3-series huskies

[chilipeppermaniac]

Mark 2 is heavier, and harder to manoeuvre. i have used a Mark 2 one hour. than i was happy to have a Mark1. For me, the Mark 2 is a downgrade to the first version of the 550. IMHO

Woodwater, How much total weight are both and what length bar were you using?

Not being a smartazz, just getting an idea for saws I never picked up or used before.

 

[Woodwater]

I don't know the total weight. But one i know, the Mark 2 ist 200 Grams heavier and has a high top. I have used 15" bar for limbing. i can do fast limbing, and i am faster with the Mark 1.

 

[Outback]

Do the mk1 550's have the performance air leak design of the mk1 562's?

 

[Woodwater]

Never Seen an Air leak on the 550 Mark 1. Only a few had a Problem with the carburator. Where the Computer says Air leak, but the Problem was the Software that tuned the carburator not right and make them too lean on high rev.

..if the software is not programmed correctly, you will not get the correct output from the computer.

 

[ZERO]

346 ported by @Mastermind bough from Dan @AlfA01 my Parthenon queen.
Square cut chain, aggressive top plate, aggressive raker, no bore cuts, below the soft husky setting.
No problems what so ever, pulling nice soft fibers, no bogging, plenty of power.
Carb low jet set fatter, idle set higher non clutch engaging.
Starts on 1st pull stone cold, restarts 1st pull mild warn to blistering hot.
Stone cold reliable, these were logs that my 7 ton electric splitter did not want to take.
Lots of knots, rejects from the local mill.

 

[chipper1]

Mark 2 is heavier, and harder to manoeuvre. i have used a Mark 2 one hour. than i was happy to have a Mark1. For me, the Mark 2 is a downgrade to the first version of the 550. IMHO

Husky after yrs of getting everything just right on the 550mk1, "let's just scrap the whole thing and start with a heavier design" .
The mk2 is a great firewood saw, but it sucks as a limbing saw after running the mk1.

 

[chilipeppermaniac]

Husky after yrs of getting everything just right on the 550mk1, "let's just scrap the whole thing and start with a heavier design" .
The mk2 is a great firewood saw, but it sucks as a limbing saw after running the mk1.

chipper1, when you say limbing saw, do you mean moreso the limbing that takes place after tops and tree is felled vs. limbing when a climber is up in a tree like with a T540 or 201T etc?

 

[chipper1]

chipper1, when you say limbing saw, do you mean moreso the limbing that takes place after tops and tree is felled.

This.

 

[chilipeppermaniac]

This.

Thanks for your understanding of me as I may ask newb questions I might not usually ask. In acquiring a whole new maker of saw, it usually takes some learning curve time to get used to how they work, how they are put together, and the differences in Models, Vintages, Old school vs new school tech, modifications and upgrades to make a saw go from good to great etc.

I am looking at this Manual to get the low down too. Should it have an IPL included, or do I need to look for that separately?



I did find this one from another seller on ebay too. So I think it answers my last question.




And this,,, Online as PDF ( i know this has likely been posted elsewhere, but I will know it is here in the 3 series.)

HUSQVARNA 394XP OPERATOR'S MANUAL Pdf Download

View and Download Husqvarna 394XP operator's manual online. Husqvarna Chain Saw Operator's Manual. 394XP chainsaw pdf manual download.

www.manualslib.com

 

[husqvarnaxpman]

@Armedandhammered I have a few NOS 346XP'S. I probably could let one go.

 

[HumBurner]

@Armedandhammered I have a few NOS 346XP'S. I probably could let one go.

You selling the heated model?

 

[Woodwater]

beauty's!

 

[trooney]

God, you people and your heavy saws. The mk2 is 200g heavier than the mk1. Its all boils down to what I need it for. Will I pick up my 394 to buck 16" wood? Hell no. But I'll pick up my 261 or 550mk2 to cut it. I've got plenty of limbing saws, one hand or 2 hand. The jury's out on the mk2 as far as speed, but its running an 18. As far as heavy, all I can say is its lighter than 1/2 of the saws I own. I still have a 22" white oak to cut up, I'll chime in on what I think about its performance because I'll probably buck it all with my 550mk2.

 

[chilipeppermaniac]

God, you people and your heavy saws. The mk2 is 200g heavier than the mk1. Its all boils down to what I need it for. Will I pick up my 394 to buck 16" wood? Hell no. But I'll pick up my 261 or 550mk2 to cut it. I've got plenty of limbing saws, one hand or 2 hand. The jury's out on the mk2 as far as speed, but its running an 18. As far as heavy, all I can say is its lighter than 1/2 of the saws I own. I still have a 22" white oak to cut up, I'll chime in on what I think about its performance because I'll probably buck it all with my 550mk2.

trooney, I have saws for purposes. just like I have hammers, wrenches, sockets, nail guns, trucks, cars, skid steer, etc as I am sure you do too.

My main saw for 30 years has been my 1994 Stihl 026. My next one was and is an Echo CS3000, ( Obviously not a Heavy SAW)
When I wanted to increase my felling vs limbing and firewood jobs, I picked up an 044 and a second 026.

Then came milling and for this I picked up a MS660 which can obviously handle long bars for felling, bucking and milling. Also my main milling saws are my 3- Stihl 1111 series saws. An 051 and 2-075's.
As time went on, I added my MS261, 193 and 201TC. and now the Husq 394 to compliment my 660.

I wasn't necessarily looking to get a 394 as my first Husky saw, but a good deal from a good seller came up, and that is just how the chips fell.

 

[trooney]

trooney, I have saws for purposes. just like I have hammers, wrenches, sockets, nail guns, trucks, cars, skid steer, etc as I am sure you do too.

My main saw for 30 years has been my 1994 Stihl 026. My next one was and is an Echo CS3000, ( Obviously not a Heavy SAW)
When I wanted to increase my felling vs limbing and firewood jobs, I picked up an 044 and a second 026.

Then came milling and for this I picked up a MS660 which can obviously handle long bars for felling, bucking and milling. Also my main milling saws are my 3- Stihl 1111 series saws. An 051 and 2-075's.
As time went on, I added my MS261, 193 and 201TC. and now the Husq 394 to compliment my 660.

I wasn't necessarily looking to get a 394 as my first Husky saw, but a good deal from a good seller came up, and that is just how the chips fell.

Not directed towards you in particular, just a comment that 1/2 pound makes the difference between picking up a saw and not. If it where 2 or 3, maybe. We've got the luxury of having multiple saws, but some are heavier than others that I pick up for the wood I'll be cutting.

 

[huskihl]

Not directed towards you in particular, just a comment that 1/2 pound makes the difference between picking up a saw and not. If it where 2 or 3, maybe. We've got the luxury of having multiple saws, but some are heavier than others that I pick up for the wood I'll be cutting.

Half a pound is a pretty big deal. Some guys will leave a saw at home just because it has a front tensioner instead of one on the side. Talking major pita there once per day or week

 

[chilipeppermaniac]

Not directed towards you in particular, just a comment that 1/2 pound makes the difference between picking up a saw and not. If it where 2 or 3, maybe. We've got the luxury of having multiple saws, but some are heavier than others that I pick up for the wood I'll be cutting.

trooney, no worries, I just saw the mention of 394's.
Believe me, I feel weight nowadays at 1 month shy of 60. I really like it on the occasions when my low back and legs give me 1% enough relief to work like I know I can. There is no greater feeling for me than to not feel the pain I normally live with 99% time. On the miracle days when God let's me work hard with freedom of motion, the bigger saws, full wheelbarrows, 36 foot extension ladders, and 10 foot aluminum brakes that I throw around, bring me back the my 24-30 year old days when the low back pain was more manageable. In those times, I say, " MAN , think about all I could be getting done if I didn't hurt for more good days like this one."

 

[chilipeppermaniac]

Half a pound is a pretty big deal. Some guys will leave a saw at home just because it has a front tensioner instead of one on the side. Talking major pita there once per day or week

huskihl,

As a guy who has only recently acquired front adjust saws in my 1111 series Stihls, and my 394, What is the secret that longtime users of these saws use in order to make them less objectionable?

I have come up with an idea that I may fab up a special adjusting tool other than a scrench. I always wonder about other people's work arounds on mechanical things.

 

[huskihl]

huskihl,

As a guy who has only recently acquired front adjust saws in my 1111 series Stihls, and my 394, What is the secret that longtime users of these saws used in order to make them less objectionable?

I have come up with an idea that I may fab up a special adjusting tool other than a scrench. I always wonder about other people's work arounds on mechanical things.

I was just teasing guys that have been posting in here. I could never understand how it was that big of a deal. Sure, I get the convenience of it being on the side, but for 1-2 times per day I just can’t see it as mattering a whole lot

 

[chilipeppermaniac]

I was just teasing guys that have been posting in here. I could never understand how it was that big of a deal. Sure, I get the convenience of it being on the side, but for 1-2 times per day I just can’t see it as mattering a whole lot

Yup I know.

BUT in my case, I was thinking about a good tool for those who may service and set up numerous front adjust saws every day every week etc,
I have a cool design idea or 2 for a tool that may be quite a handy addition to one's arsenal.