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Any of you chain junkies want to teach us to "Stone"?

Wilhelm

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I've never attended any chainsaw races, lest raced myself nor made a race chain!
Would someone be so kind and explain me the purpose of stoning a chain like shown in the video a couple posts back.
Narrower kerf?
Less aggressive/grabby side plate?

I get the grinding of the rivet heads, lesser drag.

Thank You!
 

Willard

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I've never attended any chainsaw races, lest raced myself nor made a race chain!
Would someone be so kind and explain me the purpose of stoning a chain like shown in the video a couple posts back.
Narrower kerf?
Less aggressive/grabby side plate?

I get the grinding of the rivet heads, lesser drag.

Thank You!
A normal sawchain cutter as it crosscuts in the log kerf wanders all over the place losing cutting speed efficiency.
That's why the end of the log is rough covered with cut lines.
A properly stoned chain will make a cut surface so smooth you could write on it with a ball point pen.

But I wouldn't recommend it on a work chain lol.
Once that layer of chrome is gone you'll be doing lots of filing to keep it sharp.
 

Sierrawoodsman

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I really like JR's set up for stoning~Sweet. I stone chain on the saw-(chain mounted bass akwards). Here's some notes,A couple of pictures, and a short video. On the last one I did


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Sierrawoodsman

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I've tried various types of stones for this part of the process and I have decided that I like to Use diamond lapping bench stone the best because it's perfectly flat, has fast material removal characteristics, and it doesn't wear quickly. Mount Chain on your saw in the running "backwards" orientation. Fairly tight chain tension. And mount the lapping plate with a .030" spacing plate so The lapping plate that it is in contact with one or two cutters, but not interfering with anything else. Then secure in place with a "C -clamp" or Quick release clamp. Use start and stop motion to keep heat down. The goal here is to square up the cutters "working corner" by removing material from the sideplate, this also reduces kerf width which therefore, reduces the load on the chainsaw. Stoned surface should extend no more than about .100" or so beyond cutting edge. Excessive stoning can reduce kerf too much and cause the chain to bind in the cut. This part of the procedure is probably the most dangerous to do. Proceed at your own risk!
Perhaps a safer/slower way of doing it is to use that same diamond lapping plate and perform this operation by hand with your chain mounted to your bar or chain vice and securing it firmly in place. A properly stoned chain will have a much smoother appearance to the end grain of a log.
Top view:
887d47bb8beb540002804c1b3a17af6e.jpg

Reference the surface of the cookies below.

ca399575b323b9c79ad5b4b832979b46.jpg
a7f85be11e844d66e627ccd0be514868.jpg
8c0224ce35f88e92fb5e9b14ecd7d608.jpg



All were cut with the same chain on the same saw with the same Raker setting.The only difference being the amount of stoning that the sideplate received.





Notice the final cookie appears almost "sanded smooth" in spots. This was after leather honing. See video below:
 
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Sierrawoodsman

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Hope that helps. That's just what I do. You have to find a method that works best for you.
On a side note, I have also found that it is sometimes necessary to touch up and working the corner slightly after stoning the side plate. Here's a close-up View of one that has been stoned and honed.
897ec0483b891e4b2ccda797fcf421c5.jpg



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