359 Recipe build critique

[Kiwioilboiler]

Hi folks,

This hobby is really taking hold, not only am i somewhat impatiently waiting my new-to-me 372, but i also won a rough but running 359 last night in a local auction. (My name is Adam and I am a chainsawaholic...)

Anyhow, the idea with the 359 is to have a crack at some engine internal mods myself as it doesn't owe me a lot in money terms and nothing in sentimental ones.

I came across the below link in a Lougle search and was wondering if some of you would be so kind as to critique the recipe for me.

Please note all credit should go to the original author, it is not my work but I don't see much point in re-inventing the wheel if it represents an effective upgrade path. My desire would be for a reliable strong saw that could be used by any half decent individual. The decoy saw if you will.

Many thanks, Adam.

https://arbtalk.co.uk/forums/topic/109180-husqvarna-359-porting/

 

[Kiwioilboiler]

Anyone have any idea what stock compression number might be on an '02 359?
This saw is in great internal shape but i'd like a baseline to compare to before i do a ring only or piston.

 

[Czed]

@beaglebriar @Stump Shot
Any advice i only rebuilt those never modded them.

 

[Stump Shot]

On ring wear, let a measurement with a feeler gauge with the ring in the bore be your guide rather than compression alone which can be quite subjective.
As far as the whole thing goes I would recommend taking a more beginner like approach, one thought that comes to mind is a 357 top end on your 359 bottom. With a muffler mod this make for a fairly sporty saw that still has some torque.
There's no real right or wrong here to a certain extant, however to try and do everything all at once is a bit of a challenge, with so many facets of each modification that have to fit with each other to work properly. Your next project(there will be the next one trust me) go further into another new to you mod and so on, this way you will actually learn how and why each thing you do works(or doesn't) rather than try and do it all at once not learning(truly) about anything. That would be my recommendation.

 

[Kiwioilboiler]

@Stump Shot Thank you for direction. and @Czed for reviving thread.

A quick search tends to suggest around 10 thou ring end gap measured at the top of the bore would be normalish, 20 thou getting a bit wide? Check piston for damage and 'rock' in the bore too obviously.

As to the saw mod path, roger that. Don't run before you can walk yeah.

Cheers, Adam.

 

[beaglebriar]

Give that 359 a good once over. Make sure the intake clamp is metal. For the muff mod go behind the baffle and add a deflector there, lots of room on the clutch side. Trim the limiters on the carb and base gasket delete it. That's a good starting point for mods.

The 359 is a fantastic little saw, I kinda prefer it over the 357.


Edit: also make sure it isn't auto decomp. I'm not positive the 359 ever came with that setup but 357's did and it sucks.

 

[Johnmn]

I have a 2159, same as your 359 just red and black. Mine has a muffler mod, base gasket delete and a timing advance. The saw really needs nothing more, it is a good firewood saw with that setup

 

[woodfarmer]

Give that 359 a good once over. Make sure the intake clamp is metal. For the muff mod go behind the baffle and add a deflector there, lots of room on the clutch side. Trim the limiters on the carb and base gasket delete it. That's a good starting point for mods.

The 359 is a fantastic little saw, I kinda prefer it over the 357.


Edit: also make sure it isn't auto decomp. I'm not positive the 359 ever came with that setup but 357's did and it sucks.

What is auto decomp? I just picked up this 2156 and there is a plug in the decomp hole and a vent hose or something running to it.

 

[beaglebriar]

View attachment 245378
What is auto decomp? I just picked up this 2156 and there is a plug in the decomp hole and a vent hose or something running to it.

Looks like a banjo bolt with a hose running from where that plug is to a barb that's sticking out of the transfer (lower right rear of the cylinder). If it has been blocked off you're good of not it should be done before you run that saw.

 

[cuinrearview]

Wow that's a looker @woodfarmer !

 

[Kiwioilboiler]

Speaking of 3 series decomp's, check out this local auction and my (addel) question...... @markds2 for this rocket scientist.

 

[markds2]

Speaking of 3 series decomp's, check out this local auction and my (addel) question...... @markds2 for this rocket scientist.

Whaaaaaaat??? you gotta be kidding!!!

 

[Kiwioilboiler]

Whaaaaaaat??? you gotta be kidding!!!

I had a "thanks very much, and maybe lay off whatever you are smoking" reply all typed, but in the end just backspaced and went about my own business. Professional Factory ported air leak owners don't need advice.

 

[woodfarmer]

My bad, that’s my 2171. I’ll have to find the 2156 picture. So how exactly does the auto decomp work?

Wow that's a looker @woodfarmer !

 

[cuinrearview]

View attachment 245413 My bad, that’s my 2171. I’ll have to find the 2156 picture. So how exactly does the auto decomp work?

There is a barb in the transfer tunnel connected to the other end of that hose. It uses a pulse, much like the fuel pump, to open the decomp valve. Once running it closes like a regular decomp button. There are multiple points that can fail in the system and cause an air leak. Husqvarna offered a kit to eliminate the system with a standard decomp button with a small rubber cap and clamp for the barb in the transfer. I remove the barb, tap the hole, and add a little JB Weld with a machine screw. Then you can use a traditional decomp button or plug on the upper cylinder. There are a few ways to eliminate it, but in my opinion it must be addressed.

 

[woodfarmer]

Why do you think Husky went to all that trouble to design this in the first place? I just picked this saw up, didn’t know too much about the model. The 2171 has the plug in the decomp, bugger to start in the winter, it was a west coast saw. It may go back that way. Not really sure why I always wanted a full wrap handle, they’re not conducive to hardwood felling and the dogs are a bit too big, I’d like them in between stock and west coast.

 

[cuinrearview]

Why do you think Husky went to all that trouble to design this in the first place? I just picked this saw up, didn’t know too much about the model. The 2171 has the plug in the decomp, bugger to start in the winter, it was a west coast saw. It may go back that way. Not really sure why I always wanted a full wrap handle, they’re not conducive to hardwood felling and the dogs are a bit too big, I’d like them in between stock and west coast.

It probably has a plastic intake clamp too that you can eliminate along with the base gasket all in an evening when you do the decomp.

 

[Kiwioilboiler]

I made some time for this saw project today.

Cleaned up carbon out of exhaust port with emery paper on an air die grinder.

Shaped sharp cylinder transfer blocking edges where the factory had roughly applied a radius or left a sharp daggy edge.

Buffed carbon off piston top and measured no-gasket squish, which was 0.6mm (23ish thou) at all four piston corners.

Just waiting on Husq NZ for a piston ring and it'll be back together. Pretty happy with the cylinder given my limited tools: Clunky die grinder, random Dremel copy bits, files and emery paper, sticks and fingers!

Pic 1 is the rough transfer edge as per factory.

 

[Kiwioilboiler]

For the one or three followers of this thread I have a bit of an update.

Ring finally came in and I grabbed a 395 intake clamp too.

Clipped and shaped plastic clamp of death away until 395 clamp fitted just right. Took much longer to do than type.

Glued cylinder down with Hylomar Universal Blue and fitted my recently completed modded muffler. Killed me to wait overnight for the Hylomar to cure but I'd waited a month already.

Fitted rest of saw components today including a new rim sprocket and chain brake handle. Pulled 140psi, 20 more than before mods. Fired right up.

Very happy. Lovely tone, can't wait to put it to some work.

Thanks to all for advice and help

 

[Wagnerwerks]

Looks great