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Extra permatex. XP. LolBuy huskies with Tillotson[emoji23]
Been waiting to use that one.
Extra permatex. XP. LolBuy huskies with Tillotson[emoji23]
Your 372 is the xtorq right if I remember correctly? They aren't as zippy feeling as the oe's but have good torque. Lots of good advice so far in this thread regarding carb rebuilds though.Only saws I have that are like this are the 262 with the HDA-87 carb and the 385 with the Tilly carb.
For comparison my 372 and 350 just don't have that high accel from idle to WOT.
The 10mm 044 I was playing with is pretty zippy in response.
Honestly the one that seems to zip the most when you touch the throttle is the 385 w/ the tilly. It is about as instant as it gets... maybe it's just the tilly carbs are where it's at?
Jeff you just need to find some of them hooskies to play with...
Extra permatex. XP. Lol
Been waiting to use that one.
Your 372 is the xtorq right if I remember correctly? They aren't as zippy feeling as the oe's but have good torque. Lots of good advice so far in this thread regarding carb rebuilds though.
Extra permatex. XP. Lol
Been waiting to use that one.
I'm not sure about the larger cc saws but they did on the older 034/034supers!!Didn't Stihl use Tillotson as standard on some of their higher CC saws like 064 or 066 perhaps? Thought I remember reading that somewhere.
That's gotta be a nice combo to run.
@Canadian farm boy do any of the hybrids you build have Tilly carbs? Hearing some of your saws last GTG they seemed to have some zippy response off idle if I remember right. I think the JMS 064 that everyone liked was like this too -- very responsive off idle.
084 has Tillotson.
It's probably tune for the most part. It ran out decent for me. Not sure what it's supposed to run like though.Maybe that's what I read... Too much bits and pieces of info!
Mike I'm going to pull the carb on the 50 my buddy Jim has with the new piston in it. He mentioned it had some bogg issues -- will check all of the usual fuel stuff out first -- line, clunk in the tank, vent, impulse grommet. Ordered a kit too since they are cheap and I was getting one for my 262 anyway and will play with the 50 too. Heck it might just be tuning but I haven't even taken a look or tried running it yet. May fart with it on Sunday... tree work tomorrow.
Some 064 came with a bing carb I believe.Didn't Stihl use Tillotson as standard on some of their higher CC saws like 064 or 066 perhaps? Thought I remember reading that somewhere.
That's gotta be a nice combo to run.
@Canadian farm boy do any of the hybrids you build have Tilly carbs? Hearing some of your saws last GTG they seemed to have some zippy response off idle if I remember right. I think the JMS 064 that everyone liked was like this too -- very responsive off idle.
I've only ever seen Zama or walbro carbs on 044 and 046.Didn't Stihl use Tillotson as standard on some of their higher CC saws like 064 or 066 perhaps? Thought I remember reading that somewhere.
That's gotta be a nice combo to run.
@Canadian farm boy do any of the hybrids you build have Tilly carbs? Hearing some of your saws last GTG they seemed to have some zippy response off idle if I remember right. I think the JMS 064 that everyone liked was like this too -- very responsive off idle.
Mostly Superior! Lol
Hey Guys-
I ordered a carb kit for the HDA-87 carb on my 262. I've been wanting to rebuild that carb for some time now and was checking out some howto videos and such and it looks like it's not too bad of a process. The ereplacementparts video actually makes it look pretty easy.
One question I had -- once the diaphragm side including needle and spring and such and check valve sides are all removed I was planning on also removing the screen and then thoroughly blowing out the carb body w/ cleaner and then reassembling with kit parts that replace old parts. I'm hoping the kit comes with a new spring so the needle will function strong with new diaphragm and such.
I noticed in the ereplacementparts vid they did not remove the H and L needles -- if you screw those all the way out can they be removed so if there's any debris or varnish down in there it can be squirted out with carb clean? Anything else I should be aware of? I'm assuming if you turn the needles out they will come out so they can be inspected and cleaned?
Thanks for any tips!
I forgot to mention it is acting up. It has a bogg and will quit. Becomes hard to start too. Compression is crazy strong per usual so it is not an issue with top end. Line is new, will check clunk in tank and tank vent (gas cap removal didn't reveal a pressure relief or anything so vent is probably fine). Full throttle and she won't spool up.. boggs to quit. Will check everything well but I suspect carb finally developed an issue.That saw runs good Eric, I wouldn’t touch that carb unless it starts acting up. Why mess with perfection? [emoji41]