carburetor

[pbillyi69]

Ok so here we go, I have built from the case up a jonsered cs2188/390xp it has all new oem everything except for the fly wheel and coil. it pressure/vac tests fine but the H needle has little or no effect on it. it starts and idles just fine and it runs fine two i ran a couple of tanks of gas through it and decided to tune it a little more as i figured it was probably a good time to check it out. i cant get it to rev higher than around 9500 rpm. i can turn the H needle out and make it run super crappy but can turn it all the way in until it seats and not lean it out at all. What to check now? The carb is a brand new non epa oem carb. i didnt pressure test it or check the metering height as it is brand new.

 

[Gullet]

And New Carb???

 

[Gullet]

If I eliminated the Carb (Brand New).
I would be looking for a small vac leak next...
Spray Carb cleaner may be your friend.

 

[srcarr52]

That sounds like you have the metering lever too high and it's holding the needle/seat open.

 

[pbillyi69]

its a brand new carb walbro WJ118

 

[pbillyi69]

is the metering lever supposed to just be flush with the body like the smaller carbs

 

[srcarr52]

is the metering lever supposed to just be flush with the body like the smaller carbs

Maybe, I can't remember if that diaphragm has an extension or not.

The best way to set a lever is to put the diaphragm on it and run a screw driver shaft over the top, it should just slightly hit the rivet such that the diaphragm is flat on install. This works on all carbs.

 

[pbillyi69]

thank you. i dont know why it surprises me that i have to check it on a brand new carb, with the way things are made these days

 

[Stump Shot]

Ok so here we go, I have built from the case up a jonsered cs2188/390xp it has all new oem everything except for the fly wheel and coil. it pressure/vac tests fine but the H needle has little or no effect on it. it starts and idles just fine and it runs fine two i ran a couple of tanks of gas through it and decided to tune it a little more as i figured it was probably a good time to check it out. i cant get it to rev higher than around 9500 rpm. i can turn the H needle out and make it run super crappy but can turn it all the way in until it seats and not lean it out at all. What to check now? The carb is a brand new non epa oem carb. i didnt pressure test it or check the metering height as it is brand new.

If you are using just a screwdriver to adjust the Hi side, it will only go so far as it is limited by an adjustable limiter. Use a spline type adjustment tool, this will push in the limiter and allow full movement of the screw and will limit it again once removed to limited screwdriver service.

 

[pbillyi69]

it is the non epa carb and has regular screws. wj116 is the epa and wj118 non epa

 

[pbillyi69]

i guess i will take it off and check the metering lever even though its brand new and see if it is set right

 

[Ketchup]

Coil or FW gap? I’ve had quite a few faulty coils recently. They present similarly sometimes.

 

[pbillyi69]

that is something i wondered about. the gap is correct but it is a used coil that and the flywheel are the only used parts on this saw

 

[Gullet]

Update?
If I ever had to remove the flywheel (used flywheel as mentioned) I would advance the timing (key reduction) while I had it off.

 

[pbillyi69]

Update?
If I ever had to remove the flywheel (used flywheel as mentioned) I would advance the timing (key reduction) while I had it off.

reduce it by how much?

 

[AlfA01]

Ok so here we go, I have built from the case up a jonsered cs2188/390xp it has all new oem everything except for the fly wheel and coil. it pressure/vac tests fine but the H needle has little or no effect on it. it starts and idles just fine and it runs fine two i ran a couple of tanks of gas through it and decided to tune it a little more as i figured it was probably a good time to check it out. i cant get it to rev higher than around 9500 rpm. i can turn the H needle out and make it run super crappy but can turn it all the way in until it seats and not lean it out at all. What to check now? The carb is a brand new non epa oem carb. i didnt pressure test it or check the metering height as it is brand new.

What did you do during the rebuild? Is it OEM stuff, base gasket delete, any port work?

 

[pbillyi69]

all oem no mods just straight rebuild new everything except the flywheel and coil. what started as a rebuild on an old chasis turned into an expensive rebuild. for the money i have spent i could have bought one brand new. however it is brand new just put together by me instead of husqvarna

 

[pbillyi69]

i have enough parts to put the original one back together except for a few of the screws that i used on this one

 

[pbillyi69]

i was thinking maybe my tach was just not reading right so i put it on another saw and it read just fine. i also read that sometimes if it is heald to close that it tries to reset while its reading and giving a low number.

 

[pbillyi69]

i have a different flywheel and coil to try