A dummy and the Stihl ms441c

[redline4]

Eagle has left the roost...

...and bump for a post hole.

Thanks! I heard, Brad gave me a call earlier. Will be meeting up Monday.

Ed is a GM mechanic. He should be alright remembering where it all goes.

Few pieces here, few bits there...

 

[redline4]

Brake band and linkage is run of the mill Stihl.
1 single screw in the bottom of the band.
I use a small screwdriver to lightly pry the linkage back and pop the spring off with vice grips.


From there, 1 E-clip and the upper link comes off, 1 more clip and the lower lever and spring come off.

 

[redline4]

Moving to the back again, the air filer base simply pulls off.

Don't lose the metal collar..



Removing the coil, here you can see the flywheel side limiter lug and buffer.


On the pto side it's a metal bar that bolts up along with the front handle and needs to go on first.

 

[redline4]

The control lever simply pops off.
But, it needs to be oriented properly with the upper spring and a lever on the strato throttle shaft or it won't work correctly.



According to Stihl, the carb and strato valve can be removed as 1.
I found it easier to remove separately.
2 screws and strato valve pulls off.


Here you can see my spliced wiring, the wire to the control lever just runs behind it all, nothing back there for it to contact.


And remove the throttle cable.
The 2nd "barrel" shaped ferrule is what actually goes into the carb linkage.
The round ball on the end is simply there for you to grab with pliers to remove it.

 

[redline4]

Now, the carb will pull straight off.
As a note, dump the fuel and leave the cap off.
If you don't, when the carb separates from the fuel line, it will geyser fuel at you.
I know, because I did it when I was trying to get it going, and again today..
And that was after I dumped the mix, put the cap on and pulled the carb.


And that brings me to where it currently sits.

 

[redline4]

To separate the tank from the case, remove the 2 AV spring screws, and the 2 limiter buffers.





Now there's a large enough gap where the fuel line can be disconnected from the tank, and the throttle cable pulled through.

 

[redline4]

A few twists, turns, shaking and once again twisting the tank can be separated from the case.
Here you can see the fuel and impulse on the case and the fitting and cable on the tank.

 

[redline4]

Remove the rubber insulator from the jug, spark plug and decomp.

Remove the caps from the muffler, the 2 t27 screws behind them and the 2 8mm nuts on the bottom and the muffler is off.





Piston looks new, along with unknown origin jug..

 

[redline4]

Remove these 2 screws


This partially hidden one.



The one that should be here, but isnt...


Flip it over and disconnect the impulse from the case.

 

[redline4]

Then, the 4 screws holding the jug and the entire cylinder and carb housing lifts off.

Here's the cylinder and piston, it's been run on 40:1 Amsoil Sabre, no ethanol 93 octane (all I can get E-free) for roughly 7 or 8 tanks since I got it going.



And that's all for today.

 

[redline4]

A few pics of the ports on this jug.

 

[Maintenance Chief]

Nice, description.
Just an fyi when I did my first non-C model I checked the walbro manual for the carburetor and it clearly stated that you should NOT remove the strato throttle plate assembly from the carburetor. I ofcourse did before I read that.
It went back together fine but the tiny screws are easy to mess up and the heads strip easily.

 

[redline4]

Nice, description.
Just an fyi when I did my first non-C model I checked the walbro manual for the carburetor and it clearly stated that you should NOT remove the strato throttle plate assembly from the carburetor. I ofcourse did before I read that.
It went back together fine but the tiny screws are easy to mess up and the heads strip easily.

I wonder what their reasoning is?
I usually hit them with a poor man's impact driver (lightly tap the screwdriver with a hammer while applying turning force).
I use that quite often on the screw they use from the factory to retain brake rotors.
Usually a few taps help loosen them up.

 

[Maintenance Chief]

I think because its an unnecessary step? Possibly.
But I was thinking that most shops charge for time and stripping it down further for Gaskets and diaphragm is not necessary.
I don't remember if you could cause a sinking issue with the linkage or not?

 

[redline4]

I found a Crack in the front of the tank near the AV mount.



I used my soldering iron and some polypropylene filler rod and melted it all back together.



Got a few other parts cleaned up during down time at work today.
This is shaping up to be just the right amount of ugly to make a good work saw. Can't be too pretty or I won't want to use it.

 

[huskyboy]

Then, the 4 screws holding the jug and the entire cylinder and carb housing lifts off.

Here's the cylinder and piston, it's been run on 40:1 Amsoil Sabre, no ethanol 93 octane (all I can get E-free) for roughly 7 or 8 tanks since I got it going.
View attachment 331085 View attachment 331086 View attachment 331087
View attachment 331088

And that's all for today.

Wow that big and small end of the rod got quite hot at one point.

 

[Maintenance Chief]

Those tanks do seem to be precious to some. Nice fix. When I ordered a new one through my local shop ( cheaper than Ebay) it came with fuel lines and bits.

 

[Maintenance Chief]

Then, the 4 screws holding the jug and the entire cylinder and carb housing lifts off.

Here's the cylinder and piston, it's been run on 40:1 Amsoil Sabre, no ethanol 93 octane (all I can get E-free) for roughly 7 or 8 tanks since I got it going.
View attachment 331085 View attachment 331086 View attachment 331087
View attachment 331088

And that's all for today.

50mm or 52mm?

 

[redline4]

50mm or 52mm?

The unknown origin piston and jug are 50mm like the oem.

 

[Mastermind]

Ed, I noticed a few pieces in the wrong place between the carb and the jug.