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Check your chains after you derail them

davidwyby

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Checking the chain after a chain throw for burrs on the drive links is SOP, dude.
Burrs is a given, most (myself included especially in the middle of dropping a tree) just pop the chain back on and piss rev it. I’m glad I noticed this. Sucked cuz that was my felling chain. My bucking chain was real aggressive because I had been bucking semi hollow rotten trees, so I dropped the rakers to keep it from screaming (ported 2188 36” skip). Bucking chain did not like boring and felling a solid oak. Reminds me though an Aussie on fb taught me a trick to tame kick while boring…once the bore is started, put a side load or twist on the saw/bar to create some damping friction. Works pretty well.
 

jacob j.

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Burrs is a given, most (myself included especially in the middle of dropping a tree) just pop the chain back on and piss rev it. I’m glad I noticed this. Sucked cuz that was my felling chain. My bucking chain was real aggressive because I had been bucking semi hollow rotten trees, so I dropped the rakers to keep it from screaming (ported 2188 36” skip). Bucking chain did not like boring and felling a solid oak. Reminds me though an Aussie on fb taught me a trick to tame kick while boring…once the bore is started, put a side load or twist on the saw/bar to create some damping friction. Works pretty well.
Are you square grinding or filing? You can assist the feed rate of the chain in different woods by increasing or decreasing the backslope of the top plate.
 

davidwyby

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Are you square grinding or filing? You can assist the feed rate of the chain in different woods by increasing or decreasing the backslope of the top plate.
Round. I have some square chains by others and an ATOP I have only used once. I’d like to go square as I think it can be faster with less grabbiness. The atop angles are racy and delicate.
 

davidwyby

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I spose I could have filed that chain with the file higher or used a 1/4”
 

Wilhelm

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That is scary!
Good thing You caught it.
 

jacob j.

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I spose I could have filed that chain with the file higher or used a 1/4”
If the wood is being that grabby, I would definitely change your top plate angle. The chain will rock less and you'll run less risk of breaking a tie strap or drive link.
 

Wilhelm

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If the wood is being that grabby, I would definitely change your top plate angle. The chain will rock less and you'll run less risk of breaking a tie strap or drive link.
For the stuff he is cutting he should consider a cutoff saw or water jetting it! 😂
 

davidwyby

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Are you square grinding or filing? You can assist the feed rate of the chain in different woods by increasing or decreasing the backslope of the top plate.
You mean the angle inside the hook or are you referring to heel clipping which is supposed to smooth boring?
 

Wood Doctor

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A tree service manager gave me a chain loop last spring for sharpening that had been derailed. He said, "It's almost a new chain. Can we save it?" I studied the loop and said, "Possibly. It's a mess. These burrs are really bad."

Almost half the drive links were burred from the derailment. My getting rid of those burrs so that the chain could be used smoothly again took more time and effort to do than sharpening or making a new chain loop combined. Was the salvation worth it? Not in my book.
 

davidwyby

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A tree service manager gave me a chain loop last spring for sharpening that had been derailed. He said, "It's almost a new chain. Can we save it?" I studied the loop and said, "Possibly. It's a mess. These burrs are really bad."

Almost half the drive links were burred from the derailment. My getting rid of those burrs so that the chain could be used smoothly again took more time and effort to do than sharpening or making a new chain loop combined. Was the salvation worth it? Not in my book.
Put it on loose and piss rev it
 
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