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HELP! 372 xtorq issues

StihlEchoingHusky

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I apologize! this one is a longer read. I'm pretty frustrated with this...

I feel as for the xtorq is *s-word. Don't get me wrong when they are operating correctly they are one of my favorites. It's a love hate relationship for me. This issue has extended across 3 saws now.
the owner bought it from someone who had bought it from a dealer but never ran it. It never saw wood and sat on a bench for years. He couldn't get it to run right (idle was all over the place) and since it was waaayy past warranty he brought it to me. This was apparently after having a local shop try to get it going. I went through the saw pressure and vacum tested everything, found no leaks. Even after warming it up. still no leaks! I Went through the carburetor and everything was set at the right spot and height the diaphragm and valves were in perfect condition. Frustrated I bought a new carburetor. Going from 1st gen rwj4 to a rwj4-b. Which fixed the issue. The second one was mine. ( Not my first xtorq though this was just problem saw 2) I Was having same issue. At that time I didn't have the time to work on it. I was too busy with other people's equipment. One day A customer traded me a OE for it. (Yes I thought the same thing! Are you crazy? Lol) The OE needed new crank seals and that was it! I Love the hell out of that saw and I run it daily no issues. I've ported it as well so it's been disassembled a decent amount and then reassembled by me. The guy changed the xtorq carburetor and it ran fine.

Fast forward to problem xtorq #3. I went a different route on this one. You could technically call it a OEM "kit saw".(well should i say it's 90% OEM) This one I acquired part by part. All new OEM parts. (In the end I spent $700). There is 3 aftermarket parts in/on this saw. Which is, the 660 handle that I made fit, crank bearings and the muffler. Ive rebuilt/repaired and or in most cases ported a good amount OEs, 365 special's 371's and 372s (currently have a 371 on my bench) all have no issues. I wouldn't say I'm a pro by any means but I'm definitely not a noob with 3 series saws. When I assembled this xtorq I had a printed out service manual next to me. (I am currently teaching someone how to wrench on saws. He did a holzfforma kit saw while I did mine) Assembled the saw following the service manual.No leaks anywhere.........
I had a similar issue! The difference was Once warm it would idle all over creation... So I thought maybe the seals had a tiny leak that only exposed when hot. So i tested the case in a 5 gallon bucket of water. Nothing! even when spinning the crank. There was no shark bait who ha ha! (Bubbles🤣) I also tested the carburetor by dunking in water. Nothing! ( Metering Lever was set at the walbro W tools height.) I checked to see if there was up and down play on the crank bearings none. Fuel tank is new with new fuel line and vent. It Holds pressure not vacuum so it's not a bad tank or vent. I also tried replacing the filter!! So in my frustration I bought yet again another carburetor. Going from rwj4-b to the new rwj4-c but..... This time nothing changed! Well *s-word. I bought some nachi bearings thinking maybe the plastic cages in the OEM bearings were from a bad batch and only showed itself when hot I even got new crank seals.. I'm still having the same issue!!! this crank case is brand new. which came with the OEM nsk bearings installed. I used my oven for setting the new ones In to avoid warping the bearing pockets and crank sealing surface. Any one have ideas?
 

Ketchup

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Clutch side O-ring? Pressure/vac fuel line? Obstructed pulse? Bad wires? Oiler bolts? Cracked case or jug? Freeporting piston? Sticky throttle cable?

Pressure/vac doesn’t always reveal the leak. Even when you dunk it. Sometimes you have to triple check everything.
 

Duce

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I apologize! this one is a longer read. I'm pretty frustrated with this...

I feel as for the xtorq is *s-word. Don't get me wrong when they are operating correctly they are one of my favorites. It's a love hate relationship for me. This issue has extended across 3 saws now.
the owner bought it from someone who had bought it from a dealer but never ran it. It never saw wood and sat on a bench for years. He couldn't get it to run right (idle was all over the place) and since it was waaayy past warranty he brought it to me. This was apparently after having a local shop try to get it going. I went through the saw pressure and vacum tested everything, found no leaks. Even after warming it up. still no leaks! I Went through the carburetor and everything was set at the right spot and height the diaphragm and valves were in perfect condition. Frustrated I bought a new carburetor. Going from 1st gen rwj4 to a rwj4-b. Which fixed the issue. The second one was mine. ( Not my first xtorq though this was just problem saw 2) I Was having same issue. At that time I didn't have the time to work on it. I was too busy with other people's equipment. One day A customer traded me a OE for it. (Yes I thought the same thing! Are you crazy? Lol) The OE needed new crank seals and that was it! I Love the hell out of that saw and I run it daily no issues. I've ported it as well so it's been disassembled a decent amount and then reassembled by me. The guy changed the xtorq carburetor and it ran fine.

Fast forward to problem xtorq #3. I went a different route on this one. You could technically call it a OEM "kit saw".(well should i say it's 90% OEM) This one I acquired part by part. All new OEM parts. (In the end I spent $700). There is 3 aftermarket parts in/on this saw. Which is, the 660 handle that I made fit, crank bearings and the muffler. Ive rebuilt/repaired and or in most cases ported a good amount OEs, 365 special's 371's and 372s (currently have a 371 on my bench) all have no issues. I wouldn't say I'm a pro by any means but I'm definitely not a noob with 3 series saws. When I assembled this xtorq I had a printed out service manual next to me. (I am currently teaching someone how to wrench on saws. He did a holzfforma kit saw while I did mine) Assembled the saw following the service manual.No leaks anywhere.........
I had a similar issue! The difference was Once warm it would idle all over creation... So I thought maybe the seals had a tiny leak that only exposed when hot. So i tested the case in a 5 gallon bucket of water. Nothing! even when spinning the crank. There was no shark bait who ha ha! (Bubbles🤣) I also tested the carburetor by dunking in water. Nothing! ( Metering Lever was set at the walbro W tools height.) I checked to see if there was up and down play on the crank bearings none. Fuel tank is new with new fuel line and vent. It Holds pressure not vacuum so it's not a bad tank or vent. I also tried replacing the filter!! So in my frustration I bought yet again another carburetor. Going from rwj4-b to the new rwj4-c but..... This time nothing changed! Well *s-word. I bought some nachi bearings thinking maybe the plastic cages in the OEM bearings were from a bad batch and only showed itself when hot I even got new crank seals.. I'm still having the same issue!!! this crank case is brand new. which came with the OEM nsk bearings installed. I used my oven for setting the new ones In to avoid warping the bearing pockets and crank sealing surface. Any one have ideas?
Are you saying tank holds pressure? Why, that tank is open to air though vent.
 

dangerousatom

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-If you have another of the same saw start swapping parts one at a time, carb, coil, flywheel, ect until you find the culprit.

-Could be the jet has a lil bit of persistent dirt or something just inside. Give carb a long soak in an ultrasonic cleaner with the flammable type parts cleaner.

-When you pressure tested was it with the carb on the cylinder? It could be a bad spot in the boot or mating surface.

:icon_popcorn: Keep Us posted🤞
 

Outback

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Word, the boot to carb surface can deform when over tightened. Spray it with your choice of petro chemicals while its idling and see if it changes rpm. Super common 372 minor air leak location.
 

RCBS

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I thought he said a new carb fixed the two that had sat and were running poorly. I may have missed it though, that was a lot.

Just a random spitball. Walker's posted a vid about it not too long ago 'erratic running and idle problems due to pooling'. My 2015 550xp had one of the rubber boot holes misaligned slightly from factory.
 

StihlEchoingHusky

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-If you have another of the same saw start swapping parts one at a time, carb, coil, flywheel, ect until you find the culprit.

-Could be the jet has a lil bit of persistent dirt or something just inside. Give carb a long soak in an ultrasonic cleaner with the flammable type parts cleaner.

-When you pressure tested was it with the carb on the cylinder? It could be a bad spot in the boot or mating surface.

:icon_popcorn: Keep Us posted🤞
I've tried 3 carburetors' two authentic 1 aftermarket,3 carburetor flanges same thing 2 authentic 1 was a metal farmer tech, 4 intake boots 3 authentic, 1 being for colder conditions and 1 was new West from wolf Creek, 2 air filter holders 1 standard 1 heavy duty, 2 sets of crank seals 1 Hyway 1 OEM (currently installed) both times I used the little oring even though I've never needed one in the past. ( On the 2nd install I Used the OEM seal drivers, I normally use a scrench which I've never had any issues) I've tried 3 coils 2 were unlimited coils (black) 1 was off of a 365special 1 brand new, the 1 limited (blue) was also new. Case gaskets twice. 1st one I followed the service manual and made wet with oil, the second a light coat of aviation gasket sealer! Base gasket or not , done both. 2 cylinders 1 cross performance the current is OEM. I've tried resealing the oiler bolts a few times with this last time I got brand new bolts for it. I've tried NGK bpmr6a,bpmr7a, whatever echo uses byma or some *s-word, also an e3 and a Oregon, I've played with air gaps on both coil and plug I've set to recommended and larger and smaller air gaps.(.25-.30-.35) Tuning the Carburetor, I screwed in both in untill lightly seated then back out a full turn on each. Fire up the saw let it warm up then turn the idle speed screw in untill the chain just starts to move.(I've also skipped this part, by that I mean making the chain spin ) On the L turned in and out untill It reaches peak rpm (makes that sound that kinda goes wub wub sorry bad description but you know what I mean. like it's studdering) once I've found the middle of that peak idle rpm I turn in back about 1/8 to 1/4 turns untill rpm just starts to drop. Then high side I turn in untill that 4 stroke sound at WOT disappears, then back (richening) by about the same 1/8 or 1/4 turns. It 4 Strokes out of wood and cleans up in wood.. from there I have tried fine tuning the low screw. I've done it with or without adjusting the idle speed screw. I've completely rebuilt multiple OE saws and I've not had this problem... Me and xtorq just don't get along I guess...
 

Reloaderguy

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I've tried 3 carburetors' two authentic 1 aftermarket,3 carburetor flanges same thing 2 authentic 1 was a metal farmer tech, 4 intake boots 3 authentic, 1 being for colder conditions and 1 was new West from wolf Creek, 2 air filter holders 1 standard 1 heavy duty, 2 sets of crank seals 1 Hyway 1 OEM (currently installed) both times I used the little oring even though I've never needed one in the past. ( On the 2nd install I Used the OEM seal drivers, I normally use a scrench which I've never had any issues) I've tried 3 coils 2 were unlimited coils (black) 1 was off of a 365special 1 brand new, the 1 limited (blue) was also new. Case gaskets twice. 1st one I followed the service manual and made wet with oil, the second a light coat of aviation gasket sealer! Base gasket or not , done both. 2 cylinders 1 cross performance the current is OEM. I've tried resealing the oiler bolts a few times with this last time I got brand new bolts for it. I've tried NGK bpmr6a,bpmr7a, whatever echo uses byma or some *s-word, also an e3 and a Oregon, I've played with air gaps on both coil and plug I've set to recommended and larger and smaller air gaps.(.25-.30-.35) Tuning the Carburetor, I screwed in both in untill lightly seated then back out a full turn on each. Fire up the saw let it warm up then turn the idle speed screw in untill the chain just starts to move.(I've also skipped this part, by that I mean making the chain spin ) On the L turned in and out untill It reaches peak rpm (makes that sound that kinda goes wub wub sorry bad description but you know what I mean. like it's studdering) once I've found the middle of that peak idle rpm I turn in back about 1/8 to 1/4 turns untill rpm just starts to drop. Then high side I turn in untill that 4 stroke sound at WOT disappears, then back (richening) by about the same 1/8 or 1/4 turns. It 4 Strokes out of wood and cleans up in wood.. from there I have tried fine tuning the low screw. I've done it with or without adjusting the idle speed screw. I've completely rebuilt multiple OE saws and I've not had this problem... Me and xtorq just don't get along I guess...
Have you tried swapping it with a new saw?
 

Ketchup

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So does the idle wander immediately or only after you have revved up a few times? Is it wandering continuously or just a weird return to idle? Any stumbling on throttle-up?
 
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