Can I remove just one link to save a stretched chain that still has good teeth?

[BlueBeast]

I have a good chain that is at the limit to tighten, but cutters have plenty of life left. Will this affect the pitch enough to cause a problem?

 

[jacob j.]

Usually you can, depending on how long the bar and chain are. On really short bars, sometimes it isn't possible.

Removing drive links isn't going to affect the pitch. The pitch is the distance between the center marks of any
three rivets divided in half.

Some saw racers run their competition chains so short, they have to mount the chain/bar/sprocket all at once
as a single assembly.

 

[WI_Hedgehog]

IF your chain is stretched you'll run the risk of breaking it while running which could result in it becoming a semi-permanent part of your leg.

If it was long to begin with then you can probably pull the master link (depending on the type of chain you are running) and then remove a link or two as needed and put it back together.

 

[BlueBeast]

Thanks for the responses!

 

[blades]

It can be done but as was mentioned there must be a lot wear in the link pins to get that much stretch. from a safety point I would toss and start over. This also seems to have become more of an issue of late- the old how cheap can we make it for max return on cost deal. Other side of coin possible that you might be running the chain too tight or a lot of bar wear - combination of both? additionally just because a particular bar says X amount of drive links does not mean the your combination might need a 1 or 2 link shorter chain to start with ( sometimes goes the other way also). I have bars listed large mount Husky- but I am running them on my Dolmars - same mount- I typically need to run 1-2 links shorter than the bar is listed as, on a new chain or I will run out of tension adj. prior to useing up the cutters.

 

[Stump Shot]

While a rare occurrence, every now and then I come across a chain that's stretched past where it can be tightened up properly. Initially I tried saving these chains that had plenty of tooth life left by shortening them a link. I gave up on trying this any longer as the links are stretched to the point where they no longer go through the sprockets properly as the chain pitch is greatly increased, the sprocket then tries to scrunch the chain back as it goes through the sprocket, which leads to functionality issues when attempting to tighten the chain properly. So, any more I toss them.

 

[Wilhelm]

While a rare occurrence, every now and then I come across a chain that's stretched past where it can be tightened up properly. Initially I tried saving these chains that had plenty of tooth life left by shortening them a link. I gave up on trying this any longer as the links are stretched to the point where they no longer go through the sprockets properly as the chain pitch is greatly increased, the sprocket then tries to scrunch the chain back as it goes through the sprocket, which leads to functionality issues when attempting to tighten the chain properly. So, any more I toss them.

∆∆∆ This! ∆∆∆

There is a reason why the loop gained in length, that reason is worn down rivet shafts and hollowed out rivet holes - both result in an increase of chain pitch and incorrect meshing with sprockets.

I have a pricey Stihl Rapid Duro 3 loop that stretched out yet has loads of tooth life left.
I occasionally use it with a 8 pin sprocket on my eldest bar, though I know it is time to retire the loop.
I considered taking out one DL, but inserting a new master link in a stretched out loop would make the loop even more inconsistent and run even rougher.

 

[WI_Hedgehog]

Let's first ask the question, "Why is the chain too long."

This may be a simple answer like it started too long, or it might be more complex like "wear from use" in which case you want to isolate 'why' so the next chain lasts longer and any related wear issues (bar/sprocket/etc) can be addressed.

 

[HumBurner]

Yes.

It can be done but as was mentioned there must be a lot wear in the link pins to get that much stretch. from a safety point I would toss and start over. This also seems to have become more of an issue of late- the old how cheap can we make it for max return on cost deal. Other side of coin possible that you might be running the chain too tight or a lot of bar wear - combination of both? additionally just because a particular bar says X amount of drive links does not mean the your combination might need a 1 or 2 link shorter chain to start with ( sometimes goes the other way also). I have bars listed large mount Husky- but I am running them on my Dolmars - same mount- I typically need to run 1-2 links shorter than the bar is listed as, on a new chain or I will run out of tension adj. prior to useing up the cutters.

It's pretty regular for us to have links removed. But that's because we get lots of use out of our chains. Never had an issue with a chain breaking after having a link taken out. Two or three chains, being swapped out regularly for even tang-wear, will generally last a full year of work, occasionally longer. That's hundreds of hours of run-time.


Only time I've ever seen a chain break was a new chain (one previous sharpening) and a newish bar. Most likely a fault in the link/rivet

 

[BlueBeast]

I've been procuring a huge pecan tree the last few days and haven't had that bar back on the saw. So, ill go ahead and drop the China bomb, they're both Holzforma. Its a 660 only been used for milling big hardwoods, 43" oak right now. Ill drop in a oem adjuster when this one quits. Used a 28" bar to buck the pecan and works normally same as on my 36". 3 other 52" chains are close but are fine, one is just at the limit. Only sharpened it once and hate toss a $50 bill in the trash. I hadn't thought of trying an 8 tooth sprocket, I have some. The bar has been abused, a clump of 1/4" nails. I didn't know they made them that big. From how deep they were in the oak, probably the 70's. About 10" inside the tree. Three days swapping 2 chains sharpening at night. Ground through those and a hand full 16 penny size nails. Thanks, ill try the 8 sprocket and if I have to try pulling one link. Any thoughts which link to pull?

 

[Philbert]

It’s done all the time.

Just understand that ‘stretched’ means that the rivets, under tension, are spaced slightly farther apart, and will not fit neatly into a standard pitch sprocket, so the sprocket will wear more quickly.

If you keep that ‘stretched’ chain with that worn sprocket, they will develop a wear pattern.

If you later run that sprocket with a new chain, or that chain with a new sprocket, you will accelerate wear on the new component.

Same thing with an oversized sprocket.

Philbert

 

[WI_Hedgehog]

Personally, knowing the quality of Chinese steel, I dont run Chinese chain. It's just too much risk and too hard on the equipment. From a safety standpoint I wouldn't run a stretched Chinese chain as there's no incentive given the low cost of a new chain.

As a note i have plenty of stuff that's "Made In China," in this case the cost/benefit favors better equipment in my opinion.

 

[Stump Shot]

As to the "Why" if it's too short from new, then there's no fowl in adding a link.
Other possibility's range from saw not oiling enough oil, bar is worn out and chain can not pick up oil from the groove, chain does a poor job of picking up oil(poor design) to chain is too soft(poorly built)
Again, when we talk about chain that does not work right any longer it is Severely stretched, most every chain after some use has a little stretch to it and this is not problematic. Some bar and saw combinations do not always yield a decent amount of adjustment, this is where a chain with a bit of acceptable stretch can be shortened.
As far as to the "Where", pretty much any drive link can be taken out, you'll either end up with cutters close or far apart where spliced. I would recommend looking for a damaged cutting tooth to take out if applicable, thus making the chain "better".

 

[HumBurner]

As to the "Why" if it's too short from new, then there's no fowl in adding a link.
Other possibility's range from saw not oiling enough oil, bar is worn out and chain can not pick up oil from the groove, chain does a poor job of picking up oil(poor design) to chain is too soft(poorly built)
Again, when we talk about chain that does not work right any longer it is Severely stretched, most every chain after some use has a little stretch to it and this is not problematic. Some bar and saw combinations do not always yield a decent amount of adjustment, this is where a chain with a bit of acceptable stretch can be shortened.
As far as to the "Where", pretty much any drive link can be taken out, you'll either end up with cutters close or far apart where spliced. I would recommend looking for a damaged cutting tooth to take out if applicable, thus making the chain "better".

Sound advice!

 

[pbillyi69]

does the chain keep coming off or is it just loose?

 

[BlueBeast]

does the chain keep coming off or is it just loose?

It still runs, it just takes all the adjustment. I have 3 others just like it and they aren't quite there. It cuts great and sharpens pretty easy, I was just wondering if it stretched anymore if taking out a link would through something off.

 

[pbillyi69]

its likely that you could take out a drive link and it may or may not fit. try it and see. adjust it all the way the other way and you should have a pretty good idea if the chain will still fit by how much slop there is

 

[Wilhelm]

I am not trying to be "that guy", but if You have three identically stretched loops something is wrong!

Either You start off with 1 DL too many on Your chains, or Your perception of "sharp" is tied to heavy utilization of Your saws dawgs/spikes which WILL stretch a loop in no time.

With 3 stretched loops You can try both:
- remove 1 DL on a loop and run standard sprocket
- run a 8 pin sprocket on a stretched loop with full DL count

I'd also check the bar slot with a brand new loop to verify correctness of DL count.