MG porting
Pinnacle OPE Member
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When you do a big port it's typically best to have them going twords the exit of the upper transfer this helps promote more air and fuel to the intake side of combustion area that's the best way I can explain. someone else with a bigger brain can jump in and give you a better explanation.Would you please add some commentary to the bridge location, as opposed to the boost port style used in some 460s and hybrids?
Thank you Mike I appreciate all you guys great info from allChecking back on my notes, I put together a hemi head 460 with the following #s (no base gasket): Sq .018, Ex 105, Tr 127, In 75. I had planned to port this jug, but it ran so darn well w/o any porting I left it the way it was and the Tree Guy that has it loves it.
I also had one with an HL Supply Jug (the on sale for $20 ones) that ran almost as well (with a used OEM piston and bridge ports, and a little port work).
Sq: .0225, Ex 103.5, Tr 124, In 80 (was originally 72). This saw went to a homeowner who has several acres of woods, and I periodically get reports that he loves it. (He is a friend of a friend).
Just thought I would share, for whatever it may be worth!
Want a few more for free? I’m done too.I ported a Meteor identical to how I port an OEM and it didn't run near as well. I ditched it and never looked back.
I’m not sure why they run so well on some saws. I pretty much called it quits with doing them.The purpose of a Bridge Port (I'm not familiar with Boost Ports) is to direct the fresh charge above the intake port to force the spent charge out the exhaust.
A saw will loose power and efficiency if fresh charge is being lost out the exhaust before ignition.
I usually go a little larger and try to angle it a bit more toward the intake (this is one of my Cross 660 jugs).
The only thing I like about the meteor cylinder is the plateing that's it I used one on a 660 and It was a terd for power I sold that saw I was so "p" at it.Want a few more for free? I’m done too.
The AM just can’t get the transfer tunnels right, you think they would just look. Haven’t seen a single one with any direction to them.
Anyone who wants a meteor core for porting, PM me. Just pay shipping.
So if you want a cylinder that runs good but NOT one thats oem what do you use?The only thing I like about the meteor cylinder is the plateing that's it I used one on a 660 and It was a terd for power I sold that saw I was so "p" at it.
If you want something to work good without port work them OEM..... I will never spend the money that Meteor wants ever again until they make improvements OEM for that kind of money.So if you want a cylinder that runs good but NOT one thats oem what do you use?
I thought meteor was the ducks guts?
I have a Hyway on my 441c,very happy with it.
Not talking about having to port a cylinder to make it work.
Chris.
Holy chitOEM 441 top end was going to cost me $708 here in Aust-no thanks.
I am just a fire wood hack.
All I know I can cut faster than the old man can load,good enough for me.
I can't tell if my saw cuts 2 seconds faster than someone else.
Was going to do a 044/046 hybrid if I can get a scored 044 cheap.
But if I have to fit an OEM top end might give it a miss.
I was going to fit a meteor but will give this a miss also.
Chris.
That's why I put a hyway on it.Holy chit
You could buy a NICE used saw here for that money. And yes, some members have shipped saws and parts down under to bypass some of Stihls outrageous Aussie pricesThat's why I put a hyway on it.
Seemed to have good bevels and finish (me no expert)
Good squish,good compression.
Port timing f&@$?d if I know just put it on and cut wood.
But I take in what you blokes do/know.
If meteor has s?$t ports then I accept what you say.
But what would you guys fit if you had to pay $708 (hyway $150)
Anyone willing to send me cheap parts from USofA?
Chris.