, but further out to accommodate the SLR that sticks into it from the 7910 style muffler. Less to grind out if you’re porting it.
You have the nicer muffler, in my opinion, and the higher coil. Win win.
The slab sided piston was an upgrade, and the saws run a little better compared to the windowed style.
 
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