372xp carburetor ?

[MG porting]

Question about the Duke's 372xp replacement carburetor has anyone tried one thinking about getting one I'm tired of farting around with the carb my saw came with it idols nice but constantly fitting a ded spot with the carb so I've rebuilt it and charged tank vent and the ded spot still present especially if I hold the throttle at a length of time at quarter throttle or half throttle and if I pin the throttle at full or try to it'll just have a dead spot and bog for a second or two have to lift throttle and blip it a couple times for it to clear out so my guess it's something to do with the carb so thinking about ordering the Duke's replacement carb just curious if anyone has tried his carb??

 

[MG porting]

I ordered one I guess I'll be letting everyone know how it works out.

 

[Bjorn]

I have this one, https://www.farmertec.com/Genuine-W...372XP-Chiansaw-OEM-503-28-18-04-p1078693.html working good. The only carb from the Dukes that I have is a 390 also good.

 

[MG porting]

 

[MG porting]

It's here looks good I'll probably put it in the saw this evening I also got new crank seals from the Duke's but doubt it needs them vac test doesn't seem to show anything bad with them but I've been fooled before on that so just in case I got them. Carb definitely made by someone else than the carb that came on the saw so fingers crossed.

 

[MG porting]

So I put the Duke's carb in today and now the saw is worse so put the other carb back on and all tho it runs better but I went ahead and instead of pressure vac test I hit every possible place that there could be a vac leak well sure as marbles in a head light there was a little air leak on the flywheel side transfer and crank seal on PTO side Bearing is good so it's just got cheap hard farmer tech seals so I'm just going to replace both. Cylinder is back on resealed better this time plus I didn't torque the cylinder down super tight because it flipped cold in that there garage I'll torque it down tomorrow morning finish the rest tomorrow and put the Duke's carb back on give it another try goes to show you can't always trust the pressure vac test sometimes a squirt of carb cleaner will give you better results in finding a damn air leak. FYI I'm one hundred percent guilty of the cylinder base leak when I put the new piston in I believe when I put the cylinder back on when I slid the ring compressor out of the way it must of touched the case and wiped some of the Altra Gray off so this time I put some on both the cylinder and case so I'll be more careful next time.

 

[cuinrearview]

Get the jug slid on just past the rings and then tilt it out of the way and apply sealant. Standing it on the intake end, then on the exhaust end to hit the base and the case one half at a time. Eliminates trying to get a ring compressor and fingers in there with wet sealant.

 

[Ketchup]

I have this one, https://www.farmertec.com/Genuine-W...372XP-Chiansaw-OEM-503-28-18-04-p1078693.html working good. The only carb from the Dukes that I have is a 390 also good.

The walbro carbs from FT seem to be OEM or as good. Get ‘em while they last!

Get the jug slid on just past the rings and then tilt it out of the way and apply sealant. Standing it on the intake end, then on the exhaust end to hit the base and the case one half at a time. Eliminates trying to get a ring compressor and fingers in there with wet sealant.

^Exactly this.

Bog mid throttle is almost always an air leak, especially when weak in the cut. I just had one with the same symptoms that turned out to be freeporting on the side of the exhaust port.

 

[MG porting]

The walbro carbs from FT seem to be OEM or as good. Get ‘em while they last!



^Exactly this.

Bog mid throttle is almost always an air leak, especially when weak in the cut. I just had one with the same symptoms that turned out to be freeporting on the side of the exhaust port.

I got it back together with new crank seals and cylinder resealed now the damn thing at first start will idle high and if you hit the gas it will bog but if you keep blipping the throttle a few times the bog will go away and idle down and run normal from there on and at full throttle in and out of cut is all good so still scratching my head on this one.

 

[MG porting]

Get the jug slid on just past the rings and then tilt it out of the way and apply sealant. Standing it on the intake end, then on the exhaust end to hit the base and the case one half at a time. Eliminates trying to get a ring compressor and fingers in there with wet sealant.

Definitely a good idea if or when I take this jug back off.

 

[Ketchup]

I got it back together with new crank seals and cylinder resealed now the damn thing at first start will idle high and if you hit the gas it will bog but if you keep blipping the throttle a few times the bog will go away and idle down and run normal from there on and at full throttle in and out of cut is all good so still scratching my head on this one.

It might break in.
Did you pressure/vac test after reassembly? Do you have the super thin O-ring under the top hat?

 

[MG porting]

It might break in.
Did you pressure/vac test after reassembly? Do you have the super thin O-ring under the top hat?

Yes and yes I've yet to put the Duke's carb back on but tomorrow it's going back in but today I had a chance to run the saw with the old carb it seam to be fin carb is set 2,760 idle one full turn out Low side high side set about one full turn 13,760 ish anything above 13,850 it's no more 4 stroking so I'll leave it this way with the ol carb tomorrow I'll see what the Duke's carb does and see if it improves or not. With the old carb as it is right now I can sit the saw down and leave it idle all day long if I had to and pick it up and get back to work so hopefully it will be that way with the Duke's carb the bog is not there with the old carb now so maybe my old tune was a bit off but the outside temp was a bit warmer today so maybe a combo of both heck maybe the butterflys and unicorns paid a visit last night when I was sleeping don't know but I do know she runs strong when it's in wood.

 

[MG porting]

Well I put the Duke's carb back in and got it to tune but just wasn't quite right this carb is definitely jetted bigger than the old carb that came with the saw might have to figure something out to change that but yet again I found another flipping air leak and I should have caught it when I first got the saw the flipping intake boot has a flaw from how they molded it so it doesn't quite seal up correctly to the carb squirt some carb cleaner around where the carb and intake boot meat and of course she stalled right away so just ordered a new intake boot today hopefully the new one doesn't have the same flaw. Funny thing is I can tune the carb that came with the saw to over come the leak way better than the Duke's carb not sure if his carb is just more sensitive or if it's got something else going on with it I'm not giving up on it just yet tho we'll see how it acts with the new intake boot then go from there.

 

[Ketchup]

Yep. Pressure test 3 times and it still isn’t right. I’ve been there. That’s why I say middle bog is almost always an air leak. Hopefully that’s the last one.

 

[Woodwackr]

Why bother with the Chinese carb when you seem to have the oe working?
Also, try opening up the lo screw a bit and see if response gets better.

 

[Dolkitafreak]

Well I put the Duke's carb back in and got it to tune but just wasn't quite right this carb is definitely jetted bigger than the old carb that came with the saw might have to figure something out to change that but yet again I found another flipping air leak and I should have caught it when I first got the saw the flipping intake boot has a flaw from how they molded it so it doesn't quite seal up correctly to the carb squirt some carb cleaner around where the carb and intake boot meat and of course she stalled right away so just ordered a new intake boot today hopefully the new one doesn't have the same flaw. Funny thing is I can tune the carb that came with the saw to over come the leak way better than the Duke's carb not sure if his carb is just more sensitive or if it's got something else going on with it I'm not giving up on it just yet tho we'll see how it acts with the new intake boot then go from there.View attachment 450973

Swap that impulse line too, just waiting to fail. Echo line is the way!

 

[MG porting]

Swap that impulse line too, just waiting to fail. Echo line is the way!

It's new line I'm not worried about it I just put it on to eliminate the crap hose that they put on the saw I will be replacing it with OEM.

 

[MG porting]

Why bother with the Chinese carb when you seem to have the oe working?
Also, try opening up the lo screw a bit and see if response gets better.

The carb that the saw came with is clone so not OEM I've tried low setting change nothing ones I get the new intake boot I'll pull both carbs down and clean them even tho they both new but who knows there could still be crap in them the intake boot should be here by the end of the week maybe at the latest Monday right now I'm running my other saw that's a little tamer than this one. Lol

 

[Woodwackr]

The carb that the saw came with is clone so not OEM I've tried low setting change nothing ones I get the new intake boot I'll pull both carbs down and clean them even tho they both new but who knows there could still be crap in them the intake boot should be here by the end of the week maybe at the latest Monday right now I'm running my other saw that's a little tamer than this one. Lol

Ah, didn’t see that. China carbs are hit and miss.

 

[Bjorn]

https://www.arboristsite.com/threads/zama-carb-mod-cliff-note-version.275905/ This works good, and easy to Modify