Am I directionally correct?

[Fairways_and_Greens]

Hello. I've been around saws for a long time, mostly farm saws... My dad used to log in the PNW and Alaska so I got to use his 056 Mag growing up. For some reason I've recently got a wild hair to get more out of my saws. I did a few muffler mods and it's like a drug.

I used to ride MX bikes and do maintenance/tuning, but they were all 4-strokes. I have a decent shop with a 3-axis mill waiting to be setup. I have bench grinders, TIG, plasma, etc. No proper porting grinding motors though.

I want to tune my equipment in this order (order of emotions if mess up)
CS-3000, Mantis Tiller, CS-310, 223L string trimmer, Rancher 450, 345FR forest saw, and 562XP.

• I've been going through the threads on here: Chainsaw Porting Theory, First Time Porting, Basic Porting Terms, and Improving 562
• I got a copy of Two Stroke Engine Repair and Maintenance by Paul Dempsey

Is there a more "technical" book that would be helpful? Can I get started on the CS-3000 or Mantis with an air tool or Dremel? Thanks for any help getting me pointed in the right direction!

 

[jacob j.]

There's a lot of good threads here on saw building. Look for posts and threads by drf255 (Al), jmssaws (Jason), and Mastermind (Randy). I don't know that I would get into turning up your Mantis tiller much- the gearbox on those is a weak point. I think good maintenance is all you need for that one (I worked at a dealership for five years that sold Mantis). The Echos and 562 are worth doing some work to. The 345FR is also a potential candidate. The 223L I would leave stock as the driveshaft is also a weak point.

 

[Fairways_and_Greens]

There's a lot of good threads here on saw building. Look for posts and threads by drf255 (Al), jmssaws (Jason), and Mastermind (Randy). I don't know that I would get into turning up your Mantis tiller much- the gearbox on those is a weak point. I think good maintenance is all you need for that one (I worked at a dealership for five years that sold Mantis). The Echos and 562 are worth doing some work to. The 345FR is also a potential candidate. The 223L I would leave stock as the driveshaft is also a weak point.

Good info on the 223 and Mantis. I wanted to start with the things I have the least emotional attachment to. The 345FR is my baby. It's going to be out of this world when I uncork it. I'm doing a lot of climbing/limbing around the place and was hoping to get the CS-3000 done first...

 

[T.Roller]

That 562 really likes a Muffler mod I've heard. Mine was a different animal after it was a different level.

 

[Jimmy in NC]

The CS3000 will be a bit depressing and discouraging. It is a reed valve saw so gains are not as great as others. That being said I love a CS 300/3000/3400/3450/303 etc. A muffle mod may help some but don't expect it to cut like a 50cc saw. A 20% gain would make it cut like a 36cc saw so just keep all of that in your mind. Also smaller cylinders are harder to work in and echo parts aren't cheap or supported heavily by aftermarket.

Also trimmers normally are pretty well done from the factory. Not huge gains past a muffler mod and remember the environment/duty cycle is different than a saw. A trimmer routinely run at 100% for extended periods. A saw runs 100% for a minute or two tops unless milling.

I would honestly try my hand at a plastic poulan saw first. Am oops is only a free - $30 oops and they show good gains. Once the theory and technique is grasped, then move to your user equipment.

Just my $.02

 

[Guido Salvage]

Wild Thing, you make my heart sing (and won't break the bank).

 

[Chainsaw Jim]

jacob j. brings up a good point on the tiller. Those things are prone to gear damage when they hit roots because they spin so fast with good torque.

 

[Fairways_and_Greens]

Forgot to add... I have a BTS570 blower. Can/should much be done to them?

 

[jmssaws]

Go to your dealor and ask for there junk cylinders,which most are not junk so it's a great source for spares.

Anyway get some junk ones and practice grinding, the ability to grind clean and symmetrical is more important than a number,practice all you can.

I use a air die grinder and 1/4" bits all the time when I need to move a bunch of material but it leaves no room for error.

Practice grinding and get good at it and you will be ahead of the game.

I'm a self tought porter and have 1000's of hours grinding experience and learn something new every time I do it.

A day where nothing is learned is a waisted day,try to be better every time you do it and you will become very good at it.

There's no need for a bunch of equipment and bits just a few good bits and a way to turn them is all you need.

Grizzly makes a cheap shaft drive that's very good.

 

[Fairways_and_Greens]

Thanks Jason! The Grizzly is a flex shaft? Do I need the straight and 90 heads? If so, where do I get them? Have you ever had anyone request porting a backpack blower?

 

[jmssaws]

This is what I use,all of it isn't necessary.
I get most everything from ebay,cc specialties and Rio grande

 

[Jimmy in NC]

Forgot to add... I have a BTS570 blower. Can/should much be done to them?

Porting blowers is a touch area. If you raise the power too much you can cause the impeller to cavitate and then the motor will quickly over-rev. I get the cat out of the muffler, and sometimes ditch the base gasket... very limited. If you get good gains and the device can no longer function, you've gone backwards.

 

[jmssaws]

I have ported a few wackers but never a blower.

 

[Fairways_and_Greens]

This is what I use,all of it isn't necessary.
I get most everything from ebay,cc specialties and Rio grandeView attachment 28029 View attachment 28030

Thanks, I'd need a 90* to do transfer ports, correct? Can I get a 90* handpiece for the Grizzly?

 

[jmssaws]

Thanks, I'd need a 90* to do transfer ports, correct? Can I get a 90* handpiece for the Grizzly?

It takes the same handpiece as a foredome, I use a foredome mostly but the grizzly is good just less rpm.

On dual port saws you don't necessarily have to have a right angle, a cut off wheel and practice can make a beauty of a upper. I still use one now and then.

A right angle isn't the easiest thing to get handy with,it takes practice to do a good job with one. There very expensive to

 

[Al Smith]

If you want to get right down and dirty you can do it with a couple of files and some sand paper .Might take a bit longer .

 

[jmssaws]

To get all you can from one you need a right angle for the transfers but a respectable gain can be had from a cut off wheel.