abused poulan question

[KennyWinCT]

Thanks, Kenny....where do you get your carbs?

I, like most people, look to Amazon 1st, but make sure I am getting an actual Zama or Walbro or Tillotsen carb. The seller is usually Zama for a Zama OEM carb and usually distributors or dealers for the other two brands. Look for the term OEM (Original Equipment Manufacturer). If in doubt email the seller and ask. If you see the origin of the seller is China, then there ya go! And if the carb cost 8 bucks, chances are it's a knock off! Have I used Chinese stuff? Yes, when OEM is not available and a kit rebuild and ultrasonic bath doesn't fix the issue.

 

[sonoransaw]

That's helpful, Kenny....thanks!

 

[Cut4fun]

Good to see the outcome. WTG

 

[Stump Shot]

That's helpful, Kenny....thanks!

I bought one of these saw's new years ago to get me back in cutting firewood again, after a few years use, I gave it a good service, got OEM parts from Ereplacement. Did a muffler mod along with the fuel system service and the saw really ran quite well. Is still being used as a truck saw for a friend of mine to this day. Two things I learned early on, the air filter does not fit well and a bit of grease on the lip keeps the fines from entering, the other is the bar oiler never stops when idling, so in warm weather I would add some STP to slow it down so bar oil wasn't running down the sides of the bar.
Found a couple of old pics of mine.
Good luck with your saw.

 

[sonoransaw]

Thanks, Cut4fun....

Stump Shot....appreciate the thoughts (and pics)...it is a messy oily saw, have to try the stp....and others have complained about the loose air filter. I think I'm going to try a thin bead of silicone, let it dry before putting the filter back on as a sort of gasket....if that doesn't work, I'll try the grease....

 

[Cut4fun]

My test unit I bought back in 2013 or so was like $169 to my door. Cut pretty close to the way more expense saws. Is what it is and great saw for the buck.

All were tested together cutting one day.

 

[Cut4fun]

All of above is gone and these are my new small saw favorite. Name brands get sold .
IMO find you some and fix up. Like a poulan 3000 305 335 3300 craftsman 3.3 etc 3 different 3.3's

The one I like is chrome bore like a 335 but with single thick ring like a 330.

 

[sonoransaw]

Very cool, Cut4fun....yeah, looks like when it comes to Poulan, vintage is the best way to go....keeping my eyes out....

 

[sonoransaw]

I've had some time to run this saw and while I'm happy it's at least running now, it still seems to be having some problems. After it warms up, when it's idling, it starts speeding up on its own. Adjusting the L screw doesn't seem to help. I'll pull the trigger and it'll go back down for a short bit, then start speeding back up. You guys mentioned an air leak. Would this be symptomatic of that?

 

[KennyWinCT]

I've had some time to run this saw and while I'm happy it's at least running now, it still seems to be having some problems. After it warms up, when it's idling, it starts speeding up on its own. Adjusting the L screw doesn't seem to help. I'll pull the trigger and it'll go back down for a short bit, then start speeding back up. You guys mentioned an air leak. Would this be symptomatic of that?

ABSOLUTELY. when a saw gets warm, seals that are borderline have a tendency to leak. Have you tried spraying parts cleaner at the intake block, base, and under the sprocket(with the bar and chain off)? Take off the muffler to make sure you don't have any lean scoring on the piston. Sounds like yours is running like the two that I have now. Has to be a leak, but where is the question.

 

[AVB]

Which why you need to pressure/vac test the crankcase. On pressure testing soapy water indicate leaks. But note seals can leak sometime only on vacuum or pressure; just depends how they failed.

 

[KennyWinCT]

ABSOLUTELY. when a saw gets warm, seals that are borderline have a tendency to leak. Have you tried spraying parts cleaner at the intake block, base, and under the sprocket(with the bar and chain off)? Take off the muffler to make sure you don't have any lean scoring on the piston. Sounds like yours is running like the two that I have now. Has to be a leak, but where is the question.

I'll try to do a pressure/vacuum test on one of mine tonight and post it on my YouTube channel.

 

[sonoransaw]

I'll try to do a pressure/vacuum test on one of mine tonight and post it on my YouTube channel.

Would love to see that....

 

[AVB]

Actually it is quite simple to do once you got the block offs for the intake and exhaust ports possible the impulse port using an adapter for the spark plug hole which can be made from old spark plug or adapter made for a detachable compression tester hose.

 

[Husky268]

carb # for that saw is part no# 573952201 about 30.00 and put new oil pump kit in for leaking oil part# 576753201 about 8-10 bucks.

 

[KennyWinCT]

carb # for that saw is part no# 573952201 about 30.00 and put new oil pump kit in for leaking oil part# 576753201 about 8-10 bucks.

Thanks. The oiler hose had slipped off so hopefully that will solve that issue.

SONORANSAW I'll tell you what happened to one of the ones I worked on yesterday. I wanted to have best access to the seals so I removed the bar, chain, sprocket and clutch. I noticed the spring holding the clutch together was kinked and not looking like it was on correctly. That and one of the shoes had bluing in it like it was overheated. Well I started up the saw, she idled great AND she revved up no problem!! Could it be that the clutch was messed up and jamming when I goosed it causing a stall similar to a clogged carb that wouldn't take fuel? I then proceeded to squirt nearly half a can of brake cleaner around the seals, base, and intake area...NOTHING. I was able to hold the saw in all attitudes and no change in RPM. So I put her back together, gave a good cleaning and she seems fine now. re-starts were fine and now she responds to carb adjustments. I'm betting the jammed up clutch was the issue. The saw looked like someone had been in there monkeying around. I'll let you know later if i was right. Now on to the Wild Thing!!

 

[sonoransaw]

Good news, Kenny, glad to hear it....

Did a little more work with mine. The saw runs with the idle screw all the way in. Which means to me it's getting air from somewhere it shouldn't. Sprayed carb cleaner around carb area, and when I sprayed at the top area where carb connects it would noticeably slump and stall. Must be a leak there???

 

[KennyWinCT]

Good news, Kenny, glad to hear it....

Did a little more work with mine. The saw runs with the idle screw all the way in. Which means to me it's getting air from somewhere it shouldn't. Sprayed carb cleaner around carb area, and when I sprayed at the top area where carb connects it would noticeably slump and stall. Must be a leak there???

Isn't it the other way around? Usually an air leak means you need to RICHEN or turn OUT the screws to allow for all the extra air from a leak. All the way in is pure LEAN. Am I mistaken?
When you say Idle screw do you mean the throttle butterfly adjustment? I am thinking you meant the Low Speed Mixture Screw. Both High and low should be between 1-2 turns out. I get the saw to idle, then rotate the low speed screw to get the highest rpm, then use the idle screw to put it at the right rpm per the service manual or where the chain stops moving (given you have a good clutch), then I set the high screw to just start four-stroking at full throttle and verify with a tach. My buddy Craig said he sets them for 11,000 to 11,500 out of the wood. The four-stroking should clear up once it starts digging in to the wood.

 

[AVB]

You right on the C1M-W47 tunes Kenny.

Either the metering diaphragm and gasket are in the wrong order or the metering lever is set too high causing an over rich mixture at idle if he is having to set L all the way in. Normally these carbs usually set very close to the 1-1/2 turns on both L and H.

I have seen a few saws idle speed screw had to be in nearly all the way in order to tune the L mixture which once you get close to correct setting you start backing to keep close to spec idle speed.

 

[KennyWinCT]

Now I'm getting pissed. Came home last night, wanted to cold start the Poulan, make sure everything was ok, then get paid! NOPE! Now she has an erratic idle, up and down. She revs ok, needles are at 1-1/2 but holy crap is the idle ever erratic! The chain will stop, then spin like mad, then stop. I guess a pressure/Vac test is going to have to happen. A couple guys asked about fuel, etc. Everything from the lines to the filter to the carb to the canned fuel is NEW. I'm ready to turn it into a small boat anchor!