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Did you center the crank after you put the case together to confirm that the crank spins freely and doesn't bind up anywhere?
i was thinking maybe my tach was just not reading right so i put it on another saw and it read just fine. i also read that sometimes if it is heald to close that it tries to reset while its reading and giving a low number.
oh yes the build is solid i have built several saws over the years. im stumped about thisDid you center the crank after you put the case together to confirm that the crank spins freely and doesn't bind up anywhere?
thats just it i can turn the h needle out and make it run crappy but when i turn it back in it doesnt ever wind up i can turn it in until it seats and never lean it out. for a split second the other day i got a max reading of 12, 813 on the tach but jumped right back down to 9200 or so. saw was warmed up and seems to run just fine and sounds like it is running like it should but turning the needle all the way until it seats with no change has me baffled wtfIf it's bouncing off the rev limiter, the tach will read improperly.
This statement is what tends to oppose a bad fuel filter. If you can turn out the high speed needle and get it to blubber, obviously you can get enough fuel. However, if you change the fuel filter and that isn't it, then at least that can be eliminated.i can turn the H needle out and make it run super crappy
when i checked it with the air cleaner cover off it went to 12700 without changing anything.
im on my second fuel filter i had a walbro felt filter but was sure that it would not have been the issue. i put on a new oregon version of the husqvarna filterI recently discovered on a 266 that the nylon mesh filter will 4 stroke 1,000 rpm higher than a recently cleaned old felt one. I cleaned the felt one again, more soak, will re test.