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JonCraig

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That’s some “You Suck” material right there.

E591DB32-ED55-4FB9-B371-E8AF4E7DD3FA.jpeg 9FEBD6EB-3B51-4046-B511-6499B64B4B1F.jpeg F79A0F64-7114-4CA4-A235-EE56F503B422.jpeg 474F85FF-E301-4FE5-B325-D01A1A778344.jpeg FC80B4DD-0AA7-46B3-9D61-A00F51EB3E83.jpeg

Yep. :-)

So far, a full teardown & deep clean. Parts starting to trickle in. Jug cleaned up easy w/ WD-40 & sandpaper. New SKF bearings went in easy enough. It came with what appears to be the normal “lite” A/V setup: rubber in the front two, springs in the back four. I already have 6 new rubber mounts to install, plus the normal fuel, oil lines, seals, Oiler O-ring, gaskets, etc—all OEM. Meteor piston w/ caber ring. Oh, and 3 new clutch springs. There wasn’t very much transfer on the jug, And the clutch side bearing was extra crusty. The old piston had lots of carbon on top. My guess is that the clutch side seal was leaking and sucking some bar oil, but probably still running. I’m thinking the broken clutch spring is what made the last guy set it down and forget about it.
 

beaglebriar

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View attachment 135930 View attachment 135931 View attachment 135932 View attachment 135933 View attachment 135934

Yep. :-)

So far, a full teardown & deep clean. Parts starting to trickle in. Jug cleaned up easy w/ WD-40 & sandpaper. New SKF bearings went in easy enough. It came with what appears to be the normal “lite” A/V setup: rubber in the front two, springs in the back four. I already have 6 new rubber mounts to install, plus the normal fuel, oil lines, seals, Oiler O-ring, gaskets, etc—all OEM. Meteor piston w/ caber ring. Oh, and 3 new clutch springs. There wasn’t very much transfer on the jug, And the clutch side bearing was extra crusty. The old piston had lots of carbon on top. My guess is that the clutch side seal was leaking and sucking some bar oil, but probably still running. I’m thinking the broken clutch spring is what made the last guy set it down and forget about it.
That's a great score. Looks like it cleaned up nicely.
 

JonCraig

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So... this may be off the deep end... just opened my new Meteor piston & noticed that it came with the Caber F-Cast ring. I’ve read in the past that they’re stiffer and harder than the “traditional” Cabers, May wear the jug faster, may take longer to seat, etc.

So... let me be honest... I will use the saw maybe 10 hours/year. Unless I find a bag of money and go buy some acreage.

Are the F-Cast going to make a hill of beans worth of difference?
 

beaglebriar

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So... this may be off the deep end... just opened my new Meteor piston & noticed that it came with the Caber F-Cast ring. I’ve read in the past that they’re stiffer and harder than the “traditional” Cabers, May wear the jug faster, may take longer to seat, etc.

So... let me be honest... I will use the saw maybe 10 hours/year. Unless I find a bag of money and go buy some acreage.

Are the F-Cast going to make a hill of beans worth of difference?
It'll take a little longer to break in but like you said at 10 or so hours a year I doubt you'll see any wear issues.

I have a half dozen saws running whatever came with the meteor piston.
 

Onan18

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So... this may be off the deep end... just opened my new Meteor piston & noticed that it came with the Caber F-Cast ring. I’ve read in the past that they’re stiffer and harder than the “traditional” Cabers, May wear the jug faster, may take longer to seat, etc.

So... let me be honest... I will use the saw maybe 10 hours/year. Unless I find a bag of money and go buy some acreage.

Are the F-Cast going to make a hill of beans worth of difference?


I personally believe that Meteor sends F Cast rings with their single ring pistons because they need to be a little stiffer since they don't have a second ring.
 

JonCraig

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Off work today. Got the meteor on the rod, and measured squish at average .013. I have some gasket paper that appears to compress down to about .008.

Here’s the squish numbers I had with no gasket in case it helps anyone. 96 xp Mahle w/ decomp. It’s an “A” cylinder.

C1B5FE37-B934-4A82-BFE7-EEEBB6B2D433.jpeg
 

JonCraig

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7ED09D40-4D2E-4DA4-ABFC-7B47C258CD9B.jpeg 911233CA-B508-482B-BDF1-82B3EFF34FA6.jpeg D719280E-02B8-454E-A317-E0A6C34F777F.jpeg

Question... How deep are these seals supposed to sit? My eyes aren’t good enough to see if it’s making good deal around crank on flywheel side. And for a Stihl guy, this whole “seal in the oiler” thing is voodoo...
 
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