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Chopping axe vs splitting axe.

Marshy

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Ther was almost 20 dollars differance. I was cheap lol.

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Honestly, I would take it back and get the X27. If you want to knock rounds in half you want the splitting axe. I've knocked open 32" rounds of black locus cut 20" long.
Funny story about the locus. The guy that gave the the firewood was helping me load and I was splitting to manageable pieces. I took a breather and he offer to split a few. He tried his hardest but couldn't do it. He wasn't a wimp but just doesn't know the tricks. He worked himself out of breath trying then stopped and laughed and didnt know how I was doing it. I picked the axe back up and cracked it open in 3 wacks. He laughed harder and said thanks for showing him up in front of his wife lol.
 
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mdavlee

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Note* Fiskars doesn't recommend striking a metal object with their splitting or chopping axe. I think the Isocore maul is capable of striking a metal object with the poll.

Actual, I use mine to drive steel wedges and haven't had it chip yet. I like the splitting axe for what you want to do. I use the felling axe for driving felling wedges if needed.
I broke one x27 doing some of that. I may have swung a little harder than really needed too. I prefer the husky splitting axe 10:1 over the x27. The old fiskars super split had the best head design they ever put out but they changed it with the longer handle. The Council Dayton pattern I have is 5 lb for driving wedges but will split decent in some woods
 

Hinerman

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athando

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I've built a lot of things over the years besides a fire whilst in the bush. Fences, shelters, windbreaks, crude washstands and once helped build a small dock. I've used a bunch of different axes and within my collection are a few I really like. For a wilderness trip I carry an Estwing hatchet I found it at bestoutdooritems, in my daypack, a 28" 3 lb foresters style ax I got at a garage sale and a 24" tube frame bow saw from a hardware/camping supply store. The blade guard on the saw is a length of plastic tube with a slit and a couple 550 cord ties. A saw can be much more useful than an ax at times. On YouTube, there are a lot of interesting videos about comparing the quality of different axes, check out this video, I think it will not be superfluous.
 
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CR888

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Splitting axe is designed to cut/split down the grain pushing it apart thus the thick wide V. A felling axe is designed to cut against the grain and the deeper it penetrates the more efficiently it cuts. To do this its a balancing act between weight, speed (handle length/weight/swing speed) & head profile that will slice deep & wide into the wood. Racing axes are thin yet fairly wide at the edge where its the opposite for splitting axe, it can be thinner in edge width but thicker in profile to push apart the wood. These are basic design differences between the two styles. Other factors such as scolloped sides, cut outs, phantom bevels can effect performance along with blade sharpness, smoothness/polish will also effect efficiency. But at the end of the day to chop wood one does not need to spend hours honing & mirror polishing his axe.
 

RI Chevy

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Splitting Ax and splitting maul.
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RI Chevy

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Depends on the size of the rounds. For anything 18" in diameter or less, the large splitting ax works perfect.
For large rounds 2 feet in diameter or larger, the extra weight of the splitting maul really helps. Both are very useful as I split all my wood by hand. Or noodle with a saw. Lol
I know my limitations through experience. [emoji106] [emoji16]
 

RI Chevy

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The GB large splitting Ax is really nice. Very fast swing speeds and the head that is forged very hard just explodes the wood.
Here is a short video. Sorry about the end, phone fell over and I did not realize it. Lol
 
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