201t ported worth it

[hoytwayne]

I’m very new here (as a member), but I have learned so much from this group of high caliber individuals that I couldn’t resist signing up.

Question. Does a ported Stihl 201t really make a substantial difference? Can I run a longer bar? 18-20”?

I’m in a lot of trees and have been thinking about converting to a panther bar with 1/4 pitch sprocket conversion. But if porting a 201 can make a legitimate difference then I would gladly stay with 3/8 and be able to run a longer bar for “huskier” trees. I feel like there is no way a 1/4 could have the durability of 3/8. But I could be wrong.

I’m ready to learn. Learn me up.

 

[Loony661]

Welcome!

 

[hoytwayne]

Thanks bud. It’s guys like you that made me join up! Really, thanks for the welcoming feeling that this forum always gives.

 

[Loony661]

There’s quite a few arborists that frequent here. I used to climb too, but not any more. I had a 201T for that as well, and it was a good saw. I don’t have any experience with a ported one however, so someone else can chime in about that.

 

[huskihl]

Ported 201’s are faster than ported 200’s. So I’d imagine it would be worth it

 

[chiselbit]

I have a tree service and I’ve got two 201’s ported by Randy (mastermind )
I like these saws a lot, run 16” 3/8. definitely a difference from stock.

 

[Woodpecker]

Ported 201’s are faster than ported 200’s. So I’d imagine it would be worth it

This x2. I wouldn’t convert it to 1/4 though. I think .325 rsPro would be perfect on a ported 201 though. I wouldn’t hesitate to run a 16” .325 .050 RS Pro on one.

 

[sawmikaze]

I’m very new here (as a member), but I have learned so much from this group of high caliber individuals that I couldn’t resist signing up.

Question. Does a ported Stihl 201t really make a substantial difference? Can I run a longer bar? 18-20”?

I’m in a lot of trees and have been thinking about converting to a panther bar with 1/4 pitch sprocket conversion. But if porting a 201 can make a legitimate difference then I would gladly stay with 3/8 and be able to run a longer bar for “huskier” trees. I feel like there is no way a 1/4 could have the durability of 3/8. But I could be wrong.

I’m ready to learn. Learn me up.

I can't tell a muffler modded one over a ported one on a 4-5" branch, but you can definitely tell them apart chunking down bigger pieces.

I'd say it's probably worth it if you're in to it.

1/4 pitch chain on a 201 sounds silly...but that's just my opinion..I'm sure a YouTube celebrity does it though.

 

[huskihl]

I can't tell a muffler modded one over a ported one on a 4-5" branch, but you can definitely tell them apart chunking down bigger pieces.

Nice. That was our goal

 

[Stump Shot]

I do way way more @sawmikaze style mm & ta on 201's then porting them for tree guys and reports back are all good.
Positives are; I can do them without wait, cost is a biggy and absolute no need to run small chain that won't cut bigger chunks well, the 3/8 LP will do fine so no need to replace components either.
If you want more brutish power for chunking up bigger stuff, then porting may be worth the extra time and money.

 

[sawmikaze]

I do way way more @sawmikaze style mm & ta on 201's then porting them for tree guys and reports back are all good.
Positives are; I can do them without wait, cost is a biggy and absolute no need to run small chain that won't cut bigger chunks well, the 3/8 LP will do fine so no need to replace components either.
If you want more brutish power for chunking up bigger stuff, then porting may be worth the extra time and money.

I made one with a thinner base gasket and a timing advance and a muffler mod with a widened exhaust..snorts pretty good..but the one kevin did obviously has more ass.

 

[hoytwayne]

1/4 pitch chain on a 201 sounds silly...but that's just my opinion..I'm sure a YouTube celebrity does it though.

ummmm…fact. Sad? Maybe. True? Absolutely. Ha I get my info in bulk like most folks nowadays. I latched on to this forum because I’ve watched yall sort that “bulk info” into worthwhile or not a few times.

Really it boils down to weight. I would just like to be able to keep using the top handle as long as possible. I don’t want to lug the 44 or 500 up in the tree for trunk cuts on trees that I could have stayed lighter by just running a longer bar.

 

[sawmikaze]

ummmm…fact. Sad? Maybe. True? Absolutely. Ha I get my info in bulk like most folks nowadays. I latched on to this forum because I’ve watched yall sort that “bulk info” into worthwhile or not a few times.

Really it boils down to weight. I would just like to be able to keep using the top handle as long as possible. I don’t want to lug the 44 or 500 up in the tree for trunk cuts on trees that I could have stayed lighter by just running a longer bar.

Lol.

I have no desire to run a 20" bar on a top handle, I know it's a cookie cutting hit in cyber space, though..

Why don't you get a 261 or a 550 or something along those lines for an 18 or 20" bar ?

 

[Greg Newman]

My daughter at the time was 16 years old with zero saw experience and she can tell you the difference. I had at the time a mm 201t and still have my mmws 201t. She ran the mm one first then the mmws. She said the second one had alot more power she liked it better. That day was the first time she had ever even run a saw mind you and she could already tell the difference. That is coming from someone knowing nothing about ported saws. It don't get no more real than that.

 

[Woodpecker]

Lol.

I have no desire to run a 20" bar on a top handle, I know it's a cookie cutting hit in cyber space, though..

Why don't you get a 261 or a 550 or something along those lines for an 18 or 20" bar ?

Egg zacktly… you can bust down a pretty big spar with a 50cc/20” combo.

 

[MemphisMechanic]

Really it boils down to weight. I would just like to be able to keep using the top handle as long as possible. I don’t want to lug the 44 or 500 up in the tree for trunk cuts on trees that I could have stayed lighter by just running a longer bar.

I run a 16” Panther bar & chain on a ported Echo 355T when I climb.

Pros:

Reach, reach, and more reach. Zip more limbs off the trunk or leader without repositioning, or flip the saw over to back bar something on the far side of the trunk where you normally couldn’t.

Speed: 1/4 pitch absolutely cuts big wood faster. No doubt about it. But the Panther chains are the only full chisel chains without safety rakers out there. Everything else is semi chisel, safety raker, or both. Glad I bought four of them.

Balance: It behaves like a stock saw with a 12” bar on it when you’re one-handling it. No way I’d run a 3/8LP bar in this length or longer without killing my forearm muscles.

Cons:

Bar life. It’s not quite sculpted from a warm bar of chocolate, but if you’re used to quality Japanese or German made bars, you’ll notice the softness.

Sharpening. 1/4 pitch teeth are teeny. Almost need a monacle to see what your hand file is doing.

Delicacy: 1/4 pitch chain feels like jewelry, while 3/8LP feels more like a bike chain. If you get your bar pinched and rock or yank it free on the regular, this is not the chain for you.

Length: Yep. This is also a con, because you have to be that much more careful to keep the tip away from ropes, lanyards, and the ground. A 16” is nearly scraping the dirt when clipped to my harness and walking to the tree. I’ve quit walking while it hangs altogether because of this. No way I’d go longer than 16 on a climbing saw at my current skill level.

Jacob Rogers / Guilty of Treeson has been featuring Oregon’s new 38/LP narrow kerf setup. I think that I’d go that way in 16” if I rocked a 201T. my plastic-cased clamshell Echo 355T “pro” saw is a lot lighter, so it would be pretty tip-heavy. On the Stihl it would balance out great.

 

[sawmikaze]

Nice. That was our goal

 

[Ketchup]

Ported 201t does have more grunt. Depending on the port work you could probably achieve a 201t that would handle 18” 3/8lp. But I wouldn’t want it very often. I run 16” .325 nano on my ported 201t. It’s super fast and pretty easy to sharpen. I find the bar length kind of annoying though.

Most days I remove trees down with the 2511t (modded, 14” 1/4), then swap to a 261 (20” .325). I like a rear handle for blocking medium wood. Easier to control, more comfortable cut position for my wrists, more power.

I really only use a 201t if the tree has a long run of 14-16” wood. For that work, porting does keep the rpms up.

If you’re planning on removing trees and doing all the brush work with a 201t I think you will find anything beyond 16” cumbersome. But even with a 14”, the extra power is nice.

 

[MemphisMechanic]

Most days I remove trees down with the 2511t (modded, 14” 1/4), then swap to a 261 (20” .325).

That’s cheating. The 2511 weighs less than, well, a bottle of Ketchup.

Excellent summary, and post! I’m really looking forward to having a ported 026 for use in the tree.

…Someday. It’s currently a box of parts in the attic that I paid $125 for.

 

[NorcalFlyingsquirrel]

I like the 1/4 stihl chain on the modified 14" bar from the electric on a 2511. Its very smooth and fast for brushing out up to 14". I only sharpen it like once every 2 weeks and it just keeps cutting. Yes i lose a tooth every once in a while afer i hit something funky. I would love to have a 24" quarter for my 200 or 201 as they no longer have any other use. BTW i have not had carpal tunnel or tennis elbow since picking up the 2511 three years ago. Once im done with the 2511 i have them send up the 44/46 hybrid or timberwolf with a 28" elight just cause its so much fun but a 24" 201 would be money too. 024 super or 026 or a ported 261 is another very nice step up. Buy and port them all! I just cant figure out when the 036/360 362's weight is justified, but maybe i just ported them wrong.