Anyone have a 543xp ?

[BGE541]

Any recommendations on how much to shave off the key ?

I like to grind a small mark where the race on the crank is, then a mark on where the key was so you have a "zero" then grind the whole key off... haven't had one fail as long as you give it a good little hit with a small impact.

 

[junkman]

Mitch had a good video a while back ,used a timing light to see where timing was ,just left 1 screw in the recoil cover so could pop it off quick after it was running ,then knew how far was going when modded the key .

 

[sawmikaze]

I like to grind a small mark where the race on the crank is, then a mark on where the key was so you have a "zero" then grind the whole key off... haven't had one fail as long as you give it a good little hit with a small impact.

I think i went a smidge too far , i have the tick tick tick in the cut..and it got a little tougher to start..im gonna move er' back a pube

 

[sawmikaze]

Mitch had a good video a while back ,used a timing light to see where timing was ,just left 1 screw in the recoil cover so could pop it off quick after it was running ,then knew how far was going when modded the key .

Im comin elizabeth.

 

[Chainsaw Jim]

Have you ever seen a small 7-spline .404 rim? There must be more involved than just turning the rim down, but I know it has been done... @ford150 ?

No I haven't, but it doesn't matter because the 404-7 info was general.
Yes there is more than just turning the rim down; you must also narrow the teeth on the bar tip.
But as far as just turning the rim down....that's all it needs and not much at that. A worn down one that's still useable will also work perfectly. 404-8 won't work at all.

 

[junkman]

reg 3/8 sprocket with picco bar and 3/8 picco chain ,fits this saw ok ,felt no binding when ran chain around the bar by hand .

 

[Chainsaw Jim]

Yeah it feels good until you put driving pressure on it, then you'll start seeing the drivers slightly bump as they settle in the groove. I was running my mouth on AS last year and ended up making the same argument until I went out and ran about ten cuts.

 

[SawTroll]

No I haven't, but it doesn't matter because the 404-7 info was general.
Yes there is more than just turning the rim down; you must also narrow the teeth on the bar tip.
But as far as just turning the rim down....that's all it needs and not much at that. A worn down one that's still useable will also work perfectly. 404-8 won't work at all.

Yes - but as this is about the 543xp, the real challenge is to make a standard 7-spline rim fit on a small 7-spline drum (or find a standard 7-spline drum that fits the saw).

On the 550xp the drum isn't an issue, as you can use a 562xp drum - but I suspect it is on the 543xp(?).

Picco bars that fit are available, so you don't have to modify the nose sprocket of a bar.

 

[Chainsaw Jim]

Yes - but as this is about the 543xp, the real challenge is to make a standard 7-spline rim fit on a small 7-spline drum (or find a standard 7-spline drum that fits the saw).

On the 550xp the drum isn't an issue, as you can use a 562xp drum - but I suspect it is on the 543xp(?).

Picco bars that fit are available, so you don't have to modify the nose sprocket of a bar.

I nominate you for head cheese of the thread topic popo! Lol
Now the next question to answer is whether the 550, 350 and 543 clutches are the same.

 

[sawmikaze]

Im not worried about the bar , i want the proper sprocket if it exists.

 

[junkman]

what about a spur ?

 

[junkman]

Yeah it feels good until you put driving pressure on it, then you'll start seeing the drivers slightly bump as they settle in the groove. I was running my mouth on AS last year and ended up making the same argument until I went out and ran about ten cuts.

I think when i tried an oregon sprocket ,it did not roll as smooth as the stihl ,maybe they are casted a little different in the driver area ?

 

[Chainsaw Jim]

Sprockets of the same brand can vary where the casting meets the finish grinding on the top of each tooth. Some are left rounded from casting, others are sanded smooth at the outer surface leaving each tooth with a slight edge at the tip. I suspect this is what you're feeling.

 

[SawTroll]

what about a spur ?

There could of course be one that fits somewhere out there, most likely for some other Zenoah made saw - but if so I haven't "heard" of it yet....

 

[SawTroll]

Im not worried about the bar , i want the proper sprocket if it exists.

Bars exist, no problem.

 

[RIDE-RED 350r]

OK, pardon an ignorant question, two actually...

1) What is a Picco chain?
2) What is so special about them that I see them talked about frequently concerning converting sub-45cc saws to run them?

.404, 3/8, .325, and 3/8 LP I get. I have never heard of Picco till I got into saw forums.

 

[sawmikaze]

OK, pardon an ignorant question, two actually...

1) What is a Picco chain?
2) What is so special about them that I see them talked about frequently concerning converting sub-45cc saws to run them?

.404, 3/8, .325, and 3/8 LP I get. I have never heard of Picco till I got into saw forums.

Picco is just stihls terminology for lo-pro..PS chain cuts really nice.

 

[SawTroll]

Picco is just stihls terminology for lo-pro..PS chain cuts really nice.

Yes, and I'm sure it does - but what people tend to forget that when you leave the cookie cutting and enter the woods, the inherent disadvantages of 3/8" low profile chain will turn up at some point....

If smaller always was better, the world of chainsaw chain would have looked very different from what it does.

The bottom line is that everyone should test the options themselves, not just go by "popular saying".

 

[Spike60]

Well, I've a half dozen 543's that I'd let go for $325 shipped. (Little more to the west coast) So, if you guys want a deal on one, let me know.

If this was sports, the 543 would be the high draft pick that washed out. A shame cause it's a nice handy little saw when it finally breaks in. You guys are right about 10+ tanks before it starts to earn it's keep. It's just got a couple things going against it.

Most obvious is that it is WAY overpriced. The current promo price is $529; $10 more than the 545, which I consider to be a better saw. No way it will sell at that price. Power is decent, but it doesn't hit the 242XP target that was claimed for it. More like a 42 special. So, the pro guys aren't biting, and at $500, neither will anyone else. Plus it's been a long time since the 242 was around and tree guys are into the top handle thing for bucket/climbing work. One exception was a guy who tried it and said it was OK, then dug out 2 old 242's and had me rebuild them. Most feel that the 545/550 is a better choice, more usable power and only a slight weight increase.

Truth is, and sit down cause I'm really going to say this: Stihl did a better job with the MS241, cause it's an actual Stihl. Looks like a 261 that shrunk in the dryer. The 543 really isn't a Husky and guys pick it up and sense it. Bear in mind also that the whole rationale behind these saws is an expectation that major tree companies were going to prohibit the use of top handle saws to discourage one handed operation. Not really sure if any companies have gone that route yet.

That being said, it's nice to have one for small work. Breaking down tops, fence/hedgerow work. It's like a scalpel. I've got a lot of time with one and IMO it holds it's own in 8" hardwood, but go much beyond that and most 50cc saws pull away. It's also the easiest starting saw I've ever seen; start it with 2 fingers. It has a spring assist starter, but it has a positive feel to it. Most other efforts from Husky, and especially Stihl have that disconnected-rubber band feel to them. So, if anyone wants to add one to their collection, let me know.