Diagonal slabbing?

[wildroamer]

Soooo tempted to get into this milling jazz. We have some big cherry's that I'd love to make into some furniture.

I've also been thinking about slabbing some logs at a diagonal so I could make a live edge coffee table that tapers at each end.

Any thoughts on what route to take? Alaskan? Logosol? Other ideas?

You guys are inspirational with the beautiful pieces I've seen!

 

[mdavlee]

I've thought about it myself but never done it.

 

[quietfly]

Soooo tempted to get into this milling jazz. We have some big cherry's that I'd love to make into some furniture.

I've also been thinking about slabbing some logs at a diagonal so I could make a live edge coffee table that tapers at each end.

Any thoughts on what route to take? Alaskan? Logosol? Other ideas?

You guys are inspirational with the beautiful pieces I've seen!

Only issue i see with slabbing Diagonally is you never know until it dries, how much movement you'll have in the wood. and this could take years with out a kiln. To be clear, you don't really know how much movement you'll get in regular milling either, however since most of the wood is from the same orientation most times it shrinks at the same rate. Stickered and stacked with some heavy weights this can be marginalized. I'm not sure that would be the case with big slabs diagonally. the closest i've done to that is milling crotch sections and sections with burls, and they always seem to have a bit of movement and arch to them. I personally have a Grandberg, as well as a Haddon Lumbermaker. Im still trying to convince the wife that i need the logosol M8

 

[lumberjackchef]

Only issue i see with slabbing Diagonally is you never know until it dries, how much movement you'll have in the wood. and this could take years with out a kiln. To be clear, you don't really know how much movement you'll get in regular milling either, however since most of the wood is from the same orientation most times it shrinks at the same rate. Stickered and stacked with some heavy weights this can be marginalized. I'm not sure that would be the case with big slabs diagonally. the closest i've done to that is milling crotch sections and sections with burls, and they always seem to have a bit of movement and arch to them. I personally have a Grandberg, as well as a Haddon Lumbermaker. Im still trying to convince the wife that i need the logosol M8

Good input about the movement as It dries...also some species do better for cookie type slabs. Anything that is cross grained like some of the elms I have had much success with in cookies that cracked very minimally... The other thing is to seal them up with endgrain sealer or poly after cutting them to slow the process way down so the moisture is removed slowly .....I have actually built slab stuff immediately after milling with cedar with no I'll effects as long as there are no glue joints involved....


And QF I hope you get your wish on that m8 I am building a similar style mill to the m8 right now from some scraps that I have used as a slabbing mill in the past........

Sent from my N9516 using Tapatalk

 

[quietfly]

Good input about the movement as It dries...also some species do better for cookie type slabs. Anything that is cross grained like some of the elms I have had much success with in cookies that cracked very minimally... The other thing is to seal them up with endgrain sealer or poly after cutting them to slow the process way down so the moisture is removed slowly .....I have actually built slab stuff immediately after milling with cedar with no I'll effects as long as there are no glue joints involved....


And QF I hope you get your wish on that m8 I am building a similar style mill to the m8 right now from some scraps that I have used as a slabbing mill in the past........

Sent from my N9516 using Tapatalk

From you mouth to god's ears.
I could practically cry about the lumber i've missed out on easily 4 or 5 walnut counter tops, and more bowls than i could know what to do with......
although time has been my biggest obstacle. Between a New born and the one in college, I've had time for Jack squat.

 

[wildroamer]

Thanks guys, I hadn't thought about movement at all. Thanks for the education!

 

[quietfly]

Thanks guys, I hadn't thought about movement at all. Thanks for the education!

The best education is just doing it and seeing what works for you. you'll figure it out, we all eventually do.

 

[Lone Wolf]

Thanks guys, I hadn't thought about movement at all. Thanks for the education!

Milled boards crack less then diagonal cuts. Get a cheap Alaskan mill attach it to a saw and make lumber.

 

[Definitive Dave]

Milled boards crack less then diagonal cuts. Get a cheap Alaskan mill attach it to a saw and make lumber.View attachment 50500

what kind of mill should i get to slab a 50" maple about 15' long, I have big saws and big bars but really want to have a nice tabletop and shelving some out of this beast

 

[Iron.and.bark]

what kind of mill should i get to slab a 50" maple about 15' long, I have big saws and big bars but really want to have a nice tabletop and shelving some out of this beast

Lucas or Peterson.

Only proceed with option below if you can comply with the check list.

Like sawdust
Fit
Have a good back
Patient
Like chain sharpening
Really patient
Aren't very smart

All of the above describe me.

Essentially you need an alaskan mill, big power head, 56" bar as you will lose atleast 4" off bar width clamping on mill unit. As for chain, I would use .404 and a 7 tooth sprocket. .404 will stay sharp longer and have higher chain speed than 3/8. You will also require a rail or flat surface to attatch to log for a level surface for first cut.

 

[Definitive Dave]

Lucas or Peterson.

Only proceed with option below if you can comply with the check list.

Like sawdust - hate it
Fit - I fit in my jeans but not in a wetsuit
Have a good back - uuuhm its as good as it is likely to get, but always hurts
Patient - hmmm this list is not looking good
Like chain sharpening - .......definitely downhill
Really patient - aaargh
Aren't very smart - well one out of seven is a good start i suppose

All of the above describe me.

Essentially you need an alaskan mill - could buy one
big power head - 090G, MS880, 084x3, 076 Super x2 so CHECK
56" bar - CHECK i have a new 59" Stihl ES
.404 - Check I have rolls of it
7 tooth sprocket - and CHECK
rail or flat surface - CHECK

sounds like my equipment is good but my labor supply might be an issue
I would love to find a local with a big bandsaw mill, I have a shelter house where I could sticker and stack the slabs to let them age, and equipment to move the big trunks around and a second giant shorter piece to practice on.

 

[Lone Wolf]

what kind of mill should i get to slab a 50" maple about 15' long, I have big saws and big bars but really want to have a nice tabletop and shelving some out of this beast

That's big , do you really need the boards milled 15 feet?

 

[Wolverine]

what kind of mill should i get to slab a 50" maple about 15' long, I have big saws and big bars but really want to have a nice tabletop and shelving some out of this beast

That's going to take a pile of time, make a metric shet ton of dust, and completely fry your brain w/ fumes. A MKIII Alaskan and a respirator.... Go!
Seriously though, I've found a lot of figure in the maple I've encountered this past 2 years. One very large tree that was processed into firewood, which kills me to burn. Are you familiar with how to look for signs under the bark?

 

[Wolverine]

@wildroamer I agree with qf about wood movement. One thing you might try as well is to ratchet strap your stickered stack @ the stickers. Every week tighten them. You may luck out, you may not. Also, you could cut them a bit thick so they can be flattened in a planer or large drum sander.

 

[quietfly]

@wildroamer I agree with qf about wood movement. One thing you might try as well is to ratchet strap your stickered stack @ the stickers. Every week tighten them. You may luck out, you may not. Also, you could cut them a bit thick so they can be flattened in a planer or large drum sander.

Cutting them thick is your best bet in any case. leaving room to plane them to the right size.

 

[Rob Stafari]

That's going to take a pile of time, make a metric shet ton of dust, and completely fry your brain w/ fumes. A MKIII Alaskan and a respirator.... Go!
Seriously though, I've found a lot of figure in the maple I've encountered this past 2 years. One very large tree that was processed into firewood, which kills me to burn. Are you familiar with how to look for signs under the bark?

I myself haven't a clue how to tell... please do tell.

 

[Wolverine]

Here's an easy one. I'll have to go take a pic of the slabs I have drying now. You can see a wavy pattern in the wood fiber.

 

[quietfly]

that wood gave me wood!!!!

 

[Wolverine]

Unfortunately it gave me heat.

 

[junkman]

Looked like that figured wood was made into firewood .