Archer chain

[RI Chevy]

I wouldn't worry too much about that. I'd put the file right through that strap.

 

[Wilhelm]

Or take the next smaller diameter round file and position it higher - might get You above the DL.

 

[RI Chevy]

Gotta clean out the gullets! lol

 

[huskihl]

Or take the next smaller diameter round file and position it higher - might get You above the DL.

I think that’s what makes archer slower than others. The drivers stick up above the tie straps and they have sharp corners on them rather than rounds. If one cared enough to speed it up. I would file them down and try it

 

[jakethesnake]

I’d have to put a stop watch on it. I typically want Oregon on my falling saw but I have a loop of archer on there. I’ve filed it several times. It cuts pretty darn well. Not sure if I’ve filed into the straps but I don’t really think so. My rakers or depth guages. (Just for you @Philbert) are pretty high on that saw because it’s all the bar I can pull even w skip.

I have a good loop of Oregon and haven’t switched back.
That said I’ll likely buy Oregon when I use that one up.

for me the archer really shines for 20-24 inch bars. If you’re cutting firewood for your home. I think it’s really good stuff. I don’t race chainsaws and honestly my own stamina is what determines how much I get done in a day.

the stuff holds an edge good. I like it. For long bars I like Oregon best but I don’t hate the archer there either. I think it cut just a tad wider kerf. Only drawback when my saw doesn’t have any power to spare

 

[Wilhelm]

I think that’s what makes archer slower than others. The drivers stick up above the tie straps and they have sharp corners on them rather than rounds. If one cared enough to speed it up. I would file them down and try it

Much work invested in HOPES the cheap(er) chain might perform like a quality chain!
Archer and TriLink have their place, but it is NOT in performance!

I’d have to put a stop watch on it. I typically want Oregon on my falling saw but I have a loop of archer on there. I’ve filed it several times. It cuts pretty darn well. Not sure if I’ve filed into the straps but I don’t really think so. My rakers or depth guages. (Just for you @Philbert) are pretty high on that saw because it’s all the bar I can pull even w skip.

I have a good loop of Oregon and haven’t switched back.
That said I’ll likely buy Oregon when I use that one up.

for me the archer really shines for 20-24 inch bars. If you’re cutting firewood for your home. I think it’s really good stuff. I don’t race chainsaws and honestly my own stamina is what determines how much I get done in a day.

the stuff holds an edge good. I like it. For long bars I like Oregon best but I don’t hate the archer there either. I think it cut just a tad wider kerf. Only drawback when my saw doesn’t have any power to spare

Today I used an 20"/72DL 3/8" Archer loop on my PS-6400 bucking green 20+" oak trunks.
In an undercut I pinched the B&C and started using my PS-550 with 16" 56DL 3/8" Oregon chain to free the pinched B&C.
The less powerful saw with significantly shorter bar and more worn chain clearly outperformed the Archer chain, both full chisel, full complement, both sharpened with an Archer FastFiler guide.

The Archer chain I have is power consuming without delivering true performance!
It did hold up decently for 2 1/2 tanks of fuel with one touch up, but compared to the Oregon chain it felt uncomfortable, grabby and slow.

This Archer chain I have is as new, I WILL wear it out on odd jobs just to get rid of it (read: get some use out of it) - and I am certain I will not purchase any on purpose.

Oregon full chisel FTW any time for me!

 

[Maintenance Chief]

I'll probably try a 13/64s file on it to see if that helps.

 

[Philbert]

On a slightly different tangent, but knowing @huskihl and @Philbert are involved in this thread, when you guys grind a chain, assuming you index off the shortest cutter, do all the cutters end up essentially the same length, wear on the wheel notwithstanding?

Lots of options.

If 1 or 2 cutters are messed up from hitting something, and it is just a 'work chain', I might grind those past the damage, and sharpen the remaining cutters the same, so not always the shortest cutter (if they are really messed up, I might break them out and spin in replacements from a 'donor chain').. Same thing if 1 or 2 cutters were filed significantly shorter for some reason: I want to maximize the useful life of the chain loop, and 1 or 2 cutters will normally not make a practical difference.

But, generally speaking, the settings on a bench grinder are designed to create consistent, uniform cutters on a chain loop. It really helps to 'even out' erratically filed chains (different tooth lengths, different angles, different Right and Left side profiles, etc.). Gives someone who hand files a 'clean start'! Grinding wheel wear is insignificant on a single chain loop.

Philbert

 

[3browns]

Awesome

Thanks


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[Philbert]

Chain cutting speed should primarily be a function of the cutter shape / angles designed in by the manufacturing process, along with the filed / ground angles and depth gauge setting, by the person who sharpens it, once they get past the factory sharpened edges. If Archer, TriLink, etc. 'copies' an Oregon or STIHL cutter, I would expect the cutting speeds to be very similar.

How long the cutter remains sharp, however, could vary with the type and quality of steel used, hardening, uniformity, etc. So could breakage, in some circumstances, ease of filing, etc.

Saw racers are obsessing with chain weight, so those larger tie straps would make them nuts. I assume that the corners that obstruct the gullets could be filed or ground down, but not sure if that could lead to increased breakage: lots of chain breaks occur near the rivets. Seems like a design oversight to me.

Philbert

 

[3browns]

Chain cutting speed should primarily be a function of the cutter shape / angles designed in by the manufacturing process, along with the filed / ground angles and depth gauge setting, by the person who sharpens it, once they get past the factory sharpened edges. If Archer, TriLink, etc. 'copies' an Oregon or STIHL cutter, I would expect the cutting speeds to be very similar.

How long the cutter remains sharp, however, could vary with the type and quality of steel used, hardening, uniformity, etc. So could breakage, in some circumstances, ease of filing, etc.

Saw racers are obsessing with chain weight, so those larger tie straps would make them nuts. I assume that the corners that obstruct the gullets could be filed or ground down, but not sure if that could lead to increased breakage: lots of chain breaks occur near the rivets. Seems like a design oversight to me.

Philbert

I think this chain is what it is and you either use it within the constraints of existing materials and design or move on

Unless Archer is paying users to critique their product with an eye towards improvement I personally don’t have a lot of motivation to try and make it something it isn’t

Obviously someone who gets their kicks out of tweaking chains probably has a different outlook

That’s the great thing about this hobby

We come at it from multiple angles and have civil and informative discussions about stuffs like this

Carry on…


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[3browns]

I shouldn’t have said HOBBY

I know full well it’s a livelihood to some

Peace


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[RI Chevy]

Bottom line...
We all do our own VooDoo to the cutter to make it work for us.

 

[3browns]

I was on the Archerplus.com site and happened to see this picture

It is the link to their chains from their home page

The drive links don't look anything like any other Archer chain pics we have posted

They are rounded and curved and look very much like the Carlton drivers shown previously

The chain appears to have been polished or plated or something to make it sexier looking I guess

IDK

 

[RI Chevy]

The ole bait and switch trick. Lol

 

[3browns]

You gotta wonder...

 

[Czed]

I just went back through this thread and looked at various pictures folks posted a year or two back and there are several where it looks like the drive link is higher than "normal"

look back at page 11

@Czed had some good pics

I just went and looked at the Archer loop on my saw right now and the top of the driver is up into the gullet area like yours and i bought my loops 2 years ago

.050 3/8 semi

I'm running china 84dl .50 in archer,8ten,longer and no name ebay china version of the same full chisel chain.
After a couple years the chains I've been using
Are all mixed together on my
30+ saws
And all have held up no issue's
At all.
And as far a cutting speed I have no idea
I just cut tree's down I don't
Time anything.

 

[Maintenance Chief]

I think it could be a good chain, just out of the box its got some challenges. Its not particularly slow or terrible and I don't want to give that impression. Ive used it to drop trees and buck up some firewood.
Freshly sharpened its more than adequate but definitely not a wow factor. A sharp chain is faster but I don't time my cuts either , I do know that a dull chain is bad and has sent plenty of saws to the scrap yard.
I don't mind a little elbow grease to set it up the way I like a chain to cut,and I dont think that should keep anyone from getting it, just that the price point should reflect the challenges.

 

[3browns]

I don't mind a little elbow grease to set it up the way I like a chain to cut,and I dont think that should keep anyone from getting it, just that the price point should reflect the challenges.

That's it in a nutshell for me at this point

When I bought the 2 loops I have been fooling with off and on it was less than HALF of a corresponding loop of Stihl and a third less than a loop of Oregon

At least for me I felt it was a glimmer of hope in what I felt was a crazy chain market with prices going up every time you went on the internet

It is no longer a winner in the price wars anyway without all the baggage of tinkering with it unless that's what you want to do

As always, to each his own...

 

[Wilhelm]

In my area Oregon is more affordable than Stihl - Stihl is THE most expensive chain I can get.
Carlton is a little more affordable than Oregon.
No idea on pricing for Archer chains, but TriLink is still roughly half the price, maybe 3/5th of Oregon.

Husqvarna X-Cut is on par with Oregon EXL/LGX.