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Decomp - Use It or Lose It?

pro94lt

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I guess their like oil ratios if you run 50:1 for decades and have never had an issue why worry about it? On the other hand leaving a decomp in and loosing a cylinder or burning up one while running 50:1 might change your mind.
 

moshra

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I honestly always forget my saws that have a decomp. I did plug one in a Husky 359 I did, can't remember why. Maybe it was leaking? I do agree with when you start a saw don't half ass it. I rebuilt a little Husky 141 that was around 150 psi and was trying to record a video of it starting and running for the guy I did it for and almost punched myself in the face trying to start it in the ground holding it with my boot and pulling it with one hand lol. I also usually drop start my saws, way easier for me using the saw's weight to help start it.
 

moshra

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Terribly sorry. I didn't realize I needed to read when the last post was made.
 

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Old thread ,I KNOW ! Keep your biscuits warm.
I see tons of videos on line of saw modifications and almost all of them drop start the saw ( too many without the brake on). That would be an immediate "fail" in any professional certification class, also kind of poop pooped on in a government job .
I'm wondering if most decomp pluggers could start their saws in the "correct " way ? Without dropping it for inertia help?
I'm not judging, just wondering?
 

hacskaroly

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I'm wondering if most decomp pluggers could start their saws in the "correct " way ? Without dropping it for inertia help?
I'm not judging, just wondering?
My 2100 does not have a decomp or a chain brake and I am not even going to try to drop start it. I am plenty comfortable putting saws on the ground, hand on the front handle, heel on the rear handle plate and pull start it that way. I typically do that with larger saws, 075, 576 too. I was watching a guy start a 576 the other day, disengaged the chain brake, choke, trigger lock and drop started it as fast as he could pull the cord...the saw fired right up and in his pulling the bar was dipping all over the place and came pretty close to his leg. Wasn't wearing chaps or anything. Yup, not for me doing it that way. I probably could handle drop starting my 2100, not a small guy at 6'8", but I would rather spend money on fixing chainsaws than medical bills for taking a chance.

Edit: I did put a D-handle on the saw, didn't want to have a small handle get ripped out of my hand...that hurts!
 

MustangMike

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I almost always start my saws on the ground w/o using the decomp. Almost all my saws (13 of 16 runners) have decomp) and I much prefer to have it. When the saw is warm, I will often use the decomp and re-start it effortlessly. Guilty of not using the chain brake, as with a warm saw with decomp starting is usually very uneventful, but my chain breaks all work if needed.

Using the decomp, when the saw is warm, is especially appreciated if I'm working on a pile of logs, as it makes it much easier to keep your balance.

I make some exceptions when needing to clear the 4wd road up to my cabin in the snow. Then I will often drop start a cold saw using the decomp to keep the saw out of the snow.

I believe the saw will start faster (when cold) if you don't use the decomp. After they are warm, re-starting with the decomp is almost uneventful.

I have an 026, 044, and 066 flat top w/o decomps. The 066 top cover has a hole for a decomp, and I may swap out the cylinder for a decomp one. It is on my long list of saw mods I may get to some day!
 

rogue60

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What is really odd is guys going around saying a leaking decomp will burn up ya saw! 😆

The decomp is under pressure on the up and down in a running two stroke. Just exactly when is a decomp ever under a vacuum?
An air leak allowing air in through a decomp leaning out a saw is impossible.
 
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farminkarman

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What is really odd is guys going around saying a leaking decomp will burn up ya saw! 😆

The decomp is under pressure on the up and down in a running two stroke. Just exactly when is a decomp ever under a vacuum?
An air leak allowing air in through a decomp leaning out a saw is impossible.
I think it is just a false concept that Facebook has enabled to become "truth".
 

huskihl

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I think it is just a false concept that Facebook has enabled to become "truth".
It can even be tested. Once the saw is good and warmed up after making several cuts, push the decomp in and listen for the tune to change. If there was any way it could be detrimental, your RPMs would need to go up or at least it would need to four stroke less. I’ve done it several times to show people. It makes zero difference in the state of tune
 

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My 2100 does not have a decomp or a chain brake and I am not even going to try to drop start it. I am plenty comfortable putting saws on the ground, hand on the front handle, heel on the rear handle plate and pull start it that way. I typically do that with larger saws, 075, 576 too. I was watching a guy start a 576 the other day, disengaged the chain brake, choke, trigger lock and drop started it as fast as he could pull the cord...the saw fired right up and in his pulling the bar was dipping all over the place and came pretty close to his leg. Wasn't wearing chaps or anything. Yup, not for me doing it that way. I probably could handle drop starting my 2100, not a small guy at 6'8", but I would rather spend money on fixing chainsaws than medical bills for taking a chance.

Edit: I did put a D-handle on the saw, didn't want to have a small handle get ripped out of my hand...that hurts!
Yeah I start my Super1050 Homelite on the ground (no decomp 100cc) , I did put an elasto start handle on it .
 

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I almost always start my saws on the ground w/o using the decomp. Almost all my saws (13 of 16 runners) have decomp) and I much prefer to have it. When the saw is warm, I will often use the decomp and re-start it effortlessly. Guilty of not using the chain brake, as with a warm saw with decomp starting is usually very uneventful, but my chain breaks all work if needed.

Using the decomp, when the saw is warm, is especially appreciated if I'm working on a pile of logs, as it makes it much easier to keep your balance.

I make some exceptions when needing to clear the 4wd road up to my cabin in the snow. Then I will often drop start a cold saw using the decomp to keep the saw out of the snow.

I believe the saw will start faster (when cold) if you don't use the decomp. After they are warm, re-starting with the decomp is almost uneventful.

I have an 026, 044, and 066 flat top w/o decomps. The 066 top cover has a hole for a decomp, and I may swap out the cylinder for a decomp one. It is on my long list of saw mods I may get to some day!
I have 2 044 10mm saws without decomps , one has a gasket one is a bear to start at 17.5 squish! But they both run great.
I have drop started the high compression one in thick brush .
 

Catbuster

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I don’t use them, but I won’t plug them unless they leak. And then, it’s a toss-up if I plug it or not. If there’s a valve in stock, I’ll pick it up and install it. If not, I’ll put a bolt in.

I start my saws with rear handle between my legs and the chain brake on. I hate bending over to start a saw on the ground, but drop starting a saw… Isn’t my style. It looks goofy, but it’s in the Stihl manual and it works

Either way, with any saw you should have a good grip on the starter handle and pull like you mean it. I’ve seen a lot of people’s arms suddenly stop, which hurts their shoulder, or have the handle ripped out of their fingers when the decompression release closes. That hurts too… I’ve seen more of those.
 
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