562xp Revised parts / Intake leaks

[scooby074]

Hi guys.

I have a 2011 562xp with mostly original parts and I think I have an air leak (see vid) at the boot to carb joint. Saw has been pressure/vac tested and holds fine after a new base gasket. Carb screws are tight. Boot was checked when the saw was apart, but I didnt see any obvious tears, plus it shouldnt have held vac/press if it was torn??? The fact I can kill it pretty easy with carb clean yet it will hold press/vac is throwing me for a bit of a loop here!

Saw will start and idle fine. Will run WOT ok, but will sometimes instantly stall out off idle.

I noticed there has been several revisions to the intake boot (pipe) and Flange. Ironically my dealer says that the original PNs are still valid parts? I dont have a lot of faith in him TBH. If the intake parts improved sealing it seems like a no-braner for me. Parts are less than $100.

What improvements were made? Do they seal better? What about the "Cold Resistant" part, what improvements were made, Better for a saw that is used mostly fall and spring in Canada?

Husqvarna Flange 505165201 obsolete => Husqvarna 505165202 replacement

Husqvarna INLET PIPE 520291001 obsolete => 583964103 replacement

Husqvarna Inlet Pipe COLD RESISTANT 583964102 Obsolete => 583964104 replacement

 

[Ketchup]

You may just be sucking carb cleaner through the air filter. Did you recalibrate?

 

[scooby074]

You may just be sucking carb cleaner through the air filter. Did you recalibrate?

I did think i might be sucking the carb cleaner back through the intake. I tried to be as careful as possible when soaking the joint, but the fumes might be getting sucked in I suppose? Also if I aim the carb cleaner at the boot to cylinder joint I can kill the saw as well, but it takes more to do it.

I might be able to put some sort of a shield between the boot and carb to keep the cleaner fumes away? I wonder if that would help at all.

I did a "Field Reset" 2x after the base gasket replacement. It still had the stall off idle. After that, I went and cleaned the carb again and went back looking for more air leaks. I didnt reset after that 2nd cleaning because I didnt have a log handy.

I didnt suspect the Intake because it held pressure when the carb was not installed.

Any other tricks to checking the Intake to Carb joint for leaks besides carb cleaner? If I sealed all the nipples on the carb, should I be able to pull vac through the throttle bore, assuming the rest of the saw cylinder was sealed as well? This would confirm the carb to intake joint i think??

 

[huskihl]

I did think i might be sucking the carb cleaner back through the intake. I tried to be as careful as possible when soaking the joint, but the fumes might be getting sucked in I suppose? Also if I aim the carb cleaner at the boot to cylinder joint I can kill the saw as well, but it takes more to do it.

I might be able to put some sort of a shield between the boot and carb to keep the cleaner fumes away? I wonder if that would help at all.

I did a "Field Reset" 2x after the base gasket replacement. It still had the stall off idle. After that, I went and cleaned the carb again and went back looking for more air leaks. I didnt reset after that 2nd cleaning because I didnt have a log handy.

I didnt suspect the Intake because it held pressure when the carb was not installed.

Any other tricks to checking the Intake to Carb joint for leaks besides carb cleaner? If I sealed all the nipples on the carb, should I be able to pull vac through the throttle bore, assuming the rest of the saw cylinder was sealed as well? This would confirm the carb to intake joint i think??

Need to block off ahead of the carb or it will leak through the throttle and choke shafts

 

[Woodslasher]

I did think i might be sucking the carb cleaner back through the intake. I tried to be as careful as possible when soaking the joint, but the fumes might be getting sucked in I suppose? Also if I aim the carb cleaner at the boot to cylinder joint I can kill the saw as well, but it takes more to do it.

I might be able to put some sort of a shield between the boot and carb to keep the cleaner fumes away? I wonder if that would help at all.

I did a "Field Reset" 2x after the base gasket replacement. It still had the stall off idle. After that, I went and cleaned the carb again and went back looking for more air leaks. I didnt reset after that 2nd cleaning because I didnt have a log handy.

I didnt suspect the Intake because it held pressure when the carb was not installed.

Any other tricks to checking the Intake to Carb joint for leaks besides carb cleaner? If I sealed all the nipples on the carb, should I be able to pull vac through the throttle bore, assuming the rest of the saw cylinder was sealed as well? This would confirm the carb to intake joint i think??

I use an aluminum plate between the carb and the boot. I figure if a rough cast carb can seal with screw pressure a fairly smooth piece of plate should achieve the same effect. I’d see if anyone here has heard of the stalling issue before as it may be an old Autotune “bug” or something as opposed to an air leak.

 

[Woodslasher]

Actually, my 2019 562 did that for a little bit as I recall. I just ran it and within a day or so of cutting it worked itself out.

 

[scooby074]

Need to block off ahead of the carb or it will leak through the throttle and choke shafts

Right. The shafts!! Ive always capped the intake with the carb off like youre supposed to. I was just hoping for a way to test the entire assembly, cylinder to carb as one piece

 

[scooby074]

I use an aluminum plate between the carb and the boot. I figure if a rough cast carb can seal with screw pressure a fairly smooth piece of plate should achieve the same effect. I’d see if anyone here has heard of the stalling issue before as it may be an old Autotune “bug” or something as opposed to an air leak.

When capping I use a steel plate and rubber gasket. I was just hoping for a way to test a complete intake and carb assby when on the machine.

Ive been trying to be careful applying carb cleaner to check for leaks, but maybe not careful enough ?

Could be an AT bug, but I do have an updated EL46 carb with firmware from a couple years back on it. Ive asked a few people and they seem to say its not likely a AT issue and could be a fuel (dirty carb) or unmetered air issue

I was really hoping someone would say that the new Intake and mounting flange were designed to improve sealing over the original intake. There are new PNs for the intake parts but I dont know what if any parts were improved

 

[Woodslasher]

When capping I use a steel plate and rubber gasket. I was just hoping for a way to test a complete intake and carb assby when on the machine.

Ive been trying to be careful applying carb cleaner to check for leaks, but maybe not careful enough ?

Could be an AT bug, but I do have an updated EL46 carb with firmware from a couple years back on it. Ive asked a few people and they seem to say its not likely a AT issue and could be a fuel (dirty carb) or unmetered air issue

I was really hoping someone would say that the new Intake and mounting flange were designed to improve sealing over the original intake. There are new PNs for the intake parts but I dont know what if any parts were improved

From the Husqvarna ipl updates:

1. 2016: New improved Carburettor Area base 588 19 39-01 have been introduced.
   
   
2. 2017: New Inlet pipe, assy 583 96 41-03/-04 have been introduced. The change has been made to ensure the assembly and to avoid leakage.

Not the best wording, but what I'm thinking is they introduced a different carb/flange setup for the intake, and then a year later they changed the intake boot because the old one didn't really "mesh" with the new setup.

 

[scooby074]

From the Husqvarna ipl updates:

1. 2016: New improved Carburettor Area base 588 19 39-01 have been introduced.
   
   
2. 2017: New Inlet pipe, assy 583 96 41-03/-04 have been introduced. The change has been made to ensure the assembly and to avoid leakage.

Not the best wording, but what I'm thinking is they introduced a different carb/flange setup for the intake, and then a year later they changed the intake boot because the old one didn't really "mesh" with the new setup.

Thanks. I think this is the info I was after. Any ideas what the difference between the 03 and 04 (Cold weather) intake are? There is about $20 in the difference.

I got a bit of a dumb question, where is Carburettor Area base 588193901 located? Is this piece under the carb, orange plastic? AHUPD says that 505 15 86 01 preceeded 588 19 39 01. but they look nothing alike at all. One is a orange piece , with holes for fuel lines etc and appears to mount above the fuel tank, and the other looks like white plastic with 2 studs and what looks like a hole (port) for intake. Where did the white part go? Im going to assume that the orange piece is the correct one and AHUPD's part is incorrect?

Husky parts fiches are a damn mess lol.

 

[Woodslasher]

Thanks. I think this is the info I was after. Any ideas what the difference between the 03 and 04 (Cold weather) intake are? There is about $20 in the difference.

I got a bit of a dumb question, where is Carburettor Area base 588193901 located? Is this piece under the carb, orange plastic? AHUPD says that 505 15 86 01 preceeded 588 19 39 01. but they look nothing alike at all. One is a orange piece , with holes for fuel lines etc and appears to mount above the fuel tank, and the other looks like white plastic with 2 studs and what looks like a hole (port) for intake. Where did the white part go? Im going to assume that the orange piece is the correct one and AHUPD's part is incorrect?

Husky parts fiches are a damn mess lol.

That white plastic piece is the starter pulley for the 562. I'm going to go out on a limb here and say they uploaded the wrong picture for that listing. The Carburettor Area base is the big orange plastic piece under the carburetor.

 

[Stump Shot]

Just a few generalizations that may be helpful with parts from Husqvarna. If there is an optional part like say the air filter for the 562 where there is an old or new one, you will need to order the correct one. If however a part has been updated, the old part number will automatically switch to the new updated part, like the top cover for a 562 with the hole in the side for example. You don't have to worry about getting the old one unless we're talking about a part on a dealers shelf that's been there a time. So when ordering online lets say you shouldn't have to worry much as the IPL's given to order from will usually show the old part number that has been superseded.

 

[scooby074]

That white plastic piece is the starter pulley for the 562. I'm going to go out on a limb here and say they uploaded the wrong picture for that listing. The Carburettor Area base is the big orange plastic piece under the carburetor.

Thought so. Couldnt place the white plastic piece though... Which is extra funny because Ive had the starter dogs off before and the starter apart lol

Havent had much chance to work on the saw lately. Covid has been kicking my ass for the last while. I think Im seeing the end of it now though, i hope!

 

[Fullkip]

Early on they had issues with the carbs, el 46 carbs had a bough off idle, some would bough and die
El48 and newer ones were the fix. There are at least 4 different carbs. El44, el46, el48 ect...