462CM Clutch

[sawmikaze]

why is it that some of you are saying to change the dawgs? if it is dawged with smaller spiked dawgs its still dawged in what difference would the size of spikes on the dawgs have to do with anything?

If the clutch is slipping seems to me that its faulty even if the saw is ported. if it has enough power to drive the 404 chain well enough to slip the clutch the chain or dawgs arent the problem the clutch is. Am I just missing something?

I'm not sure I know how to word this right..without telling you to just go try it and see what I'm sayin'...

The bottom spike on those dawgs grabs harder..early 462s don't mind a 28" bar on 3/8s at all..but they aren't exactly a saw known for torque..the newer ones are much better.

I think porkchop can esplain what I'm saying a little better.

Here's the dawgs he has vs the ones I use.



That bottom spike will pull the saw out of it's powerband easier when it bites.

 

[Stihlalltheway]

Leverage matters, a little more distance away because of a longer spike with the same amount of lifting pressure on the rear handle can produce a lot more pressure on the chain.

 

[huskihl]

why is it that some of you are saying to change the dawgs? if it is dawged with smaller spiked dawgs its still dawged in what difference would the size of spikes on the dawgs have to do with anything?

If the clutch is slipping seems to me that its faulty even if the saw is ported. if it has enough power to drive the 404 chain well enough to slip the clutch the chain or dawgs arent the problem the clutch is. Am I just missing something?

Yep you’re missing something. I can’t explain it and actually have anyone believe it. That needs to be tried for yourself. Big dogs and a lightweight saw and a good chain just don’t work well together in hardwood

 

[Stump Shot]

I'm not sure I know how to word this right..without telling you to just go try it and see what I'm sayin'...

The bottom spike on those dawgs grabs harder..early 462s don't mind a 28" bar on 3/8s at all..but they aren't exactly a saw known for torque..the newer ones are much better.

I think porkchop can esplain what I'm saying a little better.

Here's the dawgs he has vs the ones I use.

View attachment 358497

That bottom spike will pull the saw out of it's powerband easier when it bites.

Leverage matters, a little more distance away because of a longer spike with the same amount of lifting pressure on the rear handle can produce a lot more pressure on the chain.

Yep you’re missing something. I can’t explain it and actually have anyone believe it. That needs to be tried for yourself. Big dogs and a lightweight saw and a good chain just don’t work well together in hardwood

 

[sawmikaze]

Leverage matters, a little more distance away because of a longer spike with the same amount of lifting pressure on the rear handle can produce a lot more pressure on the chain.

Thith.

 

[sawmikaze]

Yep you’re missing something. I can’t explain it and actually have anyone believe it. That needs to be tried for yourself. Big dogs and a lightweight saw and a good chain just don’t work well together in hardwood

Especially ridin' .404

 

[huskihl]

Couple years ago I had a mini winter gtg. Took @nixon ’s new stock 462R out of the box and and mounted a 28” bar with a regular round ground chain off my grinder at 55/25/0 and gauges at .028”, my normal setup. No one here could get it to cut a 28” frozen beech log. Being sharp, the chain pulled the lightweight powerhead into the log and would bog as soon as the dogs hit. Normally you’d hold the saw back off the dogs until the bar is buried and then it’ll cut ok but the combination of frozen wood, sharp chain, and lightweight powerhead made it nearly impossible. A 500 with small dogs and 7900’s with the same bar and chain had no problem.

 

[timg]

Looser spring won’t pull the shoes in as the rpm drops though.

Thanks for addressing the question Doc. I experienced that myself on an old 028. I couldn't get that chain to stop rolling no matter how low of idle was set. Bought a set of springs and you could visually see the differences. That was the issue sir, it couldn't pull the shoes in enough at LI.

 

[whitesnake]

Thanks for the replies.

My saw came with those dawgs, I didn’t put them on. It was a slightly used saw and I believe those are 661 dawgs.

I generally stick with the smaller dawgs. Get more bar that way, it’s like trimming the bushes around your tree.

.404 is being used to keep an edge longer, no other reason. Pulls it very well until it I dawg it in and lever on it. Other saws will lug down a lot more than this one. You can audibly hear the saw revving quite a bit. Would be nice to swap out the clutch for one with more surface area.

Maybe a stock dawg will help me be able to handle it more by not grabbing as much. The big ones grab, cut slows, you dawg I and then stall the chain. There’s something to the logic of it all.

My usual setup is a 25” lite bar in 3/8 for the saw. It’s this combo of 404 x 28 with the big dawgs that just made the prior issue worse. It slipped with the 3/8 as well.

Ah the old trimming the bush to get more bar trick.

 

[Stump Shot]

Couple years ago I had a mini winter gtg. Took @nixon ’s new stock 462R out of the box and and mounted a 28” bar with a regular round ground chain off my grinder at 55/25/0 and gauges at .028”, my normal setup. No one here could get it to cut a 28” frozen beech log. Being sharp, the chain pulled the lightweight powerhead into the log and would bog as soon as the dogs hit. Normally you’d hold the saw back off the dogs until the bar is buried and then it’ll cut ok but the combination of frozen wood, sharp chain, and lightweight powerhead made it nearly impossible. A 500 with small dogs and 7900’s with the same bar and chain had no problem.

Had same issue with a chunk of hard maple...

 

[pbillyi69]

copy i understand now more betterer lol

 

[drf256]

Anyone know if a standard inner dawg will bolt up to the saw? The standard OEM dawg that the 026-046 came with?

I have a bunch of those, and judging from Ryan’s pic I bet they should.

 

[sawmikaze]

Anyone know if a standard inner dawg will bolt up to the saw? The standard OEM dawg that the 026-046 came with?

I have a bunch of those, and judging from Ryan’s pic I bet they should.

If you want a smaller set than what I use go to your dealer and order the smaller inner dawg that came on the half wrap model and then order this to match it :

 

[sawmikaze]

Ah the old trimming the bush to get more bar trick.

My dad always told me if a girl ever told me I had a small dick to just say it was my big legs, an illusion.

 

[Dolkitafreak]

Couple years ago I had a mini winter gtg. Took @nixon ’s new stock 462R out of the box and and mounted a 28” bar with a regular round ground chain off my grinder at 55/25/0 and gauges at .028”, my normal setup. No one here could get it to cut a 28” frozen beech log. Being sharp, the chain pulled the lightweight powerhead into the log and would bog as soon as the dogs hit. Normally you’d hold the saw back off the dogs until the bar is buried and then it’ll cut ok but the combination of frozen wood, sharp chain, and lightweight powerhead made it nearly impossible. A 500 with small dogs and 7900’s with the same bar and chain had no problem.

Like you said there’s lots of factors contributing to it, I think part of it is such a light saw, one tooth grabbing hard in the wood is gonna suck a 12 pound saw into the wood harder than a 16 pound saw, I also think for OP .404 is contributing. .404 self feeds like crazy, I’d probably just make a slider instead of a dog, bet it still feeds nice without digging in.

I almost wonder if one could knurl clutch shoes for a better bite, or maybe the knurls would hold sawdust and oil and suck more, who knows. Clutch shoes are probably also harder than hell.

 

[sawmikaze]

Anyone know if a standard inner dawg will bolt up to the saw? The standard OEM dawg that the 026-046 came with?

I have a bunch of those, and judging from Ryan’s pic I bet they should.

I have a set if you want them.

 

[huskihl]

I bet it pulls 28” .404 fine with the small factory spikes.

Same bolt pattern as the 044-066 types. It’s not like the 046-461

 

[Nutball]

I imagine some of it has to do with how low and far out the bottom spike is as others have mentioned which makes the saw lever itself against the pull of the chain. The opposite would happen if a stub was catching the top spike causing the saw to lever up out of the cut as the chain pulls the spike into the wood. Maybe shrink that bottom spike or remove it. When testing my 395xp I ported, I had a hard time loading it in 20" ash with an aggressive full skip 3/8 on a 8t rim that would easily stall a 572 in white pine with a 7t rim. I tried a nuudle cut to bury the 36" bar in ash, and it still had plenty of power. But, when I went to make another noodle cut and started with the bottom spike way down on the end of the log, it would easily jam the 395 to a stop in just a few inches of corner wood.

I have filed the clutch springs on a chinese kit saw to bring down the engagement rpm to reduce slip. It would be nice to know if wider shoes will fit that clutch hub. Can they be welded and ground wider?

 

[pwheel]

...Maybe a stock dawg... My usual setup is a 25” lite bar in 3/8 for the saw...

This^^^. Take what the saw gives you. Compared to my go-to stock 461 w/25" ES bar & 3/8" RS chain (no slouch), a ported 462 with the above setup will be faster, lighter, & more maneuverable; an all-purpose speed saw.

 

[whitesnake]

My dad always told me if a girl ever told me I had a small dick to just say it was my big legs, an illusion.

Lol…I just tell them…it’s not long but it sure is skinny!! Then they get all confused.